DC_

Nice one david,

Cheers Geoff, will bear that in mind if/when i do them at some stage.

Cheers Easy enough job ??

Just out of interest, how easy would it be to replace the seals and where would be a good source to get them?

Is it like a kinda grinding metal to metal noise?? Can you hear it tapping when idle?

now i'm really going to follow this thread with detail. LPG will make your engine hotter when running. This will expand the cylinders more and will make the noise louder?? If you run it on petrol for a while, say about 25 mins or so, does the tapping go away? If you round around at 30mph does the tapping stay away? does the tapping return when you make the engine work harder say at 50-60mph? One theory might be that when on LPG the cylinders expand more but also as it burns cleaner, there's no deposits to "block" u the leaky gasket. So it it goes quieter on petrol this might be the case. Hope that helps David, Keep us informed.

David, yes as the lads say exhaust manifolds, sounds very similar to tappets. Are you on LPG or petrol? When it heats up if your on petrol, it's been suggested that the build up of carbon deposits may plug the leaking slightly and this is why maybe it's less noisy. Get it off, get some asembly paste on it with new gasket and hopefully that'll be it gone.

Done anything recently with the manifolds? Could be a leaking gasket, sounds very similar to a tappet.

Just been down, started up no probs, sounding good. SPARKS i tell ye SPARKS !!! Coming from the solenoid starter department. So at least there's a big clue.........................Lead from ALT to solenoid faulty??

Cheers Fridge, just waiting til it's dark here until i go down and fire her up and see if there's any NON friendly light ups. New battery last weekend,. new ALT in March............

I never see any posts regarding Disco faults or defender faults as i don't subscribe to them and i rarely go into them, so hence the reason for posting in different sections.

Thought i'd post this in a few sections as i know there maybe similar faults............. Alright guys, thought i would post this as no doubt there might be a few thoughts. Sigh........................ Took the RRC for it's first test drive after getting it running again after the wires fried last weekend. So, after starting it after we sorted it, it started and ran fine in my opinion from what i am used to. However, starting it tonight it took 2 turns which is unlike it. Then fired up but reved up a bit higher than normal before spluttering and coming to rest back to normal revs. When i started the run it did chug a bit. So, getting onto the main 60mph road towards the next town,i got to about 55mph then it started to cough and splutter then cut out. Battery lights never came on straight away but after about 15-20 secs they did. So managed to roll into the side safely, Checked if it would crank over which it did, then checked all wiring for anything suspect. After a few mins i tried again, nothing, like it wasn't getting either a spark or fuel. Had a little wiggle round at the coil and checked all fuses for fuel but all seemed fine. Tried her again, and she fired up, but this time it sounded better with no coughs. So, got to the next town and sat in line at the traffic lights, few mins later,after setting off, the battery light came on. Drove for about a minute, and it went back off. Then came back on and stayed on until i got to a car park. Took out the multi meter while it was running and the battery wasn't getting the 14 volts as it was when Nick tested it during the week after getting it up and running again. Tested the volts coming out of the ALT, and still only 12 volts. One thing i did notice was the ALT was very hot indeed, i don't know if this was due to the LPG cooling pipes being a little close to it, or should it be that hot?? So went into the shops for about 20 mins. Came back to start her up and she did. Battery light was out and the multi meter was reading 14 volts now coming out and getting to the battery??? Blooming landies i tell ye !!! Drove 7 miles to get home and all was fine......................... I think I'm for getting rather pi$$ed tonight I'm going to replace the wire from ALT to solenoid as i think this may have been damaged or on its way out? Got another coil that i'm going to try also incase the one on it has been damaged and isn't performing under load? New ALT by the way. Don't know if they nice AA men wired it up correctly when they changed over the old one?

Alright guys, thought i would post this as no doubt there might be a few thoughts. Sigh........................ Took the RRC for it's first test drive after getting it running again after the wires fried last weekend. So, after starting it after we sorted it, it started and ran fine in my opinion from what i am used to. However, starting it tonight it took 2 turns which is unlike it. Then fired up but reved up a bit higher than normal before spluttering and coming to rest back to normal revs. When i started the run it did chug a bit. So, getting onto the main 60mph road towards the next town,i got to about 55mph then it started to cough and splutter then cut out. Battery lights never came on straight away but after about 15-20 secs they did. So managed to roll into the side safely, Checked if it would crank over which it did, then checked all wiring for anything suspect. After a few mins i tried again, nothing, like it wasn't getting either a spark or fuel. Had a little wiggle round at the coil and checked all fuses for fuel but all seemed fine. Tried her again, and she fired up, but this time it sounded better with no coughs. So, got to the next town and sat in line at the traffic lights, few mins later,after setting off, the battery light came on. Drove for about a minute, and it went back off. Then came back on and stayed on until i got to a car park. Took out the multi meter while it was running and the battery wasn't getting the 14 volts as it was when Nick tested it during the week after getting it up and running again. Tested the volts coming out of the ALT, and still only 12 volts. One thing i did notice was the ALT was very hot indeed, i don't know if this was due to the LPG cooling pipes being a little close to it, or should it be that hot?? So went into the shops for about 20 mins. Came back to start her up and she did. Battery light was out and the multi meter was reading 14 volts now coming out and getting to the battery??? Blooming landies i tell ye !!! Drove 7 miles to get home and all was fine......................... I think I'm for getting rather pi$$ed tonight I'm going to replace the wire from ALT to solenoid as i think this may have been damaged or on its way out? Got another coil that i'm going to try also incase the one on it has been damaged and isn't performing under load? New ALT by the way. Don't know if they nice AA men wired it up correctly when they changed over the old one?

