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Firing order etc ?? Yip I can see it Saving all these pages so I can keep studying them. I think going by the info so far, the first thing to do would be the crank pully removal and fit the 36:1 toothed wheel and VR bracket? Megajolt boxes on flee bay are about £190. Would this be about right? MOT is getting done as I type so fingers crossed Cheers

Keep em coming diagrams i struggle with to be honest but these ones are getting through. Pictures make life a whole lot easier

Wot a guy It's sinking in

Roger, do you know of any pics available to view for the MJ ? If I see pics I can get my head round these things better. Locations for wiring, HT leads, EDIS controller, and coil packs? Would be good to have an idea

Many many thanks for the input. Fridge you try to make my head spin round and round? I think I'll have a good read through the stuff I need to so I can grasp in my own head what needs to be done. A thread is a great idea and I could see that benefiting others in my position who are considering the same option. Benefits from jolting then? Reliability ? Waterproofing? Satisfaction? Am I right in thinking the megasquirt would control the LPG more efficently withless chance of backfires etc? At least now I know I have some Reading to do while the keek is on the TV at the weekend

I do really want to but not feeling confident on doing it I'll have a good read through the MJ site to find out in more detail what I would need etc. Coils from any year of mondeo etc or worth getting new ones for reliability reasons etc. Sensors?? Types of wire. I'll try get my head round it

Just some research needed then? How much would the system cost etc?

Thanks for the info. I like the way you casually say get megajolt the reason for the "spare" is that the one that's in it just now was taken from a disco 1 in a breakers yard So maybe spare was the wrong word, looks like I've got some Reading to do to get a better understanding of upgrading. Cheers

Ahh right. got a Bosch one in it now and does seem to be running a but stronger and firing better. Think I'll get another one as back up just incase. Cheers for the info

So after discovering today that my coil is a goner. A mate recommended thinking about an uprated coil to give a better spark as I also run on LPG. Can someone shine a light on where to get an uprated coil and if there may be other issues with replacing the normal one?

Give that man a cigar !! Brown wire looked connected but when touched it broke off in my hand. The coil was on it's way out too as it turns out. When I reconnected the wire with new ring connector and started to tighten the nut to the coil terminal, the terminal broke in two and liquid leaked out. So the coil has had it. After ringing many landy friends I managed to source a Bosch one from a disco 1 v8 which was in a breakers yard by luck thanks for the help

So went to fill up with LPG today. Drove off and pressed the button to switch over from petrol. It never clicked over and the little Amber light was flashing. It's a single point system with whatlooks like 3 solenoids on it. One on the vapouriser. One in the front corner of the engine bay and one on the tank. It usually switches over when I give it a slight rev and can hear the solenoid click. The flashing Amber light usually stops flashing and is solid along with the 4 green lights indicating how much fuel I got. If I hold in the button, the flashing Amber stays on solid but makes no difference. MOT next weekend Thoughts guys??

Other side was much easier due to all the help given . Ring out job done

Cheers The garage have made sure it was tight on now after the info gained.

Right just been on the phone to him and he says his gaitor moves up and down and can spin it round so it's just sitting on.

Posting on behalf of my mate. To cut a long story short he's paid the garage £105 for fitting new ball joint on the drop arm. After the garage failed it on the MOT. The gaitor is loose after the work and he wants to know if this is the norm or should it be tight fitting?? He's going back tomorrow morn and wants some back up to make sure they get it done right. What do you guys reckon? Should he insist on it being done different? Cheers in advance

That would be interesting to see the full RRC in 3D. (not that i rate 3D) Are you devloping a program or in the process? :!

Thought I'd share the finished article. When followed the LR4x4 manual for this job I'd just like to add the shaft on my RRC didn't allowed the flange bolt in the end as the flange bolt is too big. Had to use a much smaller thread to get the shaft out enough for the circlip to be put back on.

well it's off. !!! ya dancer !! Tightened nuts up a little and gave it a lil tappy tappy. Got big hammer and gave the side of the disk a few hundred slaps. Undone nuts........ Fell out !! now just need to wait til the snow and force gales go away and I can get on with finishing the job. Thank you people !!

Ok cheers guys !!! Will get the nuts tightened a bit and try lever it against the hub. Bigger F O hammer at the ready too

Trouble is I can't get anything in enough to lever it. The only real way to persuade it is with screw driver and hammer.

Cheers. Only bolts are on it are the studs with 10mm nuts on them on the other side of the disk. Off down to the motor factors to see if they have plusgas in.

Defo not bolts in the ring.

Are we talking bolts actually on top of the ring in picture 1 ? It's mainly the grooves that have mud in them but I don't see any space for bolts. The five nuts have been loosened as in picture 2.

http://www.toolshopdirect.co.uk/item.php/site/froogle/sn/PLG803 take it this is the job ? Soak it over night?