Snagger

I can't help with that - mine is even more of a Bitsa than yours!

Correct. It's an air leak in the low pressure side, between tank and lift pump. Favourites are loose unions, the damaged olives, lift pump diaphragm and a perforated pick up pipe in the tank.

Looking really good, and sounds superb. What diffs are you using at the moment?

Hammerite smooth works well on engines.

Drilling a few large holes in the low spots would be better than cutting squares - circular holes don't concentrate stresses like corners do. I was about to recommend Rustmaster near Hatfield, who did a great job on my wife's 90, but a google search to check the name shows he's filed for insolvency.

That is true, but application is a factor - my filter is prefiltered by the cyclonic head and raised intake level of the snorkel, and the car isn't used in a very dusty environment. If I was to take the vehicle to a dusty environment, even with the snorkel, I'd temporarily use the standard filter that resides in one of the side lockers along with the other spare filters and lubricants.

It sounds like air being sucked into the system. Look closely at all the unions on the low pressure side, ie from tank to lift pump (inclusive). The olives on the plastic pipes from filter to lift pump can wear a ridge which prevents a seal even when the nut is tight, so upen those unions up for a visual check of the olives.

Now I have an image of you in S10 and full NBC kit!

Overdrives are only available for 1.4:1 LT230s, not 1.22:1, irrespective of the tooth geometry.

http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/easy-breathing/ Not only do K&N type filters not break down and tear with oil contamination, but the dirtier they get, the better they filter the air, especially if the dirt on the filter is moist, like oil. The amount of oil collected int here is small, the base of the canister just needing a wipe with a rag each service, but it keeps the rest of the induction system tract spotlessly clean.

I agree with Les. But it would originally have had a black head and sump, and terracotta block. The timing case, rocker cover, flywheel housing, injectors and so on would have been unpainted.

It normally does, to provide a small vacuum to suck the oil vapour into the induction system. That may benefit overall emissions, but it does make a hell of a mess of the ducts, pipes and intercooler over time. I set my 109 up with the breather running to the intake tract of the oil filter to prevent contamination of the rest of the system, and used a K&N as a paper filter would clog, get soggy and probably collapse. It works well. A catch tank is no bad thing, but it has to vent, so the hose should run inside the tank and not be sealed. What is done in the photos above is nonfunctional.

Worn discs have far less steel to act as a heat sump, so will fade more quickly than new discs. That could explain why it is seen as a recent fault.

I'm pretty sure 101 track rods are cranked, though not as much as those 303 rods. But you ask if steering rods can be cranked but strong enough with one in front of you - it's just a matter of the diameter and wall thickness of the tube. If you cant use the size tubing you need for stiffness as it fouls the swivel on high lock, then you can weld on an external gusset around the outside of the bend to add stiffness while keeping clear of the swivel. I would ream the swivel arms to take the LR rods and make up new ends on the existing rod to take them. Machining the pins is going to get boring very quickly each time they need replacing, where as reaming the arms will need doing once and you'll have an easy job thereafter.

How about overdrilling and using Helicoils?

I will get one for that reason when I return to the UK and the hobby.

Yeah - it's one thing having beer and sausage roll in a bushy beard, but melted patches from big sparks just looks silly.

I suspect the tensioner or the injection pump axis is slight off, allowing the belt to circumscribe a smaller circumference nearest the cover. It could be bad bearings, a distorted timing case or tensioner bracket, or something on the mating face of the tensioner, the fuel pump or the timing case.

Rubber fuel hoses do break down with age. The other fuel pipes that crumble fast are the small braided hoses between the injectors on Tdi engines, and LR don't sell them separately - they sell the whole assembly with the unions for the injectors and fuel pump for about Eu100. A 1m roll of identical 4mm fuel hose costs just a few Eu! So, I'd source this big hose from an autofactors, not from LR, as it's a standard size and will be much cheaper - all you need to do is cut the new hose to the same length and use the old clamps if they're in good condition or buy new clamps at the same time.

You'll have to polish up a spot with cutting compound to see the original colour before you'll get a match. If you get a paint shop to make up new paint to match this old colour, they'll fade differently.

I was going to reply in much the same way as David did. If the hand brake is OK, the rear shaft will be well retarded. Any creep would be due tot he rear wheels not having grip but the front wheels having good traction or the rear wheels being disconnected from the hand brake (prop shaft, rear half shaft, rear diff, drive flange or other conceivable failures). The front axle wouldn't be able to be locked fast like with an LT230's centre difflock. The twos example above is the only examples of such an issue I have heard of. I don't think it's prudent to drive these units with a rear axle disconnected, not only because of the hand brake issue, but also because it'd probably harm the viscous unit in the long run. But it can be driven that way if necessary, as they have both demonstrated. You'd just need chocks for parking.

Dayco made the belts for LR. You can buy LR labelled belts and kit, but you'll pay four times as much for the same quality. Do not buy Britpart unless you know they are providing LR or Dayco branded parts (not unbranded or Britpart branded). The 12 and 19J used a cylindrical vacuum pump on the right side of the block. It is a rotational pump driven by a skew gear from the cam shaft. This was carried over to the 200Tdi, using the same cam shaft, skew gear and pump. The 300Tdi uses a plunger type pump (like a spring loaded syringe) operated by an extra lobe on the cam shaft. I don't know which you have, but Id expect it to be the former.

The BW unit does the same things in essence as the LT230 - two gear ratios and a 4wd mechanism. The upper end (input side) has an epicyclic gear set for one ratio, with that set locked in its carrier for the other, much like in the Roverdrive. The output from that gear unit is then transmitted via a chain and sprockets to the output side. It is direct drive to the rear and through a viscous unit controlled diff to the front. Imagine a conventional pneumatic locking diff - you have an open diff with a sliding collar that can be used to lock one half shaft to the diff centre, which effectively locks up the innards of the diff. Well, this is similar in that the unit is permanently in place between the diff casing and the shaft, but it allows a certain slip rate before seizing, having the same effect as a diff lock. The resistance when the diff is "open" is still considerable, and turning a front wheel by hand with both rear wheels on the ground and the hand brake on gives a very slow rotation. If the viscous unit fails, it either fails soft, giving little resistance to that test, or fails locked, preventing any turn of the wheel. By using the viscous unit to control the diff rather than replace it, it means the viscous unit carries less load and is subjected to half the shear rate between front and rear axle because is is only subjected to the shear between the diff unit and one of its outputs. It can do the same job with less effort. I think the Freelander viscous unit has to contend with the full load without a diff unit.

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Those bolt holes would best be used with high tensile bolts passed through a bar over the end of the pulley bolt forming an impromptu puller - you would unwind the pulley bolt to force the bar and thus pulley away from the timing case.