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Bowie69

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by Bowie69

  1. Speed shouldn't be out due to the drive being taken from the transfer box output, but it is possible that the drive gear is the wrong one.....What year is it? Are you sure its not a factory 3.9?As for inner tubes and not, could be the fitter ran out of tubes.....
  2. They aren't access denied folders really, more 'these don't exist, so don't worry yourself about them' The only two I can't get in are 'System Volume info' and 'Documents and settings', which you have no cause or reason to go into... Or are there others? A screenshot of the C drive root would be very helpful
  3. You can probably fit the link lead and dizzy, it's a good upgrade IMHO, IIRC the difference between early and late was the dizzy/oil pump drive, one was female, one male, I think(!)
  4. In win7, some of the old 'docs and settings' folders don't really exist any more, and are replaced under the c:\users\admin\appdata folder, if you look carefully some of them (like application data) have a shortcut arrow on them, meaning they aren't accessible, and there isn;t anything in them. So... instead of using 'Application Data', use 'AppData' in your case
  5. *cough* http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=62758&st=0&p=543321&hl=studs&fromsearch=1entry543321
  6. Handbook rt03 is indeed a v good tyre..... It depends how much off road bias you want......?
  7. Paint stripping heat gun would be faster than a hair dryer, but a fan heater shoved under it could well defrost the lot, even outside....
  8. Heard a rumour they stopped the Simex JT2s now, have they? BFG's are Q rated, though you may not want these
  9. Sounds like either rear diff or a rear half shaft has left go, pull out the half shafts first and see if they are broken, if they are OK, it's probably time to whip the diff out.... It's a simple, if a bit heavy job, but only nuts and bolts really
  10. 4x4Adventures.co.uk Will probably see you there if you go
  11. To get 'show' plates online, try Craig's plates, very quick turnaround for me
  12. But it runs fine on LPG? I'm assuming a draw through system, which points to a fuelling issue on the Flapper, which will start with saying coolant temp sender
  13. What sort of revs do the 200/300TDIs do at cruise? Isn't that going to be around 3K rpm? So why should it do any more damage than if you were driving up and down the motorway?
  14. Not whining, speaking from experience, the Britpart yellow or Deflex orange bushes are made of a far more brittle material with a much larger crystaline structure and a rough surface finish than SuperPro. This is the reason they fail so quickly, and SuperPro last longer. If they get eaten with the suspension setup above, then they get eaten, but even if they cost 50% more I bet you will get more than 50% more life out of them compared to Britpart/Deflex bushes, meaning they are better value in the end. With the SuperPro or equivalent, make sure you use plenty of the lube included with them, it makes a big difference. The other option which should really be considered, is to re-engineer the suspension so that it doesn't destroy bushes every time you take it out, something like revolver shackles would reduce the stress on the bushes by a large amount, and don't have to be costly, they can be DIY if you want. Something like this, just a quick google for them: http://www.difflock.com/buyersguide/newproducts/gone2far/Spring-Mount1.jpg Chris, with anything like the above setup, or even just paras and 1-ton shackles you will end up having to notch the cross member too, moreso with the large amount of droop you seem to be being driven towards. Rolling back a bit, is fabricating new shock mounts within your capabilitiess/design/comfort zone? Is it even something you want to do? Do you want to chop your cross member about to acheive max droop, or is it a lovely new galvanised one that you really can't bring youself to do it to....? You've not really said much about specs or use other than 'mostly off-road', which can mean a lot of different things.... A bit more info I think is required before you spend £1K and another month trying to get it all to work together properly.
  15. You could put a small, clear fuel filter inline with the MAP tube, this would probably catch most of the moisture, and if not you should be able to see the moisture in the filter to prove/disprove it...?
  16. Don't put britpart anything, let alone bushes near your land rover, unless you want it to have a paddy and break for you immediately. For bushes, go SuperPro.
  17. That's some impressively heavy engineering in those links... shame there are no real photos of flex...?
  18. You mean like an anti-dive/squat bar? In other words an anti-roll bar following along each chassis rail, then taking a turn and connecting to the outer edge of the axle, thereby inhibiting flex?
  19. Truetracs do work in cross-axled situations, if you push gently on the brakes with power on you will get them working. Truetracs are not actually a limited slip diff, they are torque biasing, which is slightly different, and need SOME resistance on the loose wheel to work. I too have a mate with Truetracs front and rear and yes they do work All 4 wheels spinning in thick mud? You'd get the same with 2 lockers if you are beached. I suspect you thinking they are pants in a cross axle is down to the driver not knowing how to use them, they are well regarded by many, and are, for a LR diff, virtually bullit proof. TBH I would put the money towards the winch upgrade, if you are in winch challenges that is.... Other option, is to locker the front axle, and put those 'slipper hubs' on, can't remember the name, but they take the shock loading out of the drive train.
  20. PROPER polybushes, are fine, IMHO it's the cheapo-nasty ones like Deflex that have given them a bad reputation in some circles. If it was my money (and it has been) use SuperPro throughout.
  21. From what I understand, the payment is for insurance, you do want you and your truck to be insured, don't you?
  22. And a £30 block testing kit is well recommended to (dis)prove combustion gasses in the coolant. http://www.uktools.com/block-tester-p-12508.html
  23. Even with the under-bonnet insulation mine steams like it's split a hose in the rain
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