Bowie69

Yep, just the one filter.

To replace with 'proper' pipes you will need to drop the fuel tank, which can be a pain in the rear, then, unless the fuel pump is new, you will have to wrestle with rusted on unions, break the pump outlets, buy a new pump and then start again. My suggestion is that you use what you have, the copper/rubber pipe is more than up to the job, however, as you point out there should be a fuel filter in the pressure line bolted to the chassis in front of the drivers side rear wheel, when I replaced all my pipe work I just got a standard push fit with clips filter off ebay, larger capacity than the stock rangie one and held it with a big jubilee through a plate I pop riveted to the underside of the floor. This was mainly due to the fuel filter bracket crumbling before my eyes when I went to remove the old filter.....

Pretty sure it's NTC6166, but you are possibly better off getting a second had one, depending on your budget.

You mean propshafts or halfshafts? A LR doesn't dreally have 'driveshafts' as such.

Should've given them a chance to swap it out really, rather than replaced it first....If you had gone in asking for an exchange with no receipt I expect there would have been no problem.

As far as I can work out, they should be parallel.... I think you may need to give more info... Have you flipped the axles? Have you got the box mounts bolted up *correctly*? Are you sure it's not just a trick of the light?

I would suggest swivel preloads, or as it is occuring on rough roads more than smooth, it's quite possible the dampers are not damping any more. Do the preloads first (cheapest) and see how it improves it, then look at swapping some dampers from another known good truck to try, or just use it as an excuse to buy some nice new ones At that mileage, given the use you suggest it is put to, I wouldn't be surprised if the swivels needed an overhaul TBH, long, mucky, and relatively costly job I am afraid.... but don't jump in at the deep end!

Is this the union to the cooler or to the engine front cover?

Not on the pulleys for sure, if they have bearings in them you will wash out the grease. There are quite a number of posts abouts squeaks from the diseasal engines, and a couple of tricks to fix them, have a search

Possible, but a PITA: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=60728&view=findpost&p=528976

This is really good stuff, if you can't find anything obvious: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ambersil-Belt-Dressing/dp/B002SQIJP2 (other online stores are available)

You'll struggle to get oil pressure on just engine cranking, in my experience, the drill method would be much faster, and no need to pack vaseline beforehand. Whilst in there I would stick the original pressure relief valve back in, the 'new' one may be causing you problems.

Yeah, BOTOH, *HE* would have to deal with all the returned botched units. I can see his point entirely TBH.

odd, a mate bought a kit from them 12months ago, though he did have to ring them up for it.

Trigger Wheels.....

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=59151&st=0&p=516886&hl=belgian&fromsearch=1entry516886 *CLICK*

Ignition amp is almost certainly what is wrong with it. It's the little black box screwed to the side of the dizzy.

That's interesting, I was having the same problem on my V8, but noticed it collapsing when ravving it stationary.... Never overheated, as it was just after the rebuild and was still sorting the cooling system out

Probably Gwyn Lewis, though there's no price on the website, a call should sort that out... http://www.gwynlewis....uk/page10.html

Erm, lights are wired in PARALLEL, not series, otherwise you drop voltage across each lamp. If you have 4 lights, 2 core wire is fine, and a 30A relay is fine too, both assuming you are only running 55W bulbs. If running 100W bulbs then you need to duplicate the circuit, and only run a pair off each circuit. Earth everything to the battery, a much more secure way of doing things. For a wiring diagram, you should have used the search function, I found it within 30 secs: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=27169 All credit to Western, I believe.

Yes, Disco ones are too short. Hence why replacing with an older ali floor is a better option.

If you have the head off, take the opportunity to blow through all tehe water ways really well with an airline, can only help!

I'd be starting to lean this way TBH, you've eliminated just about anything that can cause cooling issues, so the last thing is the block/head itself. As you've done it before you will be well practised at it now, and shouldn't take you long The head gasket wasn't in a blue box, was it?

Halfords, if a 20w50, will be fine. I'd still be suspicious of the pressure release valve TBH... try tapping it gently with a hammer with the engine running to see if you can get the light to go out.

10w-40 is FAR too thin for the Rover V8, use 20w50, nothing less. As above, don't use the cheap cack stuff, expect to pay at least £15 for 5 litres, I use either Millers or Valvoline in mine, which goes out at about £25 for 4.5l. If it's an oldish engine then don't bother doing a flush, probably cause more problems than fix.... Yes to cleaning the strainer, if you remove it, you will need to re-prime it again. Are you driving around with no oil pressure then..............?