Snagger

My Jackall 5' sat on its brackets on the bulkhead without removing ts base. It had to be installed the right way around of course, with the lifting handle lowermost and "jaw" pointing up, and the side with the pins facing forwards. It now resides along the side of the load bay, with the main bulk of it under the second row seat (which is a Defender front seat mounted on the wheel arch top and a special upright inboard) - they do fit there without protruding above the wheel arch top.

Out of curiosity, what is the temperature sender in your top hose? Rad fan triggers go in the bottom hose or the fans will run all the time instead of only when the rad can't cope without fan assistance. Not an issue until you can get enough cooling anyway, but just wondering if that is what the sensor is.

That's what I has in mind. Why not make up a cardboard shroud to try it out, and if it works, then either make up a proper one, adapt a cheap shroud or splash out on the 50th ANN part.

Looking more closely at the photo, I see you have the long nose. But I also see that you sited the transmission cooler in front of the aircon condenser. I'd fit a steering guard and mount the transmission cooler as high up under the cross member as possible to move the rad and condenser forwards to their proper positions so you can fit the proper fans and shroud from a V8 Defender.

What rad panel does it have? The standard flat nose, or the protruding aircon equipped protruding nose? You need more airflow like Nuts said. I hadn't noticed the earlier mentions of aircon - between that and the other coolers, you have far too much in there for those meagre electric fans to deal with. You need the viscous fan and electric booster fans on the front like LR did, and if you have the flat nose, getting the protruding nose is how to fit it. Using a 200Tdi left outer wing would allow you more ventilation, and removing the bonnet rear seal from the bulkhead may make a small difference. Wrapping the manifolds in exhaust wrap may bring under bonnet temperatures down a tad and help the block shed a bit of heat. You could try running with the bonnet removed (or just open) to see if it helps with temperatures, and that'd give an indication of whether putting vents into the bonnet may help, but it's going to start looking ugly. However, I think it's more a problem of a lack of air through the heat exchangers than exhausting the engine bay.

It wouldn't be for a Hi Lift type jack (farm jack) - it'd be for the basic tools, bottle jack, wheel brace and such that the vehicle would have left the factory with. You can fit a farm jack there, though, as long as it is the right length; I used to do just that with the brackets that came with the jack bolted to the bulkhead. It does have to be mounted as low as possible to avoid interfering with the seat adjustment.

But this is my point - bigger diameter pipes don't remove the exhaust gas faster, they do it slower. It's very simple thermodynamics. There is a diameter that gives the best compromise between exhaust gas pressure and velocity for a given mass of gas, and like I said, if you reduce the velocity, you increase the pressure. A tuned engine will shift a bit more gas than the standard version of that engine, so yes, a bigger pipe will help, but it doesn't shift a lot more gas, so you mustn't increase the diameter much either or you will suffer a performance penalty. The manufacturers don't chose exhaust diameters by accident.

I thought the same thing initially, due to the curvature of the roof and shape of the window - I suspected fibreglass. But there is a line through the reflection to the left that looks like a heavy weld that made me doubt it...

I went from ATF Dextron III to MTF84 on my R380 and it was a big improvement. DIfflock also do an oil for it, but I can't remember anything other than that it was shockingly expensive!

It looks, as Mav said, to have a difference in the seal housing and nose. It also looks like there may be a very small difference in exterior length, though it could be the protective mesh making the gen part stand taller or a photographic effect. Like I said, those seals do far more harm than good, so I'd whip it out and use them both without any concerns about the differences - the interior nose doesn't impinge on anything.

Looks nautical.

Stub axles should be the same from side to side. What are the slight differences between the two rear stub axles, other than one having a seal pre-fitted? As for those seals, I'd recommend fitting the stubs with the seals removed - it keeps the wheel bearings and half shaft/drive flange splines lubricated. Just use a smear of RTV sealant on the plastic hub centre cone.

That bottom hose is too hot - the rad isn't cooling the water properly.

I'd be surprised if they weren't, but you may need new bushes as the bar diameter may differ. Can you not get them to measure the diameter and length on both axis to see if the match yours? I'm sure they'd do that for you.

Given all of the above, if replacing the water pump didn't work, then I reckon on the rad. New doesn't guarantee "good", and you could have a lot of blockages in there from poor construction.

Well, the diameter of the pipe will affect the relationship of pressure and velocity - increase one and the other decreases (basic thermodynamics). If you increase the diameter of the exhaust, the velocity of the gas will reduce, and that causes an increase in pressure. An oversized exhaust will cause stagnation of the exhuast flow, which in turn causes back pressure, so it would cause a performance reduction, turbo charged or not. The diameter of an exhaust is far more critical than most realise, and is a function of the mass of gas flow, the length of the exhaust and egt, amongst other things. I'd stick to the standard 2.5" for a standard Tdi and up to 3" for one with all the tuning options like big intercooler, higher boost, fuel tweaks and VNT, but certainly no more. That's what cherry bomb exhausts do - they are so wide that they bring exhaust flow to almost a stop, increasing the back pressure until it pops and repeats that cycle - it sacrifices significant engine performance to do it, too.

