eds

Still got a headache from the choice of tyres.... To replace my General Grabber TR's it will be more expensive than BFG AT ko's...... Is there much difference in ko v's ko2? MAlvern tyres want £117 fot BFG ko's Bathwick Tryes want £130 for General Grabber TR Cross Conti are £95 but with BFG being £10 more they seem expensive, esp as you trashed a set in 12 months James :-( Someone tell me what to do grrrr

Mintex discs and pads work for me too :-)

Tyres are making my head hurt.... I thought my general grabbers tr were supposed to have 14mm tread, where as I just spoke to Continental who said the conticrosscontact AT only has 8mm tread. 8mm seems nothing in comparison to 14mm. Can anyone confirm these tread depths? Thank you :-)

I failed the MOT on one tyre so am going to buy some more.... Currently on 235/85/16c general grabber TR which have done well...... at £89 delivered they seem quite chaep http://promotyres.co.uk/Tyre/4032344502090/General%20Tire%20Grabber%20AT%20235/85R16%20120%20Q/?gclid=CP2RrfKn4sUCFUH4wgodOzIAfw It lead me also to Continental Conti Cross Contact AT but there seem to be 2 variants, one with a c and one without, £88.50 or £111.09... http://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres/continental/conti-cross-contact-at/235-85-r16-120-116s-177841 and http://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres/continental/conti-cross-contact-at/235-85-r16c-114-111s-179620 What is the difference? Are there any other tyres I should consider, mostly road driving..... :-)

Hi I like you was nervous when I first got my Land Rover but in time it will all become familiar. Good idea to use diff lock from time to time to check it engages and disengages easily, but low box should not be a problem. Don't worry about revs, if it stalls no problem and if you rev too much you will hear it more! Don't forget the hand brake as it is not like a normal car. It is a transmission brake and might do damage to something especially if you are in low. Check all your oil levels, axles, gearboxes, power steering, clutch, brakes and engine.... Grease the props... All the answers are here on the forum.... use site:lr4x4.com in your search in google as it works better than the forum search. Have fun..... :-)

That ebay link leads to an ignition barrel....... I assume that is a mistake and not the same as the door locks. Am I right with part number MTC6503.

Unfortunately I'm not in front of the vehicle to know. It is a 1981 model. If I remember correctly it looks like a keyhole with black plastic rim. A bit like my rear door key hole on my defender 1993. I'm heading for the later version of the above recommendation. Not sure what the burst bit signifies. Any photos available? So I can try and see. Thanks

I am missing a front door key for my 101 ambulance, Which barrel do I need (is it a defender barrel?) and is it simple to change? Thanks

Cover it in a thick coat of waxoyl too especially between the bottom and guard where water settles.

Buy new wheel boxes, they come complete with adapter and are easy to fit :-)

I don't know about Pumas but if the set up is the same generally as mine you could consider rotating the wheel box spindle through 180 degrees to use new teeth, otherwise you might need new wheel box and drive cable. Saying all this maybe Pumas are different, but as nobody was answering I felt sad and put forward some thoughts :-)!

I would recommend a disco drop arm firstly. If not I would recommend bearmach parts as they are consistently good. After that allmakes oem and finally sometimes all there is is britpart oem. I would always avoid britpart basic stuff. Some people love genuine but normally it is not needed unless you are rich.

http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/94976/3860/glow_plug_resistor_def http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/whats-frikin-resistor-115300.html

The Rdx relay is better

You get a new flasher relay too

I wouldn't give a damn either if the stupid lamps actually held a bulb successfully. But I got sick of the bulbs melting the plastic not just once but time and time again. Every manufacturer too. Led lamps was the best upgrade although expensive.

I would not be able to run my wipers dry. I would not judge their performance or position whilst dry. Park them horizontal to please the eye and what you get at the edge is what it is. Mine when going well tend to overshoot the standard reaches. They are not easily understood!

One lip was removed ie cut off when I fitted mine else the screen pops out.

do you know your sweep angle wheel?

My 1993 110 go from horizontal in park to the edge of the screen perfectly. Can't see why yours would not.

If I had a new chassis one thing I would not put near it is waxoyl. It might look good for a week but it is prone to drying out and needing to be reapplied annually which is a pain. I would keep it bare and then you can see exactly what is what. Keeping the chassis clean would be the best medicine. If you want to coat your new chassis I would think to paint it in some por paint or such like whilst it is mint. Waxoyl is good for old rusty bits where there is a lot of water action such as protecting an outrigger on an old chassis. Generally rot is caused by mud sitting on the chassis holding moisture for long periods. A dry clean chassis will not rot.

It failed my mot :-(

Are you sure that is the right ladder. My ladder is box section and does indeed marry up as you describe. More interestingly brown church ladders are an mot fail as they obscure the number plate. There is a replacement ladder which yours maybe which has a window for the number plate.

Is it OK to have both filaments lit on high beam?

I had starter problems and it was the exciter cable that was the problem not the starter itself. Is your exciter wire nice, clean and firm?