need4speed

Meant to add that untidy birds nest cable routing sets my OCD off, so any pics of really tidy battery installations would be greatly appreciated..

Ive already got a fair bit of the wiring done. My attention is now being turned to the battery. The only cable ive got is the one that connects battery to fusebox under drivers seat (thanks PaulMc) I know I will need battery to alternator, battery to starter and alternator to starter cables. Is there anything ive forgotten? Oh and I'm using a Bosch 120A alternator if that makes any difference to wire size?

This has been done to death Not all parts are created equal, even if they are claimed to be "OEM". And I wish to highlight the previous quote marks... I'm not going to go into it all again but suffice to say if you want genuine buy GENUINE from a dealer. If you must buy from an online store, make sure it's a genuine part that will come in original, unopened LR packaging. And for the part you mention I would be getting the real deal... Edit: Disco drop arm conversion a very good idea. Genuine of course

The funny thing is, because of the tension of the moment nothing "happens" anyway. One time I had to see a doc about a lump on 1 of me plums that hadn't went away in about a fortnight. Thing is I was working away from home so it was any old doc that was available. Of course it turned out to be a stunning young woman that ended up having a fondle of my Crown Jewels.. Due to me sh!!ting myself about the prognosis I never so much as twitched.. When I first saw her i thought uh oh this could be trouble but I needn't have worried..

It's all very well doing a "because I can" project. But boy is it a waste of money.... I agree he should have started with an LS*

Likewise. You can guarantee one thing. They would be the best made bits of the LR.......

Why? Just.....why? I reckon I might be able to catch bits of big-end caps here in Kilmarnock....

Yep that's what I did as well. I even put a coat of matt black acrylic on top of the POR15 as well as I don't like the shiny look. Total overkill of course because under there it ain't gonna stay shiny for long

You forgot your hat....

£600 is a bit rich for galvanising the chassis. However if you don't want to galvanise I would echo the above comments on POR15. Sticks to bare metal like sh!t to a shovel. If your planning to keep the defender for a long time I would still be galvanising it. It will last waaay longer than any paint you mention.

I'm also in favour of galvanising. To be honest ive never heard of a chassis twisting due to galvanising. If the thing is so thin due to corrosion that it twists, it was past saving anyway. Flat, thin surfaces can distort but not a decent, repaired chassis.

I understand what you mean but it would make sense in a lot of ways. Not least for the fact that they sell as quickly as they're made. Because of construction methods JLR feel there isn't enough profit to be had here in UK. But if production was moved to a country where wages are peanut money, that might put a different slant on it.... Probably wishful thinking on my part.

Apologies if this has been covered somewhere and I haven't noticed... Was in my local LR dealers today picking up some bits and pieces. While I was standing waiting on the parts guy returning I overheard parts of a conversation between either 2 of the salesmen, or 1 salesman and a customer. I was right on the edge of audible range but could have swore I heard the LR salesman mention Defender (in its current guise) production moving to India. And no, he wasn't talking about the replacement, he was definately referring to the Defender we know and love.. Hmmmmmmm

Yep. Landrovers will do that to ya....... Seriously glad to hear your on the mend

As luck would have it I found the old unit. Sorted! Thanks Ralph

If it were me I'd be trying to find as late a td5 chassis as possible. More chance of it being in reasonably easy to repair condition. You will be wanting to get a GOOD welder to do the engine mounts for you. You really don't want chewing gum welding holding the mounts on.

1 word for BIG diesel power.. Cummins..

Just had a butchers. I have 2 spare td5 type oval washers but can't see any of the nuts I'm afraid. PM me your addy and I can send the washers if it helps.

I might have some spares in the garage. I will have a look tomorrow.

Yeah errrrm I don't have them anymore.... I stupidly assumed the new assembly would come with them. I should have learned by now when it comes to LR, assume nothing...

I bought a complete set of new genuine switches. But there seems to be 2 little bolts or screws that holds the windscreen wiper stalk (part number 8) onto the main switch that I don't have. Looking at the allbrit diagram it unusually doesn't show them. There doesn't appear to be any other way for the stalk to attach?

Good point. You will need v8 bellhousing and defender output shaft for the R380.

Thanks guys. Your posts are easing any concerns I have. HoSS I will be taking you up on that I will shoot you a PM when I get home later.

What exactly do you mean by "disco 300 running gear"? If your not planning to spend ££££ on a spanking new galv chassis, all you need is any decent chassis that used an R380 gearbox. The transmission mounts will be in correct place. Bolt engine and transmission together and temporarily mount transmission to chassis mounts. This then gives you the position to weld your engine mounts. Then remove engine and transmission. Repair chassis in usual places. Send chassis off to be galvanised. Job done.

Decided to start a thread on this in the appropriate section. Is purchasing products from foreign shores advisable? Even if the store is reputable? Shops like Equipe 4x4 might be ok seeing as they are within the EU, but I've seen some interesting products from a shop in Russia. However the site doesn't have an English option and trying to decipher the site is nigh on impossible as Google Translate is really struggling. Maybe it's because I'm using mobile version? Maybe I need to find someone who speaks Russian..