Bowie69

Have a read: http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1989/1796/schedule/5/made Basically, you don't need an E mark, and minimum wattage is 30W. I think I have it right, but there's no wattage requirement post 1986, but the bulb must be E marked, which I guess means all E marked bulbs will be 55W Please check!

As shown in my sig.... the V8 is running ~ 220BHP, vehicle weight: 2.5t.

Aside from the doubled up wheel arches, I quite like it.

WELL... not in the front, but have one in the rear, and am still running stock shafts there, with known VERY worn drive flanges. With it locked up, I have given it a lot of abuse and nothing has failed, pretty surprised TBH, but pleasantly of course

RRC has self levelling suspension and 7" headlamps....

These are very very good: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/7%22-WIPAC-CRYSTAL-Halogen-Headlights-%26-Bowls-Defender_W0QQitemZ390242797529QQcmdZViewItem?rvr_id=170813405039&rvr_id=170813405039&cguid=16fdc39c11d0a0e202069d26ffb83795 That's with bowls, but you may of course not need them A mate runs them in his truck, and they are like having a couple of searchlights on the front.

Start looking for a short then! White/red wire I believe.

How about go closed-loop cruise control and be done with it?

You could also try: http://www.drivertransmissions.co.uk/

Sorry Mayur, it's not often I do this, but please re-learn your oxygen sensor stuff from somewhere, because you are spreading a LOT of misleading information. Firstly there are two basic materials used in oxygen sensors, Zirconia, by far and away most common, and Titania, as used on some Range Rover/Discos (and some others, but this is keeping it relevant to us.), therse are pretty rare So now we have the materials, we need to talk about the number of wires.... Firstly Narrowband Zirconia sensors: 1 wire, 0-1v, the most basic version. 2 wire, 0-1v, one wire is signal, one is ground 3 wire, 0-1v, one wire (black) signal, one is supplied 12v for the heater, and a shared ground 4 wire, 0-1v, one wire (black) signal, one signal ground (grey), two white wires, one ground and one 12V for the heater. The output signal is rapid switching between 0 and 1v. Now, Narrowband Titania sensors: These give an output of 0-5v, switching from 1000 Ohms to 20,000 Ohms quickly. I'm unsure of the number of wires as they are relatively rare, and of no use to me. But I suspect they are heated and require 4 wires, connected the same way as the 4-Zirconia senssors. Wideband sensors: This is a whole different kettle of fish. They no longer switch between 0-1v or 0-5v but deliver a linear voltage between two set limits (0 and 5v or 0 and 12v for example) giving much greater precision for tuning purposes. Wideband sensors generally use zirconia as the sensing element, however there is a lot more to it than just the element in this case. These have 6 wires: 2 for heater 1 resistor 1 ground 1 pump 1 sensor I hope this clarifies things a little for you and others, if not, have a read here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor and http://www.picoauto.com/applications/lambda-sensor.html and if you want more, Google will reveal all.

They might well do it, yep. Not used those specific ones before, be worth getting an opinion of someone who has....? As for getting it home/to a machine shop, how far is it? If just a few miles and you are a diesel you may well get away with driving with no belt attached, just watch the temp gauge.

If you can get to a machine shop they may be able to helicoil it in place.

huh? the 4-wire ones are only 0-1 volts...... same for 3,2,1 wire stock ones.0-5v ones are considered more accurate, at least they give a better resolution to the scale of AFR.

Collapsed rear transfer box output bearing? Centre diff? Gotta be the transfer box somewhere.....

Put a jack under one axle, lift one wheel off the ground. Diff lock out = wheel spinning Diff lock in = truck tries to drive off the jack. Check the wires on the top of the switch (front/top face of the box) they can get broken quite easily.

Can I have one for my V8 please?

Even a year old, I would check the panhard rod bushes anyways, I mullered my first set of poly's in just over a year.

A complete kit for you: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/supercharger-kit-rover-v8-nitrous-/260689359502?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cb24bf28e

Both great videos. Not wishing to put a downer on things, but washing your vehicles in a ford is illegal.

Use NGK (BPR6ES) plugs only, V8s are very picky about them.

More likely difference in rolling resistance, or the above change in rolling circumference, if proven true, I'm keeping out of that one at the moment .

Whoops, yes, of course there is, I was forgetting having ali-floored the back of mine Sparkling spanner to remove the screws.

In that case do the rears, and see how much improved it is. The front axle really is a PITA to do

Are you sure it's the halfshafts at fault here? Drivetrain slop is present in even brand new land rovers.... so if you are not used to it it can be a little alarming at first. I'd pull the rears first, inspect and if not damaged/worn then you need to look elsewhere, I would begin with the prop UJs at the transfer box end and work my way down the transmission to the sliding joints, diff end UJ, Diff, then diff end of halfshaft, (then CV joint on front axle, does it click when on full lock driving slowly?) then hub end of halfshaft. If they all check out OK, then you are looking at either a diff or maybe transfer box. What mileage are you on? Sorry, the reasons for questions is not to send you off stripping the front axle when it could be perfectly OK.... To check the outer splines just remove the circlip and unbolt the drive flange and remove, it'll be pretty obvious if something is wrong...

TVR 350C's were factory supercharged with a Sprintex system, they come up for sale on Ebay relatively often...