need4speed

Came across this when digging out some bits and pieces. Can't even see a LR logo on it but it was in one of my parts boxes... It's plastic, not rubber.

If stainless touches ally it WILL promote fast galvanic corrosion. Stainless fasteners are great (for non high-tensile applications) but they MUST be separated from ally. Otherwise the ally will practically turn to powder before your very eyes. As long as you make sure that the shank of any bolt/screw is covered in ptfe you will be fine. Same with washers. If you isolate the stainless washer from the ally by using a rubber washer as a kind of gasket between the 2 different metals you will be golden..

Which is exactly why I made the point of covering each bolt with ptfe tape. Also used rubber washers where ss washers would be up against ally.. Digressing a bit from op mind you.

That's a very good point that I forgot about. I did that to mine as well as every ss bolt ive used in order to try and prevent galvanic corrosion.

Don't think it matters too much. As James says I think it's more important you get it round the bolt holes

I believe they are, yes. I'm sure Ralph will be along sometime soon to confirm.

At no point did the op mention racing or trialling. And I have no interest in either. On/offroad grunt more important in my (and the majority of people's) book..

Neat idea. I like..

Well what exactly is the point? The OP wanted to know about how folk went about gaining big hp from td5 motors. Due to the fact that it's difficult, if not impossible to get BIG, reliable horsepower out the td5 without spending £££££, I (with tongue slightly in cheek due to op mentioning td5 specifically) mentioned the 6bt. And I stand by what I said: hp per £ nothing touches it...

I understand the weight argument regarding the cummins. But here's the thing. Ash went from having the lightest engine variant (all alloy RV8) to the heaviest. If anyone was going to notice really bad handling characteristics due to the engine swap, it would probably be him. Going from what I understand he wouldn't change back for the world. Just stick a winch and a few things in the back to even out the weight distribution....

Sound. And torque that pushes you into the seat..

HOG cynical? No. Never. I won't hear of it.... Oh and welcome to the fold!

Fair enough. Each to their own I guess. But all I can say is ive driven a good td5 and ive also driven a 6bt. I know which one that makes me think "ive got to build me one of these" It ain't the td5..

Again, speaking to Ash reveals no real world handling problems. It is a defender after all, not a Lotus Elise..

With 700 lb/ft of torque an extra couple hundred kilos makes absolutely no difference whatsoever...

I think Ashley (ash.witty) might have something to say about that.. Check out his thread. About 3 times as powerful as a good td5 and about half the money...

Got the battery to fusebox sorted. Regarding the others im unsure what the standard v8 routing is. I guess I will just have to route it as neatly as I can. Maybe get a few of those LR cable clips fitted somewhere.

How are these cables normally routed from the factory?

Cheers Mo

Because that's what I thought I needed. And if it hadn't been for PaulMc emailing me I would still think that's what I needed seeing as none of the wiring gurus on here have replied.. So the way I understand it right now I need a battery-fusebox, battery-starter, and starter-alternator.

That's hilarious and embarrassing in equal measures!! I bent my wookie!

Decided to go for 35mm flexible cables and a couple of bus bars from mobilecentre. That way I have some capacity for adding a few things in the future without cluttering up the battery terminals..

Thanks as always Ralph. Looks like it's YWB10027L im after..

As title. Part number needed for 1999 vehicle. I'm a little confused. According to RAVE this should be a Yellow type Siemens relay. But having a look on allbrit it shows a Green (changeover) type with part number of YWB10032L. Is there any difference between them?

Thanks for that. Looking at the auto electrics places it looks like I will be using 25mm cables.