Bowie69

A mate runs 50:50 mix in some of his 'off road' vehicles to use up the 200 or so litres he had left over after converting to gas, IIRC he just adds a small amount of cheap 20w50 to it to help with the lubrication properties, as heating oil is more volatile.

That's exactly how mine sits, though I have a roll cage in the way as well.... You do remove some from the side of the scuttle, though the snorkel doesn't stick out any further than the edge of the scuttle once fitted up. I used a hole saw and a hand file to open it up, though it will be a lot bigger than you expect it to be!

Simon, Here's a pic of the internals of a BW box, they look pretty sturdy, it's a Morse chain http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=39971 1.201:1 ratio however... Low range is 3.244:1.

Yup, really annoying.... even managed to clamp the stat between the flanges once, making it a) weep and b) run the engine cool. As above, a bit of sealant does help, but it will always be a pain to do. Make sure you use a good or genuine thermostat, they need the 'jiggle pin' in them to bleed properly, and this should be at the top of the housing.

This is quite common, normal fix is to weld a washer over the hole.

Cool, lots of options, got a pump arriving tomorrow hopfully, so I can play When I see exactly how it is designed to mount, I may be able to think something up which won't leak Thanks guys!

Step-ups get very expensive, very quickly: http://cgi.ebay.co.u...=item4cf41e90db That would do it, but personally I would fit a very small 24V alternator, and a small 24V battery and run a second charging circuit. That or use a gas stove and a pan of water.

Here you go: http://chittygen11.com/Images/car_pics/console.jpg

Here's a thought, if the pulley is held on with a woodruff key, it is possible that it has worn a step in the slot in the pulley, meaning it won't pull off, it will of course be jammed because of this! I suggest getting a small-ish chisel and hitting the pulley in a way to rotate it on the shaft, this will free it up if it has slipped, and if it was glued in place... and hopefully pull off at some point. Good luck!

OK, that sounds like we are getting somewhere, thanks chaps Will probably visit a breakers today/tomorrow (if it ever stops raining ) to see what they have kicking around, and see if I can get the ring off the tank at the same time -maybe hacksaw blade/battery drill time..... As for welding it, I think I will try the water method, it will get rid of all that stinky diesel too Will show the result when done, I've just finished stripping the OE EFI pump I have here on the shelf, there's really not much to it is there *EDIT* Just a thought, if I cut out a ring from some 6mm plate, drilled and tapped to accept some ~M4 bolts this would work OK I presume?

Right, I have seen this covered in some other places and taken on board the advice, but it hasn't *quite* answered my precise query.... I have a custom tank, originally used for the devils fuel, and as such it has breather, flow and return, all 8.3mm OD, and then of course the 50mm filler. As you can see in my sig, I run an EFI V8, meaning a bit of swaparoonees needs to be done, I think. EFI pumps don't suck well, but some external pumps are OK as long as they are below the bottom of the tank, which mine would be. So, first option, an external fuel pump, these are available off the shelf, Sytec being one manufacturer (as well as numeroous OEM Bosch units), a bit spendy at around £80.... One problem with this is the fact that almost all EFI pumps have a 12mm inlet, and 8mm outlet, will this mean the 8mm pickup on the fuel tank is not big enough? I can physically join them with a reducer, but is this likely to affect it's "sucking" capacity and/or flow? The pump will be below the bottom of the tank, however the fuel pickup is right on top, as usual. Second option, the most expensive one I think... Run an electrical carb pump (£30) to a small swirl pot (£80) which has a 12mm outlet, 8mm feed and return, then add an EFI pump on the back end of this. I am sure this will work, and work well, but knocking on £200 is getting expensive, not to mention introducing 2 failure points. Third option, this is quite a tall tank, though I'm not sat right in front of it at the moment, What about a V8 90 EFI fuel pump? How do these fit into the top of the tank? Is there a special ring for them to mount into which needs welding/brazing in place or would it be possible to just cut a hole with a hole saw, drop it in and self tapper it in place with a gasket? Or am I barking I'd rather not weld it as it has a small amount of the devils fuel still inside it If the above is true, I guess I can butcher a 90 V8 carb pump... a'la FF, I think? I now have 2 spare V8 EFI fuel pumps here, ready to butcher if I can Any feedback gratefully received Many thanks, Pete.

With 12V to the centre of the coil pack, and a lead and plug resting on the engine, short one of the outer pins to 12V and then release, you should get a spark. It is possible that you have had both coil packs die, I suppose, hence the above test. Then as above, probably time for a new EDIS8, good job you still have the dizzy! If it is indeed the EDIS, I would triple check the wiring to it, there maybe something daft in it which has caused the failure, they are very robust units TBH...

Yep, the endoscope, NHS = National Health Service

Toyota 1uz

Exactly what I thought too, well done!

Wanted one of them for YEARS.... where did you get it, or did you 'acquire' it from the Slovenian NHS?

That's useful to know, thanks ^^^ Now to mention cleanliness, how many pairs of rubber gloves do we need to get through to do the swap... my guess is a lot. Any dirt in the box could render it useless.

Those are the tow ball bolts, and as such 240Nm is designed for an M16, do that to an M10 and you'll likely be removing it in two pieces Yours will need M10/12, unsure of which, as I don't have a Defender

Sounds it, Ashtrans will be along to tell you how to fix, if economically viable. It may well be cheaper to get a new (second hand) box in all honesty.

Almost certainly. Torque converter should be fitted to the gearbox to the correct depth from the bell housing face, and then the engine offered up to it. From a recent post of mine: But as you have fitted it the other way around, it's probably new pump time.

Only sure-fire way of confirming/disproving 'slipped liner' is a block pressure test, with the engine disassembled -I suppose you could do this with just the heads off.... though I have never tried this myself, as all three of my V8s have never used any water at all (two 3.9 and one 4.0l )

AA Book of the Car, from the 70s, very good reading, explains just about everything with those classic old-school drawings in red and black. They should come up on Ebay for next to nothing nowadays, I inherited mine from my dad

I still think you must have a wiring problem somewhere between the start inhibit and starter relay... IIRC the warning light you are referring to is an overheat light, and it shouldn't stop you starting the car. I would try putting 12V to the spade terminal on the starter to see if it cranks it over, if it does then find the starter relay and check it, if it doesn't then the starter solendoid is probably dead.

I seem to remember he said 'ok go' or similar, I think it was his mistake TBH, and one he won't repeat in a hurry....

Very odd behaviour, but I would start by checking the reverse switch and start inhibit switches on the gearbox, rather than under the bonnet.