Snagger

The pump has to come off to allow the ladder to be removed, so it's the easy way around for your task. It is possible that the pump pressure is low, most likely from debris trapped in the pressure relief valve or scoring of the tube or piston of said valve, but worn crank bearings are more likely. Drop the ladder and you'd be able to check the main and big end bearings; it's worth a look if you're already swapping the oil pump. The bearings are meant to be sacrificial, so you might be luck and get good pressure with new bearings and no crank work - that was the case for my Tdi rebuild. The big ends and main bearing lower shells are fitted with the crank in place, and I think you'd be able to slip the old top shells out and new in with a little downward pressure on the crank (don't pull too hard as you'll damage the seals at either end).

Good to extend it, but it needn't go far as the amount of air displaced by the diaphragm movement is relatively small.a six inch length of silicone windscreen washer hose bonded over the tube of that cap should suffice.

The rear cross member is best etched and sprayed with satin black. POR15 would be good, but I just used Rustoleum and got a very good result. The rest I bursh painted with Hamerite's (renaming of Finnigan) Underbody SHeild, which is the brush on version of Schutz, part bitumen and part waxoil. It cant chip or flake and goes on well, and has good anti-corrosion properties in itself. It can be wiped off quickly with solvents if you need to work on a section, though this leaves it a little prone to being locally washed off by fuel or oil leaks. On balance, I think it's very good.

True, but you may run into C&U regulation problems on various age vehicles if you fit rear seats without belts, even sideways facing - Defenders had lap belts on the sideways seats for a long time, albeit introduced a while after belts on forward facing rear seats. I'm confident a 1988 would have to be fitted with belts for forward facing seats (though not positive). For sideways facing I'd have to look up the regs somewhere as I really don't know. But as you said, it would be very unwise to have young kids on such benches in this day and age.

The quote from above says that if your kids are less than 12 and under 135cm, they cannot under any circumstance use sideways facing seats - they must be in forward facing seats with a booster and full restraints.

The off road page comments re the Defender made me smile, but the Vitara comment is brilliant!

All head linings have the Alpine light voids as County spec hard tops only had the front section fitted. LaSalle linings are made solid; you have to cut the apertures out yourself.

Ta! Tdis already have an engine oil cooler in the rad, so unfortunately I wouldn't be able to use that option. Pity, as it'd be a neat installation and would warm the oil in cold conditions. Any idea how much longer the ZF is than a short LT77? I'm trying to work out the practicality of throwing that and your old BW into the 109 (ie., if I have enough room if I move the front cross member). Any idea about the flywheel housing?

As I said, tell them that the "sales of goods act" requires them to give you an immediate replacement or refund as the part clearly wasn't fit for purpose. Don't wait around for them to mull it over as it is not their position to choose, it is simply the law.

Hi everyone. I know the ZF box is longer than the LT77, but apart from moving the engine forwards and replacing the clutch and flywheel with the flex plate and torque converter, what is involved in the swap? I have a 200Tdi Discovery engine that had been mated to a long version LT77, still with its original flywheel housing, if that makes any difference.

I have these lockers on my 109 (which took a small amount of fettling in itself) and later installed sliders/sills. I trimmed the flange off the lower frame section, so it was just a flat bar, and trimmed the door. It leaves plenty of strength in the door as the U section of the door reinforcement is left intact. I used Tiger Seal along the bottom edge of the door but there were still plenty of spot welds between the skin and reinforcer, so the door doesn't lose any strength. Having seen the sills trimmed to fit unmodified lockers (the white 110 that did the African expeditions featured in one of the magazines), I think the door trimming is not only easier and cheaper, but also much neater and prettier. Have a look in the three photos here: http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/ready-for-the-alps/

I would investigate Mini steering wheels - I'd imagine some generations have the right splines and they should eb the right overall diameter and depth for you.

I found the late Defender wheel perfect for the set up. The Tdi wheels are a bit big, but are at least flat rather than dished. Metro/Montego wheels fit the mid-era (200Tdi?) columns (same splines as Series III), but not the others.

