DC_

The bolts aren't in they're out. Just not shown in the pics. So, in theory can we use four longer bolts through the vee pulley to the damper on the puller set?? If they're just holding them altogether there wouldn't be much point in using the four holes??

Ok think we're Gona try the heat method, thinking of putting a wet rag round the back of the dumbbell at the shaft to maybe help protect it it a little whilst heat is applied to the Pulley. Here's a few pics from yesterday...... As you can see, the coolant wasn't looking great (if there was any coolant at all !! Here's the culprit... The bolt we got from another 2.5 round the back of the shed from a transplant a few years ago on the mates 90. He's got the 200 TDI in it now (lucky sod) This is the set up as we left it.... So I'll let you know how it goes today !

Did you see what the problem was? Rusted on?

Back home with cold one in hand and thinking...... If I can get my hands on a heavy duty puller set (large set) it might just be enough, don't know how I can smack it in the opposite direction though? Is Penol readily available in motor factor stores? I don't think i'll risk the brake fluid as it's very corrosive right? It's got my puller set on it just now as tight as we dare, it's got a mixture of WD and Acetone and ATF. (Don't ask) so I'm hoping the overnight soak and energy might work. Thanks guys for the advice so far, greatly appreciated as usual.

Still trying.... Poor signal too

Yep pulling on centre hub. No sign of any botch job elsewhere. Hmmmm weird. Might just need s bigger pulley set. It's stuck on for sure

No signs of welding as we suspected this too. Don't want to try the other persuading methods, over night soak in the WD and try again tomorrow maybe?

Posting this as we're working. Doing the timing belt and the water pump on a 1987 ex army 110 2.5 n/a. Weird this is there was no crank bolt to hold on the pulley!! Now we have the puller set on the pulley but it just won't budge. The puller is "just" wide enough to work and granted a bigger set would be ideal. Any thoughts on what else to do? DC

Update..... All seems fine selecting low range and diff lock, it seems to go in easy when traveling about 1-2 mph. Still doing jobs to it and making it better and better. Next weekend is the timing belt and water pump (I've read doing the pump is a serviceable item so might as well) Service done and the oil leak from between the engine and gearbox seems to be far less. I think there was too much oil in it in the first place. Transfer box seem to be dribbling. Is there a known seal fault on these? Also, the hazard warning switch seems to be missing? Did these vehicles have them as standard? Sorry for the questions, still finding my feet with the 110

Yes try keep calm as getting angry and frustrated does no good at all and will only "get their back up" I'd politely tell them you are giving them the benefit of the doubt and the chance to rectify the very poor service (what it sounds like), before the need for trading standards to get involved. Good luck, keep us posted.

Check also all your wires, make sure they are clean and nothing out of the ordinary. Also check the solenoid connections. Might be a loose or poor connection. Worth while while you're at it, clean all earths.

Ok, old lever was in the boot when bought, one on said range on the back. So assuming it's off a donor. Might still be the lever if it wasn't tested. Think the way forward is a tested lever?

Ok, bulbs have been seen working, when you pull lever towards yourself they work. When you push lever away from you they don't stay on constant full beam. (Yes dipped beam is on at this point) So the problem is lever?

Thank you ! Instrument pinnacle off just now, looking for relay. I'm sure he would have checked fuses. Will check back in......

The main beam on the headlights aren't working. I've got two different possibilities. 1). The relay faulty? 2). ECU ? It was the search on tinterweb that suggested ECU but, I thought my trusted forum will solve it. And yes the old cliche, it's for a friend ? It's a 93/94 200tdi

So select low range, push far left and hold?

Evening guys, haven't been in the Landy world for a bit, but I am now back with a new addition to the family. New challenge for me after being used to the 3.9 V8, now I need to familiarise myself with the 2.5 N/A diesel. So far so good (it's only been two days!! ) She was Army fire service, someone decided to off-road her for a wee while, but thankfully I got my hands on her before it went on too long. I'm going to keep her as original as possible and over the years and bring her back up to a well,deserved standard. ( it'll take time but can't wait!) Already knew about the cold start procedure and works very well. Very little smoke on start up and after a gear change for the first 5 mins there's a little bit of smoke. Clears after that. High low range seem to be fine (steep driveway) although I don't know how to get into diff lock. I was advised the bulb may need replaced for it too. All dash lights work, already taken the Sh*t sports steering wheel off and put the original back on. Fan works but I think I could blow faster ha! All lights work and are military spec. ( I really like them) every single thing seems to work. It's been painted a desert sand but my intention is to go NATO green. I prefer this to the fire service red. So just thought I'd introduce the new addition the the best landy forum around.

That's appreciated thank you

Afternoon, Could you tell me if a discovery 1 axle would be a straight swap for a RRC ? It's a TDI 1994 Cheers !

My chassis is a JA ..... Yes I suppose this is possible. my heads thumping. I'll sleep on it and do more tomorrow. Cheers

http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/88946/5497/oil_cooler_pipe_3_9efi_auto_rrc__fa

Nope, this is the closest I can find but was hoping someone would confirm it..... NTC5620 also britpart showing at £76.

Yeh I see the same. I'll try get a picture up tomorrow of my pipes. These are not the same connections as mine.

Don't see any of those part numbers matching my pipes. They all have the same pipe diagram that's in your previous diagram. I don't have O rings on my pipes either

Thanks again duncmc But, ( I hate a but) this looks like 300tdi oil cooler pipes? The reason I say is the ends don't look the same as mine. Mines are tapered and I'm sure the pirtek guy told me they are half inch bsp female connections for my V8 3.9. I've seen second hand ones on eBay along with the oil adaptor which look like mine. I have "the fear" that its not Gona be cheap