Snagger

I would only fit new bushes if you are keeping the existing suspension parts and going back to standard height - new bushes will be a nuisance to fit, remove and refit, and the bushes at the chassis end of each of the suspension arms will be permanently distorted but a lift without corrected arms.

Yes, but if the sliding tube is missing from the rear lug, the bolt won't be centred correctly in that lug, twisting the alternator case out of parallel to the crank axis and shearing the front lug. I'd put money on that or a mounting bracket alignment fault being the correct diagnosis for the failures.

Dave, all that black rubbish in the timing case is not external dirt, it's the rubber from the belt with small amounts of oil, fuel or water that has entered the case. Frankly, I'd expect more in the 19J case. That said, if there is a huge amount, then the belt probably wasn't changed on schedule.

I have a suggestion for where Chaz can put his broquettes, and it's not his fuel tank.

There shouldn't be a second bottom bolt, just one long one which runs through the front lug, the mounting bracket on the engine and out through the steel tube on the alternator rear lug. It is important that the steel tube can slide in the lug. Tap it aft before fitting the alternator, and the nut will tighten it up against the mounting. Make sure the mountring bracket is secure on the block - if that is moving, then it could cause the problems you're having.

The amount of fuel injected varies with throttle position and rpm, so the injectors don't always fire the same amount anyway. But the 12 and 19J share the same injectors and the same head, and I doubt the 15J is any different.

I agree with Les - the injectors will be the same. If the 15J pumps fits, use it; you know it works. If it doesn't, use the 19J pump and blank off the boost pipe port - it'll work like the 12 and 15J pumps without boost, the only snag being you don't know if it's in good condition.

It does need clearing every so often. Part of the problem is that the breather pipe connects to the intake pipe, so oil vapour builds up inside the intake tract. A separate catch tank would stop that.

Worth some thermal insulation for very cold winter use, but other than that, they'd only need the copper grease or vaseline on the terminals.

The seal that separates diff and swivel oils sits in the end of the axle tube next to a bearing. The stub axle internal seals keep the oil in the swivels (front axle) or rear diff away from the wheel bearings and drive flanges, which is a bad thing. So, replace the seals in the front axle tube if they're not in good order, but the stub axle seals are best removed.

N Not critical, as the water will fill the system as it expands, but it could conceivably cause air locks, so refitting a bottle would be wise. It needs about 2pt capacity and the hose to the rad neck needs to go to the bottom of the bottle so that it'' syphon the water back as it cools and contract.

The block of the 15 and 19J will be similar enough for you to transfer the studs and other fixings. There is only one timing belt kit that I'm aware of, and it'll fit both 12 and 19J as their timing systems are identical. I don't know anything about the 15J injection pump, so can't offer an opinion on whether it'll fit the 19J timing case, sprocket or injector pipes.

Good quality parabolics will give a 2" rise, or there abouts, with not other problems, as well as a better ride and handling on and off road. The only compromise is more body roll unless you fit anti-roll bars. If you fit 1-ton shackles, you also need to lower the front end of each spring by 40mm, otherwise you will end up with the prop shaft and steering geometry issues you already seem aware of. Welcome to the forum.

I think it only matters on the rear stubs with ABS, and you can only fit them one way with the sensors anyway.

No recommendations from Nige? I'm surprised you don't use ear defenders or plugs, Fridge. Just working on the one 109 with ear defenders when grinding or hammering hard has done a small amount of damage to my hearing (but then again, I suspect driving it and my work environment are responsible too).

DIN sockets are the same size as cigarette lighters, but rated to higher current, more secure in their engagement and usually have rubber caps to stop dirt getting in when not in use. That might not keep it entirely dry, so a quick spray out with WD40 after removing the cap would be prudent (it'd stop condensation corrosion, too). A switch i the feed inside the nearest door would prevent draining and also stop scum bags trying to short it out with bits of wire or scrap metal.

Age, or use (ie carbon build up)?

