need4speed

You've either been lucky or I've been unlucky. I had a set in my Capri and within 6 months they sounded like maracas.... Fitted genuine LR though they were pricey and all good 3 years later.

Just what are you implying here?

I can only imagine that Nige has seen his fair share of damaged boards due to cooling fan issues. For what other reason would he strongly advise against it? Especially as I would be paying him money to modify my board for me....

The RV8 is soooo simple to work on. To check rocker gear, whip off a rocker cover. Any rocker cover coz you can guarantee if 1 side is worn so is the other..... Remove the rocker shaft from cylinder head complete with springs/rocker arms. It's only 3 or 4 bolts. Once you have the assembly on bench you will see a split pin at either end. Remove these and you can strip the assembly to the point that you will feel if there is any unwanted play between rocker arms on shafts. Just be careful to note order parts are removed.

Maybe Nige will chime in. I'm maybe not explaining it right. I'm not great with vehicle electrics so it's not surprising.....

Holy thread revivals batman! You do not want to be replacing only 1 lifter on any engine ESPECIALLY rover v8's. The cam and lifters are usually replaced as a set.. At the very least I would change lifters as a set. Genuine ones of course. I would also be checking tolerances of rockers/shafts

Yeah but maybe it doesn't quite work like that when you have followed the standard MS wiring diagrams? Not sure. Either way, if that's what Nige recommends that's what I'll go with

He wasn't saying DONT do it. He was just advising not to. Fans draw large currents, and when they short / back feed, there will / can be a LOT of amps hunting for a earth - and a PCB board is a bad one !

Ok. So on the advice of Nige himself I'm going to use something else to switch the fans. Probably an X-fan..

Been thinking about how I'm going to control my cooling fans. I would like to control them via my MS ECU but for the life of me I can't remember whether or not I specified with Nige to add this feature to my board. Wondered if someone could tell from the pic below if I need to have it modified or not.

Who produced the system?

I won't ask....

I know he said cap, but I just thought it was the same thing. I did admit to knowing nothing about these engines.. Every day's a schoolday

Don't see how it could be a valve collet unless there was a broken valve spring? Also, how would that find its way to the sump without causing considerable damage on the way there? Though I may be talking nonsense as I know sweet fanny adams about these engines..

No no don't go crawling. I was just curious. I don't have an auto anyway

What are the dowels for? Sump?

Yep that's what I suspected Mickey. Haven't a clue why they're not there. Not only on my new block, but the one I linked a pic to as well. Strange. Still. Glad I caught it. Don't fancy the thought of wading through deep mud with that bung not in place..

No it wasn't a late block. Although it's brand new it isn't cross bolted. Think I'll be ok once I plug those 2 holes. Just seen some pics showing rear of engine and I remember the big core plugs being in place.

Alright lads. Alright.. I reckon I will use the sump I have already. Can't imagine that alloy sump being too cheap. Certainly not as cheap as two 60p plugs.. Fingers crossed that there isn't anything important missing inside bellhousing..

Nice looking sump. Would probably still need to blank the holes off though otherwise lots of oil would be finding its way into the flywheels/clutch area...

Don't know about the "Bosch" sump. What vehicle is that from? I know that the sump I have from an RRC doesn't cover it. Having a quick look this morning I've found that it looks like part11 below http://lrcat.com/#31/4/53348 Available from Rimmers http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-612898 What's worrying me now is that, seeing as I started with a brand new block, how many other things are missing? Kind of hard to check now the bellhousing is covering the rear of engine...

Also just found this... Which suggests that both the large holes my new block has should indeed be blanked.. Dunno how though?

Ok I found this. You can see the hole I mean clearly. About 10-12mm. Directly under the starter.

I will try and find a pic..

On trial fitting my starter I noticed a hole on the block under the starter. It's a factory hole around 10mm, not something peculiar to my block as its brand new. I made an enquiry over on the v8 forum and it was suggested that this should be extended to above the potential water line. I was wondering if any RV8 owners know about this issue? Should this hole normally have a blanking plug in? Does this need to be a breather at all?