dougstar

follow this link until you get to the drilling out if the rivits stage, once you have done this you will gain access to the gear change housing (on the transfer box) pop out the 4 10mm bolts to expose the in side of the gear change housing. once you have done this you will see the long cross shaft running through the middle of this, where it passes through the end cover is the most likely point of siezure! by releasing the end cover (i needed i impact driver for the phillips heads) you can free it off and re-grease. i have just done this tonight as part of changing the clutch via the EXCELLANT link from above, as my diff lock had siezed too but for what reason i do not know becasue it was in constant use then all of a sudden BANG nothing. anyway hope this helps and i will try and post pictures soon including one of the MOD i am hopeing to make to the side of the end cover!!! dougstar B)

thanks discoryan thought as much but it does get a little confusing some times. regards dougstar

hi guys, quick one, would i be right in thinking the last 8 digits of my 17 digit VIN No is what i should be using for reference when ordering parts? thanks

oops really must search harder on the forum in future anyhoo whats this i read about the 130 friction plates being a better job? does this come with any disadvantages??? think i,m gonna go for the B&B clutch as that is getting the best reviews. what about the strengthing of the replacment release lever whats the best way to go about this or can they be bought?? thanks again guys.

driving home monday, notices problem with clutch.......... -then had to start pulling pedal up with foot after pressing clutch (its just the spring return on pedal my inexperience tells me ) -after several gear changes using this method all seemed ok then doh! all clutch is lost -i nursed it the remaining mile home and stalls at bottom of cul-de-sac. -after getting my kids and the remaining 2-10 year olds in the street to push my disco i parked it outside the house. -first check no fluid lost -master cylinder checked, all ok -removed slave cylinder all ok -cannot be the clutch i tells my self as all seemed well laneing at the weeekend and no slipping etc etc -then i reaches in only to discover the release lever seems to have snapped above the release lever pivot point as i can move this by hooking it with my shaped long nose pliers and flick it about with my fingers!!!!!!! -consulting both my haynes and genuine LR manual it seems that the only way to fix this is via removal of the gear and transfer boxes??? -if this is the case which it looking like it, it must be worth changing the complete clutch in my 1996 175000 disco? paddocks do a borg and beck clutch are these any good?? if i,m doing the whole out jobby i wanna do it RIGHT so whats the best clutch to put in? is it worth getting my gearbox reconditioned at the same time too? how bigger job is this? i have limited experience but have a very good pal on side that is really good mechinic is it a relevent job? whilst all this is going on and removed from the car what else should i be doing with regards to maintenence and preventative maintenince??? hope you clever guys can help me on this one and look forward to hearing all you opinions. thanks in advance

sorry mate will have to disagree i thought it was spot on, a decent programme back onour screens thats worth watching! will have to agree with Turbocharger that the best is still to come

sorry think i have hi-jacked still new to the forum game any hoo forget the last comment. apolgies dougstar

i also have just fitted a oil pressure guage as a form of preventative maintance, however on a hot engine it seems to run at less than 25Psi this is a lot les than the parameters of 40Psi at 2500 revs on warm enginge as stated in the land rover manual! i have a small oil leak onthe vacuum pump that has not seen it alter on the dipstick for around 1500 miles. what else could cause this low pressure reading? the pressure sender does look a little cheap should i change this first? if so where can i get one cause canny find them on paddocks or john craddocks hope i,m not hijacking this thread????? am i? sorrystill quite new and picking things up every day. dougstar

ok here goes again........... try fuse number 17 should/would have been a yellow 20a incorporating ciggy lighter (front and rear) and gear selector indicator hppe this works its out of a manual for a 87-91 but hopefully the same?????????? let me know. dougstar B)

sorry to go here but where can i copy of the rave manual for my disco 1????????

right here goes.............. open the two flat head screws situated under the steering collum let the door drop down you should see on the right hand side a bank of fuses 6 vertical across the top (satellite 2) 17 horizontil across the middle (main fuse box) 6 vertical across the bottom (satellite 1) head for main fuse box No 6 this is the 6th horizontil fuse on the left as you look at the panel thats your ciggy lighter SH!T just realised you posted this on the RR forum! let me know what year and model it is and i'll find it for you hopefully dougstar

