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Lunch break and time to reply, Thanks for the info guys, will try source where to get the CV's and gaskets and shipped pronto sharp!! 12 days to get this done..... I've got bearing grease, one shot, locking washers and I'm sure a hub seal too in my spares. Do I need RTV? (just order it with CV's?) ABS sensors scare me so I'll be very carefull round about that. As this is the first drive and I REALLY don't want to miss it, I'm worried that due to time I might struggle. If I were to make sure it's got plenty of one shot, would I be able to get through the drive (two days) or would this cause even more damage? Thanks again, need to run as my Learners are wanting their driving lessons ;-)

Nuts !! (For want of a better word) CV's easily enough to replace? I've had a look through the manuals, "Les" does a write up for replacing the full swivel (challis), but I can't remember seeing CV's being referred to. Not got time just now to search the tinternet, I seen CV's on JGS4x4 at £27 each. Do I need any seals/gaskets? Sorry never done CV's before Thanks for the comments so far.

Before resorting to my local grease monkey, and after checking bearings, I thought I would post here to see what your thoughts are. RRC 1992 Auto V8. Has just, in the last few weeks started clicking clunking from the front wheels when I emerge from the drive or anywhere else when i turn left or right. It doesn't seem to do it when straight. Wheel bearings ok..... Loose brake pad on drivers side sorted after discovering a sticky piston (well hopefully sorted) so now after two and a half years of not being allowed in our forests, we are allowed with supervision, back in..... I have 12 days to sort this. :-( Rang my good grease monkey and he reckons it could be wear in the swivel? I have noticed a very small leak of EP90 from the seal at the swivel and was thinking to replace with one shot.... Don't think we've ever had 2 weeks of 30 degree heat in Scotland so was thinking this may thin everything down and leaked more than norm? Help is appreciated guys!

Thanks again to this forum for the invaluable info ....... Having read a few threads I rang footman James direct, they called me back with an original quote of £313 I explained performance direct offered £276 ( this had shot up nearly £100 in the space of two years with no claims etc)...... they called back again and offered £230 Then when PD found out theirs went down to £238 !! So when I rang FJ back, they explained that their policy was with breakdown cover, legal expenses, and FULLY COMP, I snatched their hand off at 2pm today lol :) £230 ain't too bad fully comp with all my mods on it

Don't know if this will help but good source for future jobs etc...... http://www.landroverresource.com/docs/rangerover/Range_Rover_Manual_1992.pdf

91 I think was right on the change over with models, I had an older unit that I acquired from a mate. I'm sure it's still in the garage somewhere, so I can have a look if you still need the info and give you an idea of where your looking

I'm sure the wires for the resistor are linked directly to the heater unit itself. In the rave/manual it says the resistor is behind the bonnet grill (the ones next to the window) passenger side one (uk). Simple enough to get off etc. I had a thread not long ago on it. Try searching my threads

Google PRC8010 Images Your resistor pack replacement should be there?? This is the new packs connectors..........(above) The old resistor (left) and new one.........

I'd use thread lock on the two bolts securing the caliper .........

Shouldn't be a prob It's all about the driver

Are you planning to off road it? Standard shocks will do but if your offroading it you might find you'll "cock a leg" as the shocks won't travel too far. Mines still runs front shocks as standard but rear ones are +2"....". Easy to fit and not too expensive, well worth while

You may find it heats up a bit easier now under load as mines does, but apart from that not sure what else as mines has been (crossing fingers and toes) running ok

Mines came off no bother when I was driving through the forest on a charity drive and rubbed against a tree

Hope this helps, not sure if it gives you it in great detail http://www.landroverresource.com/docs/rangerover/Range_Rover_Manual_1992.pdf

Cheers, I'll have a better look tomorrow as its still confusing me. I'm sure the UJ I have just now is 75mm (HS161) and it's the same size as the diameter of the shaft itself

Looking for the correct part number for my UJ on my propshafts I have a hardy splicer which I thought was the right one but it's too big.

Thanks for the reply blues It's defo brake fluid, weeping seal, spent the weekend exploring it, and was at a mates who knows his stuff. New seal may be the way to go considering I've got the ABS brake booster assembly unit It's not too bad just now......

Well they say it comes in three's so this must be the next thing. Discovered a drip behind the brake pedal and it looks to be a leaking piston seal? The rubber boot was quite full so it must have been leaking for a while I suspect. Didn't seem to be losing brake fluid though So help needed to fix it. How big a job is it? I've never done brake servo/piston work before so am a bit scared. I'll be outside with a cuppa scratching my head.............cheers guys Charlie

The unit I got as a spare had a smaller resistor unit inside the casing also. It was on a bracket riveted to the inside of the blower casing plate. Mines is a 92 RRC so I'm not sure the second smaller resistor is also inside my casing. So is anyone able to advise on whether blower replacement can be done with it incased in the unit itself?

Another wee update......... Located a whole 2nd hand heater unit with blower and matrix in it although it's not an exact match as mines has air con too. So decided to try and dismantle that so I knew what to expect if I was swapping over the blower from my unit. Well.............. What a bloo** job! To try an prise the unit apart to get to the blower, so decided to go in from the side as the unit has screws on the side plates. I have no idea how to get the blower from inside that moulded casing apart from using Land Rovers favorite tool the hammer which I decided against. Was wondering if the next bit of the story is significant or not. Whilst inspecting the blower inside the casing I was trying to figure out what may be failing. Remembering that after fitting the new resistor pack the blower only turned on setting 2 & 3. So decided to get the front grill off and spray some lube on the part of the blower motor that visible. After 20 mins or so I tried the switch again and it now turns on all 3 settings !! So after summing up what's involved I decided to live (for the time being) with the noise from the blower.

Mines has got 2" scorpion racing springs and pro comp +2" Shocks, dislocation cones on the rear fue to the shocks but to be honest when i had my normal shocks on the rear, it done ok. Normal shocks on the front.

25 litres left when the ligh comes on?

That kinda makes me feel a bit better as I even had her indoors out standing on the bumper getting her small hands into the grill to fit the resistor pack and plug the connector together

When ye take the plate off?

What's not there?