Doug makes a good point, not as daft as it sounds - when I did my Tdi retrofit, I had to use an electric fan. I ordered a "puller" to sit behind the rad. The fan arrived in a box labelled "puller", and the instructions stated it was a puller. I did notice that the camber on the blades was the wrong way around, so I flipped the rotor over and fit the unit. The first time the engine had to work hard, it nearly overheated - it was a pusher and was trying to blow against the ram flow from vehicle motion, reducing rather than increasing rad airflow. Swapping the polarity of the two wires tot he fan motor solved all the problems. So, just because the fans are labelled as pusher or puller, it doesn't mean they are as claimed - check the airflow from each yourself!

Like I said, I have some doubts about that particular rad from the photos, but without seeing it in the flesh...

SII/SIII with V8, not with 2.25s or Tdis. It's certainly not guaranteed to be an issue, but it is the engine that has the most trouble with Series rads. That being said, it could be because the owners used tired rads, lower thermal capacity versions (three row), or didn't have an appropriate fan, but I have come across far fewer cries for help from those with four pots.

Possible, but it's also possible that the impeller is not secure on the drive shaft and is not spinning at full rpm. Given the cost of them versus the cost of a cooked engine, I'd suggest trying an OEM or genuine water pump if the other rad doesn't fix it.

Well, Adam001 said his struts work with a pretty hefty wheel on the bonnet. Whether they're guaranteed to is another matter, and I'd not want to be underneath the bonnet if just one of the struts failed, whereas a plain bonnet would just give a small bruise if the struts gave up, but I think they'd be a nice lifting assister for use in conjunction with a prop. Adam, where did you get yours?

The cab heater system is irrelevant - an air lock in there would make the heater useless, but won't affect the engine. I'm not sure that rad is up to much. It's not just the bottom edge that is buckled but the bottom several tubes. While their edges look fine, they may have crushed in the centre and restricted the water flow. But I'm more curious about its construction - it looks like two different cores stuck together - the lateral pipes don't match up either side of the vertical joint, and that may be causing a big restriction. Tdi rads are about the same size as SIII rads, and SIII conversions using the original rad often struggle with heat. I think that rad is your problem, in all honesty. I'd recommend using the V8 rad. As you can't get the cowl to fit the viscous fan, stick with the electric fans. But do make sure their thermostatic switch is in the bottom hose, not the top hose - they'll run continuously if it's in the top hose, but only when the rad isn't getting enough free flow air if you put it in the bottom hose.

In that case, I'd look into the normal running temperature of a Tdi, which I think is around 90oC (88o thermostat) and a V8, which will be warmer. If it's too close to justify the gauge readings, I'd take a close look at the water pump and get the coolant checked chemically for exhaust gas contamination - it'll show whether there is and exhaust gas getting in through a crack or bad gasket. Can you post up a photo of the rad damage? Your description makes it sound insignificant, but V8 rads are bigger than 19J and opinions and descriptions of damage are highly subjective.

Yep, my money is on the sender being incompatible with the gauge. You need the vehicle's original sender in the engine, and expect it to show slightly warmer than middle if you have converted from a diesel and petrols run a bit warmer. The engine's original fan will do a much better job of cooling the rad and engine than electric fans, as long as the viscous coupling hasn't failed "open", so I'd refit it as long as it is safely clear of the chassis and rad, and the rad cowl fits the V8 fan position. The only advantage with electric fans where an engine driven fan fits correctly is being able to switch them off for wading.

Fitting a Discovery 200Tdi to a 109 is a problem because of the turbo fouling the chassis, so I can see why people do it in that case. Removing the turbo saves the need for the intercooler and oil cooler, so you can just use the original rad and that in turn saves messing about with the front panel and arranging mountings and plumbing. It does however create extra work on the exhaust side. I wouldn't criticise either choice as both have their merits, and it is very much down to the owner and use as to which is most appropriate. All that said, I wouldn't bother with the transplant unless retaining the turbo - far easier to fir a 12J or gas a 2.5 petrol otherwise. DOn't forget that commercial bodied diesel vehicles are clobbered with Emission Zone charges these days, as well as road tax, where as petrol vehicles don't pay EZ charges and dual fuel vehicles pay less road tax (unless already over 40 years age, in which case being classed as "historic" precludes road tax and I think EZ charges too).