Bowie69

I'm struggling to think of any reason why the autobox would stop the engine turning, unless it's a stuck loose bolt in the bell housing...

It is possible for any cable to freeze, however it would have needed to be left with the throttle wide open over night to give the symptoms you describe. As you have had the box out, I would go and look for damage to the kickdown cable, kinks, fraying, that sort of thing, and make sure it is secured at the box end as it should be (I assume there is something holding it in place!). Disconnect it at the throttle end and try and pull it in and out by hand, it should be nice and smooth. Replacing the cable is not a walk in the park, but better than changing out the whole box..... I'd not be inclined to write the box off just yet, it's more common when the governer sticks they just rev and rev and rev without changing at all. Also..... check the fluid level, this can also give the symptoms you describe, as it fails to generate enough pressure to open valves etc. Start it from cold, cycle it through all the gears, a few seconds in each, R, N, D, 3, 2, 1, 1, 2, 3, D, N and then go and check the level.

Um, being a bit dim here, the speedo drive is in the transfer box, isn't it?

That there are parallels to be drawn between the practices.

But they do leave electrical items on display to deliberately tempt people to break into them....

So would 'Police Covert Capture Cars', but they seem to be legal :/

As a side note, if someone is driving up your backside, don't introduce more energy into a potential collision, slow down slowly, right down.... then they either back off or overtake you, problem solved.

7 is terrible.... I used to get 13 on gas all the time! Megasquirt... well I don't really ever drive it unless I am spending most off the day off road, but it works out about 10 I suppose... I managed over 15MPG pulling a trailer at ~ 1 ton and loaded up with camping stuff in the summer though!

I didn't use the remote display, no, the flashing LEDs were plently, I had mine in the passenger footwell , just dangling by the wires so I could monitor whilst driving, but tuck it out of site when I was carrying a passenger, eventually it stayed hidden. Using the VIP100 I found a 10% improvement in MPG, better running through the rev range, especially high up, and generally a smoother V8, I don't run LPG on my V8 any more, due to needing the space, and not doing the mileage I was, but as I say, it has moved to two other vehicles and on both it has made a dramatic improvement, on a V8 90 it took it from 8MPG to 11.5, though I did MegaJolt it at the same time with table switching I reckon my VIP100 paid for itself within 2 months, I ran it for 12 months then gave it to a mate, as I went Megasquirt and wanted my boot back The lambda sensor I was referring to was the one I run for Megasquirt, but the LPG one took plenty of wading too, and that is on it's third truck now! It was supplied with the VIP100, so dont remember what make it is, the one I use currently is a Bosch one, I think I grabbed it from ebay when someone had a job lot of VW ones going for £25 or so, since then I have used Fuelparts sensors also with no issue, on other trucks.

Copper slip on the back of the pads and on the sliders should keep the pads from being noisey. As for Green stuff, read their site: http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com/car/info.asp

Hmmm, only heard bad reports on these TBH, make very little difference, and struggle to keep up with a V8 on full chat, the VIP100 I had, and have now fitted to 2 subsequent vehicles is very good indeed, and simple to setup/fit As for lambda sensors not liking wading.... I wade, mud and water, and have had the same sensor in for about 18 months now, still works fine.

You could, probably, but TBH wouldn't you rather have the increased ground clearance from removing it? They sell for good money on ebay, more than enough to pay for a proper ARB compressor, or a T-Max DIY version.

Very nice work

Mintex or Lockheed are both fine, I don't see hte point of green stuff pads on a 4x4...

I would allow a lot more than that, I had half an inch clearance on mine, with poly bush stops and I now have dented/bent front inner wings to prove that they compress more than 10mm

No.

This is what I would do.... Are you sure the fog wire you have picked up on isn't for the towing electrics?

You don't lose the VIN for an Amatuer Built vehicle, which is the category it would fall into, and therefore not lose the tax exempt status.

I wouldn't bother in all honesty. If you are using a standard-ish truck you will most likely be fine. See my sig for my spec, and even on 10 spline axles and an ARB I have yet to break one. Must try harder I guess!

Thinking about it, the above must be true, for example winter tyres (yes that old chestnut!) rarely have a speed rating of over 135mph (I think that's what it is), but you can legally fit them to big BMWs etc and then go and drive up and down an Autobahn with no problem.....

From the MOT Inspection manual: Note: A Class 3 or 4 vehicle tyre which appears to be of inadequate size, ply or speed rating for the vehicle or its use is not a reason for rejection. However, the vehicle presenter should be informed. In other words, it is very unlikely that the presenter (you ) would be informed as the tester is unlikely to notice. Doesn't mean it complies to Construction and Use Regulations though

How far forward are you mounting the engine? I know it's not a TDI, but 200TDI vs 300TDI position was 6", which would give a prop length of 485mm, more on the OK side I think... have you got much room at the front? I would be trying to move the engine rather than mucking around with wheelbase, there's more work to it than you may think, and you only gain the same 6" by doing so....

There is still absolutely no reason as to why you you should start eating UJ's or wheel bearings by upping the gearing..... or changing wheel sizes within standard spec.

Yup ^^^ Or try something a bit more de-seizing, like Plusgas or duck oil.

Zim, totally correct! Give yourself a pat on the back As your IdleDC isn't changing then I suggest that your fuel cells at idle are totally whacky... work out where the engine wants to idle and try setting the 4 cells around that point to the same VE, that should stop it hunting. Sort the pikes out, honestly, they can't be doing it any good....least worst case is it is screwing up your tuning, worst case is you may end up frying something.... Lastly, go back and re-read Nige's and BBC's tuning posts in the 'uber' thread, remember someone has kindly indexed this for us all