Bowie69

That and check your policy document, each is different! The coppers won't accept "a bloke on the internet said it would be OK" if you do get stopped.

Will, Oddly I have one small and one larger on the rear of my Rangie, no idea why, but I do know that it had a small rear end shunt at some time in it's life, so could well have been replaced. Is it possible that Disco mounts are the larger ones? Just a thought.... Elsewhere on the truck they are all the same size as the smaller one. HTH

Exactly right ^^^^In addition, 2 13mm headed bolts hold the front edge in place where the door shuts.Mud flap bracket will come off with a grinder

Ditto, a recent broken wire was a nice find under my truck recently

In fact, they have one on special as of tomorrow, so you are in luck! Check their website for details, the link above is not working due to a poor website design

Get a mate rocking the wheel, you under it, you will see some play, it's the only way to really check it TBH.

3 spare vehicles and a packet of Jaffa Cakes.

Yup, it is.

The allen stud will only turn once you have loosened the large lock nut surrounding it, it should move freely then, however, I think you should be looking elsewhere before attempting this, the steering joints, bushes and UJs are far more likely to be the cause IMHO. You can of course check the play in the box, by watching the input and output shaft whilst rocking the steering, but as above, get a mate to help you, and you will probably find the problem pretty quickly. BTW, tyres shouldn't make the mechanics of the steering any different, only the 'feel' and vagueness whilst in a straight line and moving.

Perhaps people should not be so bloody assumptive!

Just use some really hot water and caustic soda in a bucket, it will clean it off in no time, really really makes a huge difference to oil stained engine parts. Don't leave in there for too long to soak, 20 minutes is more than enough, just agitate with a brush/green scourer and it will come up like new. Rinse off well afterwards and job done I wouldn't trust a dishwasher (well, the tablets really TBH) as you can't so easily check on the progress to see if something has melted You could try it without the detergent and see what difference it makes....?

Welcome to the BBC's reporting. Another article this week on how electric cars don't have good range, and then demostrating it by trying to get to Edinburgh in it :smackshead:...... What we pay them for I do no know...

These units are notoriously difficult to bleed, even following the workshop manual they often will not bleed the front circuits properly. Follow the official workshop manual instructions TO THE LETTER, with a decent pressure bleeder and you should be OK, I found my brakes firmed up a lot after a short drive too. Are they a LR specialist?

Had this on a 1995 Accord, I found the fault, I am pretty sure... it was the handbrake cable outers compressing due to old age reducing pressure on the actual pads -it sounds like a similar design caliper arrangement, so would be worth checking. I could see the cable outers shortening significantly as the handbrake was applied, then you ran out of lever eventually. I didn't ever repair it as I sold the car It did work, just not quite to Mr MOT standards.

From your list, Subaru, Toyota, Kia, in that order. My dad has a Hyundai Santa Fe (same factory as Kia), 120K and nothing but a rusted oil cooler pipe bursting -or was it a monkey in the dealership hitting it with a hammer

Careful, I thought Warn lowline winches had an offset fairlead....? I know I had to modify the southdown bumper on my truck when I fitted a Goodwinch TDS, originally it had a Warn X9 in it (I think, maybe best to check with Bishbosh if you go that route) It is of course, just a case of cutting the slot out a bit, re-welding a bit of it back in, and plugging a bolt hole, but would be better if it fitted, wouldn't it

In summary : check with your insurer, not a bunch of guys over the internet as to whether your insurer covers you in a certain situation. I can't see the bad side in all of this TBH, seems pretty sensible.

Yeah, and the pigs we keep are growing wings too!

Wtf? I still need a stat with my squirted truck..... and most people end up with their coil packs right in the way.....

It's a tractor, guv, honest!

A mate has one like this in his truck, the only issue really is that the tacho goes all the way up to 10K rpm, which for a 6K limited 4 pot, or a 7K limited V8 that is going in soon is a bit daft....

It is, the OP is already running red, as his vehicles are off road only.

Or, plug it all into an Android powered PDA and use the g-meter, compass and GPS built into that, attach it to a steering wheel which is just there to look pretty, and detatch it from the front axle, which of course would be full hyro steering....

Stupid question alert, but why EP90 and not EP80w90? It's only 1 grade thinner when cold, and the same grade when up to temperature....? IMHO it would make bugger all difference, apart from maybe slowing a leaking seal, which you shouldn't have on a newly built diff... You have permission to call me thick if I have missed the point

3.5 on carbs vs 4.6 on EFI would be 50% more for sure