Steve details of car are on my sig matey She's a 92 K plate. It was mentioned that they were also unsure if there is a fuseable link on the RR, as it was a disco 1 they had. So still unsure why the power has totally gone.

OK, after doing a bit of reading, research and bugging folks. I'm now gona check earth connections from starter motor. Can anyone confirm if my Truck would have a fuseable link in the wiring loom? It's been suggested that this may have either, corroded, or melted. So at least i have a few leads.................................god dam, sound like the CID

Hello again to you all. It seemed for a while everthing was good with the RRC. After completing the MAC 4x4 Challenge in March, and a new altenator being fitted by those nice men in yellow all seemed well. Went a trip last weekend and a couple of times the battery light came on but then went off again within a few mins. So i was planning on cleaning all the solenoid connections today for my forest run that's on tomorrow. Started the job yesterday evening by losening off the connections on the solenoid but decided today to go get fuel first before doing the job on it. So, i tightened up the connections again and went to start her up. Ignition lights came on ok as usual, then when i turned it over, the starter cranked over but there was a crackling noise and when i looked, there was smoke coming from the solenoid and the coil. The negitive battery lead was also very warm. I only cranked it for a very very short time and now there is nothing. No lights on ignition nothing. I inspected the wires and checked all the fuses i could find. The live wire on the solenoid was toast!! So having tried to nip the scorched end off and reconnect. There is still no power at all getting through. I know i will need a new live wire but i need help on the main problem. Some-one mentioned there may be a fuseable link somewhere but i'm unable to find it. Is there any other fuses anywhere that could be blown? Very depressed DC

http://www.calmac.co.uk/islands.html Should help you out in your search. Staying in the west of Scotland we're only 30 mins away from the start of the fantastic scenery at loch lomond side and Glencoe is only a wee jont up the road. Off camping in Glencoe next weekend so hoping for good weather

Cheers Steve. If all else fails i at least have a few options now.

Cheers Fridge. To be honest i'm kacking myself everytime i turn the Stud/bolt. I've put a good few washers on it to make it just slightly (very) longer than the original UNC's that are in. Give us a loan of your magic wand and i'll post it back to you

Hi Steve, stud/bolt will keep turning even when fully home and will not tighten. Suggested that the Helicoil option would be a total nightmare to get the drill into the head as there is very little room there. I'm using the UNC 3/8 Update so far. Tried a longer stud/bolt to see if it would make a difference. Don't really know if it was slightly larger but it did tighten. due to lack of time, i only managed to check half the studs to make sure they were all tight. After a test drive on the LPG it started ticking again after about 6-7 miles. So, after a lil inspection, i noticed the manifold to Y piece isn't fully home, so that's another job i'll need to do after i make sure the studs are all tight. Will also inspect the gaskets if this fails.

Update: Now believe it is actually the leaking manifold to head. After doing 1200 miles on the MAc 4x4 Challenge. I noticed a pattern developing. When on petrol, there was no ticking, when on gas, ticking returned. So, looks like there is a stud to head that won't tighten fully, looking into the engine bay from the front, it's on the right hand side (where the ticking is coming from) Stud won't tighten fully so this may be the cause. The gas would expand the the cylinders and exhaust more due to more heat from burning on gas...............................i'm sure one of you guys in the know will correct me if this is not right. So..........................need to try a few things to get that stud tight. Longer stud? Suggested re-drill and re-tap? (much more of a barstewart to get it drilled) chemical metal to hold stud in place and put a nut on it? Your thoughts again greatly anticipated. DC

If the lifter treatment fails then i'll prob go for the flush and then the new oil. Would be eager to get feedback on the type of oil though. Seems there's alot of different opinions. Many thanks for the responses so far folks. Appreciate them all.

Howz the ticking now PUX? Been reading up on tappets etc as my 3.9 V8 has started ticking. Used 20/50 mineral oil recently in a service and thought this would cure it. It went away for a few days but returns now and then. Added Hydraulic valve lifter cleaner to see if it will help. So fingers crossed. Good to read though that it may be ok for a while as i have a 1600 mile challenge coming up in March. I can deal with it after that if i really need to.

Was it a fix then?

Guess it's auto shop for me tomorrow then and give it a go. If it works i'll be a happy chappy. Got a 1600 mile trek coming up in a couple of weeks. Many thanks for the responses DC