On my 109, I have them both in the tool box behind the rear left wheel. It wouldn't be hard to fabricate a mounting to do the same. My Lightweight was FFR, so had two batteries in the shallow tray between the front seats (Paddock are selling copies of them), but they still sat high up and needed a cover box that precludes a normal cubby box because the tray depth is limited by the transmission (might not even fit above the higher sited Defender transmissions). If it does fit, you could move everything else from the existing battery box into there for two batteries under the left seat. I like Fridge's idea and may well copy it to free up that rear locker. There is also space under the front floor panels, tucked up against the chassis in the same way, and you could fit hinged inspection panels to make servicing them easier.

There are only two likely reasons for repeated bulb failure. One is alternator over-voltage, as the others said. The other, more likely if you get repeated failures on one position but other bulbs are OK, is that you have a bad contact between the bulb and holder causing point heating, and leading to the element prong failing.

I wouldn't use seam sealer, as it traps water inside the joints better than keeping it out. I'd paint the panels up, then use a thorough application of thin cavity wax to penetrate between the lapped panels for rust protection.

There are several elements to it. Firstly, try to eliminate as much created noise as possible. Make sure engine and transmission mounts are in good order, the suspension bushes are good, fit isolation rings atop each road spring, use a sensible (not sports) exhaust and the least aggressive tyres appropriate to your vehicle operation. Make sure the engine timing and tuning is correct and that general maintenance is good to get rid of squeaks, rattles, rumbling bearings and so on. Second, you need to add mass to resonating panels or assemblies. Seal adhesive lead flashing from DIY stores seems popular with good reports. This lowers resonant frequencies as well as absorbing energy. Third, you need sound absorbent materials inside the cabin, and by and large these are synonymous with air and water absorbtion. Closed cell foam has the benefit of not soaking up moisture, but is far less effective at noise reduction than open cell foam as the vibrations penetrate the foam to be absorbed and reduced internally - they are reflected more by closed cell foam than open cell. This also applies to using rubber sheet or covering foam with vinyl; the most noise absorbent covering for the foam is carpet or cloth. Increased surface area and voids are also useful - look at anechoic chambers or theatres, cinemas and concert halls and they all have noise absorbent panels, cloth covered (as above) with hollow voids. The anechoic chambers have foam pyramids to increase surface area. If you don't care about appearance, bare undulating foam like used in packing cases is going to be the most effective surface you can have. Medium density foam will do the best job of absorbing and attenuating the sound, high density will reflect more of it, and low density will allow the sound to penetrate and be reflected by the backing surface without much attenuation by the material itself. S, reduce the eminated noise, then line the panels with lead flashing and seal any panel joins in the floor and make sure door seals and such work. Then cover in medium density foam, open cell where it'll stay dry and closed cell where it may get wet. The more surface area and hollow sections of foam you have, the better, and try to use permiable covering materials. The Wright Off Road matting system is a good product, and I have been pleased with the three kits I bought, but they are a compromise between sound deadening efficiency and robustnest. They are solid, so absorb little noise that has penetrated the cab and really just add mas tot he panels they cover. They do not absorb sound waves or attenuate them much - heavy carpet would do that better, but would also be harder to clean and soak up water, rusting foot wells. SO the best solution will depend on your vehicle, location and use.

I was thinking the same thing as Western - LLama hangover.

That's right, Charles Emberton at charlieccu@live.co.uk on 07940 190996 and ebay under charlieccu. He's a good guy, real enthusiast.

Most of it is a direct swap. As Les said, the 19J pump has a boost diaphragm. You could use that pump and just plug the boost pipe port, or use the 15J pump. So, you just need to fit the timing case and everything inside and in front of it to the 15J (pulleys and alternator mount), and use the 19J injector pipes. You will be able to buy a 12/19J timing belt kit and timing gasket/seal kit from any LR specialist (I always recommend Dunsfold LR if you don't have a favoured local)

Hazard lights should be controlled by a rocker switch above your knee, one of a bank of three switches.