Bowie69

A length of 3 core flex, 6 female spade crimps and a MoM-off-MoM Carling switch makes you an in-cab winch control, costs about £10 Very simple, a search on here will probably bring it up.

http://tinyurl.com/2977pmb

Sounds like the solenoid has failed internally, if you have good bright lights and a charged battery this is pretty much the only reason why the winch would not power in/out. One thing to check though.... remove, clean and check the earth strap, this may be a cause, but I would be surprised in this case.... If it has one of the so-called waterproof albright copy solendoids in it, it might just be dirty terminals, when I opened mine up from the TDS 9.5 I found rust and a badly corroded terminal on one side -I replaced it with an Albright which when it arrived is MUCH better constructed and waterproofed.

I think, having read up on this, they are legal as long as they are not going to cause damage to the road surface, i.e. there is a significant covering of snow and ice. The MOT Inspection Manual makes reference to studded tyres, so they must be legal in some shape or form, in fact every semi-authorititve page I have seen on the web suggests they are legal, as long as they don't cause damage. I really can't see the justification for the month or so of snowy weather get a year, winter tyres would be a much better bet.

Just turn the ignition on IIRC, that's how mine always worked.

Possibly not the Disco's original engine then... or just a cock-up at the factory

Reset what?

21L is an EDC Disco 300 TDI http://www.landroverexpedition.com/engines/300tdi/

Talc on door seals apparently, it stops moisture accumulating and has lubricating properties...

Remove and clean thoroughly the axle breather, don't just assume it will be clear (like I did ). I cleaned union out (small drill bit an some solvent), blew the line through with compressed air, cut the pipe off and refitted it to the union (warm pipe with cig lighter at this point). Never had a problem since, and it it was free/less hassle than removing the diff. Before it left a good sized puddle of EP90 on the floor after a couple of hours driving...

You didn't forget the antifreeze when filling up did you? No antifreeze = seized water pump = belt slip = smokeyness. Take a look in the cool light of day, and I am sure you will find it an easy fix, if not I will take it off your hands

Without looking at the wiring diagram, you may have a blown fuse somewhere... first place to check I would say. After that, then ignition switch, see if you get power on the ignition live wire out of it when in position 3.

Just a note, 16KOhm is exactly that, 16,000 Ohm, not, 0.016 Ohm,. which would be written as 16mOhm

Steve, I'm pretty sure there's no vacuum line between gearbox and engine intake... I've had 2 1991 RRCs and neither had this.

Double check the box fluid level, sounds like it could be seriously low....

You need to change the output shaft for one with longer spines, Ashcroft have these on their site for this specific reason, though it is a standard part.This is only normally a problem with later transfer boxes with a cross-drilled input gear.

Getting some now.... maybe more on the Mendips

Gwyn Lewis, no need for double cardon props

What parts do you have? You should have something like this : http://img117.images...431/img3320.jpg From there it should be self explanatory....? Good pictures here: http://www.cowdery.org.uk/v8rebuild.php search on the page for 'flex'. However, there is a particular spacing required measured from the bellhousing mating surface, someone with a better memory than me will turn up in a sec and quote it from the workshop manual You may find you need to drill out the spigot bearning to get the torque converter to sit down properly.

Another vote for them, very good prices and super-quick delivery.

Am I right in seeing a stock motor on your baby 8274? If so a 12V Bowmotor (1 or 2) would be a significant upgrade but both would also be significantly heavier. Bow1's are available in 12 and 24V, but Bow2's are only available in 12V from what I can see on their site....

The wipac crystal ones are available from Boltonbits on ebay for reasonable money.

Was this the rear rope snapping? http://www.youtube.com/user/mvs1212#p/u/1/5i6hMeRVfAU

Correct! Or just find where those terminals run to and re-join where the original wiring loom was cut, it should be fairly easy to find under the steering column area, probably directly off the back of the ignition switch.