I would say clutch and crank seal are a definite job. Anything else is on a case by case basis. Expect to do some work to the bulkhead and repairs tot eh wiring loom. Suspension bushes might be OK if not old, but it seems folly to refit worn bushes on the new chassis, so I'd budget for them (and engine transmission mounts if not in top condition).

Definitely reinforce them - the work involved is much less than that of rebuilding the whole car with broken limbs because the pedal box separated from the foot well. Frankly, it's something that Trading Standards might be interested in; the bolt holes will crack pretty quickly on a single sheet well unless they are made of significantly thicker steel than the original wells.

200 heads are not available from LR, 300 are. But you can still get 200 heads second hand or from remanufacturers like Turner Engineering. The 300 is a bit smoother and quieter, but it's greatest improvements are the crank driven oil pump (main brgs still lubricated should you break the timing belt, limiting damage typically to just the push rods) and the fact that you can remove the timing belt without the water pump, saving draining down (it's no bad thing to periodically replace the coolant from scratch, though, and belt changes are as good an interval as any). 300 heads do warp more easily, then suffering gas erosion, but as long as the cooling system is in good order, that shouldn't happen. So, it really comes down to ease and price. The 300 is more work and more common, so is cheaper.

If you join the forum, don't bother to fill out your profile, give no self introduction, ask about non Land Rovers, can't be bothered to ask a specific question, and then criticise the answers, then expect no more from me.

With a bit of luck, someone will run that welder around his neck as maximum amps.

I have an XC90. It is very good and 4wd, but it is an all weather car, not an all terrain car - it is for road use only, albeit snowy, icy roads.

Wouldn't it be best to shim the bulkhead position before fitting the sills? You need to bolt up the back end of the tub (leave the front loose for vertical adjustment to align with the curve in the side of the bulkhead), and then set the door aperture length by using washers between the bulkhead feet and outrigger. Once that is set, you can accurately and finally position the sills, using washers if necessary, to set their longitudinal position accurately to match the wheel arch position and to be symmetrical. If you don't do that, the gaps around the door edges will be uneven and the sills won't end at the same relative positions from one side to the other.

From what I have seen elsewhere, that amount of material is pretty common and even normal for infrequent oil changes. The magnets pick up almost all of the steel particles, but it looks worse than it really is because it collects with low density.

That's what I did. I don't think it's a coincidence that the procedure is two turns of 60deg, rather than some other angle. It'd save a lot of tools and time in the engine plant.

Oh, well played!

I'd recommend you stick with the standard 235/85R16 as they give the best overall performance and handling, though if you do a lot of driving along ruts, something taller may be useful (at the cost of some handling and fuel economy on the road) Wider is only good for sand but worse for road and mud, so avoid that temptation. You should be able to wind the stop locks in a little for better steering lock if you have standard tryes and wheels - LR tend to be a little conservative with adjustment, perhaps to reduce stress on the CV joints. Bigger tyres would need the stops at a lesser setting unless you used spacers, but they add stress to the steering components and wheel bearings/stub axles, so are best avoided where possible.

As far as the snorkel goes, it makes no difference. I used a Mantec plastic type as the steel tubed versions tend to rust badly under the powder coat and I don't like Safari snorkels or others with ram tops; I prefer the cyclonic mushroom types as they help prefilter the air a little and are better at keeping water out. As for the filter unit, I'd recommend a 300Tdi Defender setup, which is a cylinder with brackets that are held by the right hand side head bolts - it uses dead space (unless you have aircon, but even that might not e an issue), so you wouldn't have any space issues with the Discovery 200 engine having a wider accessories section than the Defender version. You would still use the wing side intake, whichever side it is fitted (200 was on the left, 300-Tdci on the right) with whatever hose will reach (might have to go aftermarket or mix and match between models). Early 90s (12J and 19J engines) didn't have side intakes, so you might have to either replace a wing outer panel or cut a hole in the existing panel (make a paper or card template from a later vehicle to get the position ans size right, remembering the joggled flange hidden by the perimeter of the plastic grille where the screws fit. If you do go for the 300 filter system, then I'd recommend the 300 and later right hand intake and snorkel if you have plain wings on an early vehicle, just so the intake hose doesn't have to cross the engine on the way to the filter.