need4speed

no takers?

I think it is standard though im not 100%. How do i check? Going by Ashcroft Transmissions method of identifying the box, its type 56A if that means anything?

Im in the process of retrofitting an RV8/R380 combo into a TD5 chassis. However the bulkhead that i have is originally from a 200TDi. What, if anything, will i have to do to the bulkhead in order for everything to fit together without, how shall we say..... 'foulage'... N4S

Looking for part numbers for mountings/brackets in order to fit above into TD5 chassis.. Thanks in advance.. N4S

Cheers Chris. I think the sw cappings are different to the van ones, as the part numbers are different..

Cant find hobsons. could you give me a linky...

Thanks for the advice guys. I now think ive found the capping for the tub. MWC3316 i think is the part number. Re the bulkhead, i may replace the corners. If i get someone to weld them is there any chance of distortion? Only the panels incorporate the top door hinge and if the job isnt good it could it possibly give me a major headache? Any second hand bulkhead ive seen is actually in a worse state than mine. Apart from the corner tops and a small hole in nearside footwell, its actually very good in comparison with others ive seen recently. Obviously id like new TD5 one but im afraid funds dont permit just now..

After inspection of my bulkhead i see that its not just a footwell that requires attention. Ive found rot on the top edge of the corners. The rest of the corners (where they usually go) is solid with no previous filler. As can be seen from the pics, a light rub with the flap-wheel has already seen it go through to a hole. It would be a shame to buy a whole repair section just for the top edges. What can i do? I dont want to just bodge it with filler because i'll always just be masking the problem. Secondly ive taken a look at the rear tub. I already have to make a repair panel for where it attaches to the chassis, but ive also noticed problems at the rear corners where the sidepanels are mounted onto. Again as can be seen from the pics a light flapwheel has it into a hole and i think if i continue it will all disappear including the mounting. Is there a repair panel available? If not, whats the best i can do?

Ive been told that dinitrol is better quality than waxoyl. Any thoughts anyone?

Aha! Now i see. I'll don the overalls and get to it as soon as ive bought the waxoyl..

Cheers. Just one thing. Why should i turn it upside down? Would i be correct in assuming that the point is to completely fill the bulkhead inside with the waxoyl? If so, how would i go about blanking off all the holes to stop the stuff coming out? Where do i put the waxoyl in?

Thanks for that. Would an etch primer be advised? Maybe do a better job of protecting against future corrosion? And what about the inside of the bulkhead - obviously the new footwell will be bare steel on the inside, and ive been told they tend to rot from the inside out?

I need to weld V8 engine mounts onto my TD5 chassis and wondered if anyone knows of a good mobile welder in the Ayrshire area of Scotland. I know its a long-shot but just thought id ask. I know a few people that can weld but there is welding and there is WELDING! Ive seen too many jobs that are dubious to say the least...

Just wondering if there is any guide on the best way to restore bulkheads. Due to the current price of new ones being the guts of a grand ive decided to restore my old one. The side pillars are both good and require no welding. The offside footwell is also good. Im going to have to replace the nearside footwell however. Obviously with funds being tight just now galving is out (this is what i would like to have done) so what are the other options for a lasting treatment after ive welded the new footwell into place?

Just wondering if there is a repair panel available for the rear tub where it is bolted to the chassis at the front. Ive attached some pics of mine. I think it may be better to replace with a repair panel if one is available. What do you guys think..

just had another look. its a borg warner transfer box. permanent 4x4. viscous coupling though. should i use this along with my V8 or swap to usual lt230? ideas peeps?

Where can the serial numbers for gearboxes and transferboxes be found. I know what numbers i need to look for i just cant seem to be able to find them on my gearbox. maybe its corroded so much i cant see them.. Also, is there a transfer box that only has forward/aft lever movement as opposed to the more regular forward/aft AND side-to-side lever movement?

Its for a 110..

As above. Looking for a pair. Very much like the look/quality of the southdown 4x4 items. Any others to be considered?

Personally speaking, i wouldnt be accepting it if it was dented. I know its a 'working' vehicle and not an aston martin but if you have paid the money you want it right...

The bottom edge (where they are held by the little bracket) of both my defender front wings is a bit corroded/chewed up. Can they be repaired or is it a case of replacing? Has anyone tried the ABS outer wings? How is the fit/finish against the wing tops?

Yep. That would be just my luck. Thanks for the reply though...

A few months back it seemed that new defender 110 bulkheads were plentiful in fleabay for around the £250 mark. Now that im looking to buy one soon i cant see any! Sure if i can afford to spend a grand i can get one but where has the supply of reasonably priced ones gone?

Jeeez. What have i started! Not liking the idea of it costing a lot to re-galv. We have got loads of time but not loads of money. Would it save expense if we took the appropriate breathing apparatus precautions and stripped all the external galv off ourselves, then got it acid dipped and re-galved? If we got all the external galv off, the company trusted to do the re-galving wouldnt even know it had been galved in first place so wouldnt charge us for 'double-dipping' (ooer)... Thoughts?

Thanks for the advice Nige. Dont fancy taking in a few breaths of cyanide... What about the actual re-galv process. Will the process itself take off the remaing original coating??