Bowie69

Well, they are both roughly 50W, both halogen, so pretty much the same I would guess... Trust me though, you won't want for light with two of them shining away behind you. Main reason I suggested is because of the compactness, and cage mounting.

Couple of X-lites?

No, they aren't continuously rated like a proper winch solenoid is.

Sorry to spear off in another direction, what has made you decide you need castor corrected arms?

Could be the air operated freewheel hubs aren't operating properly, highly likely if never/not used for ages.

I don't know for sure, but *MOST* vehicles have 4 drains, and they run down the A pillar, and either the B or C pillar down to the wheel well, to drip down onto the ground. I think if you looked hard enough you would find them TBH, in fact, a google seems to give quite a few pictures on D2 sunroof fixes.

With the risk of sounding a touch rude, do a search, please, this has been covered dozens of times in the past, but the crux of it is find some twin Mondeo fans, and buy an X-fan switch from X-Eng and job done.

It was more engine/manufacturer specific IIRC, some had to be run up, some left overnight and done in the morning, but was more for aluminium blocked engines. I'd just follow the workshop manual procedure for your engine.

Audi Q7 = just as bad in the snow/ice as an X5, it's down to the hoooogeness of the tyres unfortunately, not the 4x4 system per se. You know BMW does 4x4 saloons/estates to special order? They are very common in Germany, but they still fit winter tyres for > 4 months of the year, it's pretty much the norm. A mate of mine over there has a 135i Coupe, and moans he is limited to just 135MPH on his winter rims, and they are ~ 50mm narrower(!), but they do work, they had 12" of snow in one night whilst we had similar amounts and he was in work on time in the morning with no drama. So... basically forget anything with stupidly wide tyres, get a lightweight 4 wheel drive saloon/estate and if you really really want to drive rings round everyone else, get some PROPER winter tyres, M+S marked tyres are NOT winter tyres.

Is the battery flat after this problem occurs? If so, you may have a duff alternator rather than a bad earth, the alternator indicator light does not always illuminate when there's no charge going to the battery.

They say on the site they fit to the original steering damper mounts, bolt on fitment etc, so I doubt it will be more complicated than that. As for not having a steering damper.... a lot of people run without one and have no issues, plus a hydraulic cylinder is going to act pretty damned well at damping I would have thought.....

Dunno on that one! I just kept it simple, looked for an auto disco and it didn't let me down

Ditto, why buy a 4x4 when you can just buy a car with four wheel drive? Subaru of any flavour would be top of my list, maybe even a 280bhp import one

The LT230 is the longer of the boxes, and as they all pickup the same mounts in the chassis rail, they are in the same place

Also, the 'Winter Mechanics Overalls' in LIDL the other week are EXCELLENT at keeping you toasty warm even with it -4C during the day here If they come up again I will buy another pair

You can get an M12 through the chassis, but depends on the towbar manufacturer whether it will go through the bracket.....As for length, get a tape measure out

Dunno, just searched the forum for 'challenger' and looked for a thread starter, lo and behold he had www.challenger4x4.co.uk in his sig So easy, you'd think anyone could do it

Soliholic on here is, a PM would probably help get him a bit faster http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showuser=2837

No real difference in size, LT230 is larger between the output flanges, BW is deeper to the rear/left, meaning you can't fit an X-brake. BW box uses the longer prop, and are scarily expensive new, fortunately the breakers round here don't know that I suspect you will have issues with the crossmember, I think the difference is ~ 50mm in length, I don't think Gwyn Lewis does these in wide angle either, you may need to get one made up specially. Gear box mounts.... Well, the transfer box mount is the important one, it's different, it sounds like to me you have the TD5 setup at the moment.... with square blocks of rubber? TBH, I would go get a full set from a Rangie and bolt that lot in, but you could maybe get away with just changing the transfer box mount. Yep, just swap your LT230 gear into the BW, then go and calibrate to GPS or similar All BW boxes are 1.2, great for cruising with a V8, not so great with a stinky diesel and large tyres... Someone does make a chain drive conversion to drop the ratio nicely for 33-35" tyres, but it is ~ £600 or thereabouts, which was out of my budget really. AFAIK, no Defenders came with the BW box as standard, only the late RRC ('88 onwards I think).

Hi Andy, sorry for not replying earlier, I missed your post! 1.4 would be OK with your 35" tyres, but I would be tempted to look for a 1.66 ratio box, it would bring you much closer to stock, if my calcs are correct, even so, a 1.4 will be a huge improvement for sure. The autobox output shaft is held on with 1 long bolt in the end of it, very easy to swap if needed. You only need to swap the output shaft if either your transfer case has the cross-drilled input gear, or the existing one is worn. If you do need to replace, ring Ashcrofts, he'll have them on the shelf. I am not sure what the difference, if any, there is between diesel/V8 disco linkage, I suspect they are identical, just giving you the info which worked for mine, which was a 200 series V8 disco As for the props.... yes it's a diesel one, the very late V8 classic ones were slimmer, however mine wasn't, being a 1991, it's not ap roblem however, as the distance between the output flanges of an LT230 is greater than a BW, meaning you need a shorter front prop, meaning it clears the crossmember more easily. Lastly, you say you have lost the viscous coupleing, and it is open... are you sure? They normally fail in a locked situation.... It sounds like you may have just broken a halfshaft...... would be worth checking, quite easy, I'd drop the front prop off, and see if it drives still, replace, then drop the rear prop off and see if it drives.. HTH

Yup, just look at some pics of Nige's 5.2V8 cylinder bores which were running on a free-flow filter setup....

The dimension is probably 51mm from TC mounting holes to face of bell housing, but as above, check for your code on Ashcrofts site. To fit the TC I didn't use anything other than my hands, the handles for sure would make it easier, but not essential by any means... Actually fitting it, I did it a few times to make sure, it has 3 notches as it slides on, no need to line anything up before hand, it's not just the drive you need to line through, but there's 2 sets of splines as well, IIRC. Basically, slot it on as square as possible, rotate slowly with a small amount of force pushing it home, eventually it will fine it's home and slide onto the first notch, repeat, and it will find it's second, and then the third. At this point measure the distance. then quadruple check everything. I would suggest as you will be man handling the box back into it's home, rig something to make sure once you arte happy with the position, it won't slip forward upon installation, a ratchet strap and some wood would probably do it OK.

If it is an F, it could be one of the first factory 3.9s, they arrived in 1990....<br /><br />As for the tubes again, the wheels, if alloy, will have 'tubeless' cast into them around the rim, along with the size. Also, the 'F' could be a private plate

I think so, just tap the roll pin out and swap over.Someone more grown up can probably confirm!