Bowie69

Probably around 400l, if my maths are correct and they get 15mpg

Just needs to be painted in matt black and it'll be perfect for the SAS

My money would be on quality of metal. I agree I find less siezed bolts on Jap stuff, but then I dont suppose they get out in the field as often as LRs, which are bought as utility vehicles from the word go, LCs tend to be shopping carts for the first few years of their lives...

Yeah, then you get the people that remove them, but forget to get the bit that's left inside the box out

Why show pics of the Roverdrive Defender model? Series model pokes out the side, same as a Fairey: http://www.wiberg-wiberg.com/default.asp?sid=5 http://www.roverdrives.com/sx_model.html

Self amalgamating tape is great stuff, but I wouldn't us it in this situation, as it is a right pig to remove for modification/fixes. This looks pretty good, cloth bases, and should resist abrasion well: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110717123104 The other option is a non-adhesive tape, which is stuf with super glue or similar the tail ends: http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/fr/2754~PVC+harness+tape-details/

Bye bye 40bhp.....

I'd 2/3 fill with water, then weld, then empty, assuming you are welding the top of it. Did this recently, and was fine. Use a magnet on a stick to get the small particles of steel that are bound to fall in, out.

When they decided to change steel suppliers in the early 90's meaning their vehicle rusted out in half the time of earlier models.

In the rear tub is pretty common , a narrow upright one.

The computer system is structured in EXACTLY the same way the MOT Inspection Manual, and therefore any NT worth his or her salt should be able to navigate it. If it was a newly qualified NT that doesn't know their way around the Inspection Manual yet then it is somewhat understandable I suppose....

That looks... really excellent FF, what's up with you? that's at least two very helpful/non-grumpy posts you have made this week

Very unlikely if you have a digital multimeter that you will be able to see that the injector is opening or not, they open only for milliseconds at a time to squirt fuel in, especially at cranking. If you want to check for power here, the injectors are earth switched, so one of the pins should be live when ignition is on, so measure between engine block and pin and it should give you 12V+

I tend to use 1.6mm for the areas you indicate, easy enough to cut with a small grinder and a slitting disc, and can be 'formed' with just a small hammer pretty easily, even better it won't distort so much as if you use 1.0mm stuff. For stuff like body mounts and more structural areas I go up to 2mm, which is still easily formable but much, much stronger.

Sorry I can't help with the part number, but I suggest you remove the last 3 or 6 digits from the chassis number you posted, rather than broadcast it to the few rogue people out there (as this is an open forum). I think you'll need a mod to do the title line though

Drivers side longer? With the stronger/longer spring in the front drivers side, it could cause the front axle to creep under a little shortening the wheelbase...? That's without a driver of course.

3mm steel plate, enough unless you are dropping big diesel engines on it day in and out, assuming you have a wood or some other substrate Oil it with engine oil after fitting, then wipe down with a rag, stops it rusting and infecting components with rust-dust which they won't like.

On the RRC there's a plug along the inside edge of the inner wing, you may find this is the same on the Defender, it's just a small black round two pin plug about 10mm diameter.

Negative! 'Radically altered'. Not to mention the bulkhead outriggers that need adjusting to fit the new bodywork. IVA required.

Gotta admit, that is a whole lot of storage/camping space in one of them.

Good stuff Si, nice to have it in black on pale blue You mean it's IVA time, right? Because I have spoken to VOSA on this specific subject recently, and they were fine about it, just you need an IVA at £450, £150 retest fee.

With that clamp design, I think you will struggle to ensure sliding forces in the rear stays, for example, didn't just allow it to move along the chassis rail. The other thought I had about bolt fixing would be to drill, fit crush tubes and bolt it through the chassis, 6mm plate either side, with the top plate sitting tight to the chassis above it. I suppose a lot of the regs are there so they allow proper inspection of the mounts -it's easy to see a 6mm plate welded to the chassis, and easy to see the 4 M10 8.8 bolts holding it in place, not so easy to define or see how a bolted fitting should look, or whether crush tubes are present and indeed fitted properly.

If you wanted a bolt-on kit, Ashcroft do one which looks pretty effective: http://www.ashcroft-...d&productId=156 Roverdrive do a cooler for the LT230 if you want to go mad: http://lucky8llc.com/Products.aspx?ProductID=3355

Silicon sealant is both fuel and oil safe and not degraded by either.

Ah, well it could well be exactly that Still, it's all fitted now Well, it will be once I find something to bodge fit the air hose better between box and carb, but very pleased with the reduction in noise! Some pics as I promised The thing that made me go for this air box in the end, was the fact it was about 5 inches shorter than the 300TDI Defender and 200TDI Disco air boxes, not sure where to go for a longer hose, the bodginess is strong with this one at the moment.... Thanks for the pointer guys, maybe this will helps someone in the future Pete.