yep sorry defo love the cheviot one as upon closer inspection you will see they have a grove on the corner's of the bumper to allow you to winch off something behind the front line of your car should (and i would be very happy to be equipped) that be the only thing in site where a ground anchor was not feesable!big selling point for me i,m afraid also i have just fitted my new steering guard from the same 'bombproof' range and am very pleased with it (pics to follow) however do not get excited about this bumper as i have been trying to get my grubby little paws on one for a long time now with no luck at all as it seems the laws have changed on the production of these style of bumpers the following is cut from a e-mail i recived from a nice man called ken at cheviot 4x4........... Hi dougie, Sorry to take so long but I needed to make one or two telephone calls on this subject of bumpers and 'A' Bars. From now on all our bumpers will not be fitted with 'A' bars. The law states that "the frontal protection system shall not be inclined forward of the vertical. The top parts of the fps shall not extend upwards or rearwards more than 50mm from the bonnet leading edge reference line of the line of the vehicle." Several companies around the country who supply bumpers with 'A' bars no longer do so. We have followed that route. We have a couple of Defender bumper bars left for off road use only but that is all. In future all bumpers provided by ourselves will not have the 'A' bar. That does mean that there is some redesign work to be completed to put the strength in the bumper in another way. So, we will be revamping our bumper product range. I do not have a timescale but I can tell you that when the new range is ready it will be put on the website. I am sorry to have kept you waiting so long. Best Wishes Ken if anyone hears any more on this matter or has a different view please let me know, in the mean time i,m still on the hunt for that ideal bumper to stick on my beloved dougstar

yeah but what about road kill??? plop hot movie and with the CB slotting into the story line quite well.... sorry no sensable CB chat to add, apart from mine is a lot lot better since i moved the aieral as far away from the rig as is possible!

if you do however go here watch out for the fuzz hiding behind trees on the road out of town up to black rock sands, as they did me fo 35 there last month and the reason that "some man dressed in dark clothing jumped out on me with a gun so i was trying to get away" did not go down very well with the camoflaged officer either

yep and soon we will start calling pop 'soda' all have a 'therapist' and be looking under the 'hood' to check the oil!

could it have been a relay for some spot lights, are they all dead? you could try (if you haven't already) test the cables to see if any become live when you turn the side/main beam lights on what about a split charger? it will be really easyto trace them there is a grommit in the top middle of the picture which pops back out under the steering collum with pretty good access all the way across the dash with the stereo and glove box out. or like two sheds says box off into a connector block strip tape up and forget.

had the same thing with mine earlier in the year when weather was bad sometimes need about 3 goes of turning ignition and letting the plugs heat up then knock it off and try again without actually trying to start the engine. got a new set of glow plugs from here they still on offer now has been fine ever since although the plugs i did take out looked pretty new and not had any problems with the recent cold snap or the various nights i have spent on very bleak cold country fields this year in my pikey van. dougie

yeah i spotted that one too and was quite interested to find out what the fuss was about but found the website has a fault and when put into google that leads you to another faulty page no prices, write ups pretty much nothing to be fair. try it here i hope its not my computer playin up again!

correct me if i am wrong, but can you not get summer and winter thermostats that will keep/show your water temp at different levels?? i have just found this out whilst changing mine as it seemed to start running a lot hotter but once i realised what had happened and it stays in the same position once its actually warm. and i have been informed seperatly that its better for the engine to run warmer??? again i,m only a very early beginner with very little experience but look forward to this thread progressing .

Defo going to have a bash on the euromillions tonight cause i want one of them it looks the dogs danglies alright, right off to get that ticket now.

i have the disco rock/tree sliders on my 96 disco from discoparts, they are pretty well made and he even welded on some extra 'nubbins' underneath for my jack to sit in cause the rock slider bit blocks off the round voids he puts in for the jack adapter. however a couple of his fixing holes needed altering/moving because the door gets in the way of the drill . And i also think these should have some sort of brace welding on off the actual chasis cause when you jack up off them(because the jack isn't being inserted in and through the sill it actually sits under the outer slider section) the whole sill flexes thus the doors will not open (when you reach in for the wheel brace!) as i found out to great frustration anyone else had this problem with these? you must have had to weld a brace in?? DAMN must learn to weld fast!! dougstar

i agree, bolt to the floor using something like this so can hide evidence in 6 months! i used 41x41 steel unistrut channel like this bolted to the floor with one of these now these are expensive on the links but can be picked up from you local electrical wholsaler(click me) for about a 40-50%reduction i however borrowed mine from work. anyway with all these in place and a couple of 45 degree fixings( for your side supports since canny fix to wall) from the same place a nice sheet of 25mm plywood from b&q bolted down to the top it is un-movable trust me. will post a couple of pics when i dig the bench out and be able to physically see it again. B)

what about 5 litres of your finest unleaded petrol and a big box of cooking matches?????

or do as i have done and run a 10inch strip of sticky back velcro (available off ebay about £4 for a metre) dont forget to add a little super glue to the velcro sticky side as it some times un-sticks itself!!

F%%k it i just spent the £17-50 at my local land rover dealer for the complete \CD including service manual body repair manual overhaul manual accessory fitting manual diagnostics workbook electrical trouble shooting 1994-1998!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! a really good buy on all accounts apart from the fact that i cannot copy it and i find it really difficult to sift through as nothing s in chapters all the discos together petrol diesel 200's 300's etc etc thanks anyway and if anyone knows how to by pass the copywrite side of this CD let me know and i,ll be able to post anything anyone asks for!!!!! regards dougie