Bowie69

Well the sound proofing will make the biggest difference anyways, a real sponge Think you may need to loosen the aluminium strip in the door opening as well...? If not there is supposed to be two retainers in there...

For that I used copious quatities of black silicon sealant, seems to have done the job nicely, I took the floor out recently and it had sealed really well. Any builders silicon would do nicely.

Sounds to me like either your timing is WAY off or you have some plug leads the wrong way round, V8s sound nice even with open headers, I was filming this one, on MSnEDIS, for example:

Glad to hear you got it running! Sorry, but what are you trying to do with the TPS?

Is there adjustment on the actuating rod? I know there on Series vehicles, and this is pretty critical to getting the pedal to feel right.

Agreed, but with a V8, and an autobox, off road low ratio is far less important than a stinky diesel and a manual box -IMHO.

My RRC's tacho is ~ 300rpm out (too low)compared to the data displayed in MegaTune, which can only really be correct. Speedo is pretty accurate now I have 33" tyres on it For 35" tyres and an autobox I would be going for a 1.66 ratio transfer box, it's really quite important that an auto has the correct gearing to get the changes and lockup in the right place for on-road driving, 1.4 is just about perfect on 33s, 1.6 on 35s would be the same by my reckoning.

Drivers footwell can get water from the heater, depends which end is leaking -the pipes or the matrix. Normally though I would point the finger at porous metal in the footwell somewhere -near the mud flap brackets is a favourite. The plastic things that hold the carpet in are just on the back edge of the mats, very close to the seat base, pretty sure they are the same as in the back, but I can't look as I don't have any in there any more!

Personally I wouldn't go as far as remove the insulation/carpet from the tunnel, the wet rarely gets that far or causes a problem as the autobox heat is pretty good at drying it out. Remove the carpets by undoing the plastic screw things and lift out, cut the insulation along the edge of the tunnel (there is a natural fold line here and easily done with a stanley knife) and lift it out, stand it in front of the aga for a few days to dry thoroughly When cutting the insulation, be careful not to catch the EFI loom If you have permanently wet insulation/carpet then you either have a leaking heater, holes in the floor or a very wrong fascination with deep water -either way you should be able to keep it dry in there pretty easily Personally I just run with the carpet and no soundproofing nowadays, means when I do get sludge come in through the door it doesn't matter so much

On both my late 1990 and late 1991 RRCs the resistor was under the LH scuttle, prise out the traingles at the corner of the vent and then remove the grille, you should be able to see it just to the right of the hole (as you look at it). If it's not there then seems like Mr Bodgeroo has been in there, the plug you are looking for is the same colour as the one on the resistor, and can normally be found on top of the heater, which you can just about access by undoing most of the dash and lifting the top part to access it -with small hands that is I don't think that the plug you have there is the right one.... The other possibility is someone has shoved an older heater in there, anyone know of they fit?

Nige -expect to pay a lot more than that for a decent one, one of the big problems you have with LR drivetrain, especially diseasels is weight, and also reach. A 1 tonne crane may lift 1 tonne, but you'll find it limited to say 750Kg or less when the top arm is extended, still enough, but you are straining it unnecessarily. Now, with reach, I find it job to get enough reach with most hoists to allow you to balance an engine/box assembly, making things awkward/dangerous, get one with as long a reach as you can... I remember getting out (or putting in, I can't remember) Bish's 200TDI with him and the whole hoist just suddenly tipped forward and smacked Bish on the leg pretty badly IIRC, could have been a lot worse -might have cracked the sump I use one like this pretty often: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-EXPERT-2-TONNE-FOLDING-ENGINE-CRANE-/390298306272?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5adf9786e0 In fact it looks a rebadged version of what I do use, but mine is red... enough reach, enough stability, and folds up really well into less than a filing cabinet sized square. on the floor. All the wheels are metal and the pump is a double acting cylinder for speed Really not sure how much you are willing to spend though

ABS axles have the sensor fitted through the top swivel pin, so the pin is different, plus the CV joint has teeth on it to trgger the ABS sensor. As far as I am aware, the calipers and discs are suitable for ABS and non-ABS operation, so basically you bolt them under the truck and run the pipes to the calipers as you would normally. The diff is identical between an ABS and non-ABS axle, unless one is imperial and one metric -which is another story I suspect you have a pair of Rangie Rover axles under there, from a late 80s/early 90s truck, which came equipped with ABS as standard.

This is about the most useful link you can get for the MOT test: http://www.transportoffice.gov.uk/crt/doitonline/bl/mottestingmanualsandguides/mottestingmanualsandguides.htm It's tha ACTUAL testing guide that the NT's bring up on their MOT computer system, so..... pretty accurate, and should always be up to date. Section 6.7 in the manual is titled: 6.7 Speedometer This inspection applies to Class 5 vehicles first used on or after 01 October 1937. A Tachograph is an acceptable alternative to a speedometer providing it satisfies the requirements of this inspection. As your truck will be a class 4 (or 7 from 2012) the speedo is not tested.

Well they have a bigger one than me then....

That'll be Jenolite

Nothing other than make sure it is REALLY dry before reassembly, sounds like you may have left a touch of moisture in there after the last clean out, and the vapour has caused some surface rust. Either that or something was leaking in when you went wading, but not sure whether you did silly stuff like that or not

Yes, my example was giving a possible situation it could happen in... as roundabouts (and leaning in corners/rough ground generally) tend to make the body flex, and you tend to lean into the door for support when the vehicle is leaning.

Have your doors flopped open when going round a roundabout like a chav? If not, then no

Cheers Si, I promise to put it to good use very soon! Got a cage to modify, and a cage to help build very shortly Pete.

Forget the copper/hide mallet, get alump hammer on it, the steel is VERY hard here, you may mark it, but you won't break it.... If you can find some way of holding the shaft tight all the better, you kind of need to 'shock' the clip out the groove.

Or just move the chassis mounts back.... The restriction is more in the axles radius arm bushes, I doubt extending the arms will make a lot of difference

Pretty sure that's the lock-out solenoid, and it needs removing... did it come out of an auto?

Ashcroft have a list based on serial number: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=45 Your serial (28D334601E) leads you to a 28D = 1.222 Assuming someone hasn't put 1.4 gears in it of course.... Normally an LT230 has a red/black sticker on it with the ratio, but I guess you haven't got this as you found the serial number, just not the sticker As it is a manual you can basically fit whatever year LT230 you like to it, as above, and as you are only on 235/85 tyres a 1.222 ratio one will do fine, if you were on 33" or above then a 1.4 may be best -but sounds like you will have a hard time getting over there...

In a T-piece where the oil pressure switch fits

Just glad to help