Snagger

A shuttle valve on an ABS system? The callipers each have an independent line, and each has different pressure dependion on whether they're front or rear and grip/ABS activation, so there shouldn't be any shuttle valve.

The servo's push rod is adjustable, hence the hex flats. The Haynes manuals state not to adjust them as they're factory set, but I have done so in the past to improve braking efficiency where the servo tolerances seemed bad. I had rebuilt my callipers before fitting them, so had no sticky pistons to worry about. It does seem like your fault is the servo rod adjustment, though.

Split injector leak off pipes, by any chance? Those thin braided hoses perish in no time and tiddle diesel everywhere...

Modulars like that are stronger than standard 90/110 rims, but less than Wolf rims. While you might be able to repair that rim to get you out of trouble, you'd want to replace it asap. An alloy rim would be irreparable after such a strong impact, but since that modular is now scrap anyway, it does rather highlight the point that alloys aren't a problem, and that the important thing on an expedition is to have two spares rather than just one, regardless of wheel type or dimensions. It is worth remembering that the MoD consider some alloy wheels to be sufficiently tough to use on combat Wolfs like WMIKs, though their weight saving is less of interest than how they affect occupant safety when they contact a mine.

Our stock 2009 90 is bang on 2m. A modern 110 would be higher as their rear suspension is taller than a 90's. A flat rack or bars will get close to 2.2m before you fit the RTT - you'd have to remove it and lay it on edge next to the 90 in the container.

Use Timken or NSK bearings. You will get them cheaper from your bearings specialist than through a car parts supplier. The bearing numbers on the outer race will be the same for any manufacturer: that number specifies the dimensions and loadings of the bearing design. When doing up the hub nuts, I use a very simple method which has served well for decades - I use the box spanner (the tube with flats as sold by Paddocks and others). I put the hub on with the bearings, plus any appropriate spacer washers depending on which vehicle it is, then the first nut. I do the first nut up with a single hand grip on the box spanner and turn the hub over several times in each direction to seat the bearings. Once satisfied the bearings are seated, I slacken the nut and then tighten it with the box spanner, covered in grease and using a grip with one hand as tight as you would shake hands with. This way, I find it gives a very good preload without overtightening. Then the locking washer goes on, and the second nut is tightened as much as possible using a 1' bar through the box spanner before bending the lock washer.

Just a heads-up - you may need an electric fan because the Discovery's viscous fan will be in a different positionthan on your existing engine (or a Defender's 200 Tdi). This certainly was an issue for me when I removed the 12J (which used the same timing case, water pump and fan position as the Defender 200Tdi) from my 109 and fit a Discovery 200. The oil cooler pipes may also have fitting issues due to the different relative positions of rad and engine, but you will probably be able to simply invert them.

You must have a return line, but what you can do is tee the return from the injection pump to the feed line to the lift pump, recirculating the fuel instead of returning it all the way to the tank. This has one problem, however - any tiny leaks that allow air into the system will not be purged and will accumulate until the engine begins to run badly and eventually stop. Such small leaks are pretty common and are the usual cause for a diesel not starting instantly and needing a small amount of cranking. So, unless your engine starts instantly every time you use it, hot or cold, then this short loop method is inadvisable.

If it's a 300 Tdi, then this is almost certainly the source. There is a slim chance that the gasket between filter housing and block has failed, and a fair possibility that the oil cooler hoses have loose joints, but a loose oil filter is the first thing to look at.

No, mine have been fine, but I have a Discovery system mated to the SIII pedal box, so the interface between master cylinder and servo is standard.

It occurred to me after posting that the alloy used for wheels may be a magnesium alloy, rather than aluminium. Anyway, the point also holds - magnesium is used a lot in aircraft structures where weight is critical. Alloy wheels are not inherently weak, they just suffer, as you say,from being more brittle and harder to repair, so where a HD steel rim will buckle and could possibly be beaten roughly back into shape, an alloy is more likely to break beyond local repair. I don't think there is much difference in how much of a pounding each type will take before being damaged. It is something to be considered if you are going in to especially arduous and remote conditions. I have two spares and only plan trips around Europe and Scandinavia, so I'm not that likely to break rims, and having two spares I should easily be able to get replacements before I run out of wheels. In my case, the weight saving to make the spare door, bonnet and unsprung weights less is worthwhile. If I was planning a trip across Africa or Australia, then I'd have six Wolf rims. it all depends on the application. Anyway, back on topic, I used to have mismatched wheels as spares. As long as the circumference is similar, there shouldn't be much problem. Grossly mismatched treads could cause issues under braking, as could offsets, so if you needed to use the spare, it might be worth moving wheels around to make sure the spare goes on the rear axle where it would create less pull on the steering.

Taff, you won't see ambulances towing aircraft, or Rgt vehicles either. You probably won't see any other Rovers do it where you are, but I used to frequently see Ops 90s towing Pumas, Tucanos or Hawks. The practice may have been stopped by now - I'm talking about 20 years ago, but many of those vehicles will still be in service or recently released.

RAF vehicles are always the best to go for - they get the same meticulous servicing as other MoD vehicles, but how many ditches and tree stumps do you think they drove into on the airfields? They got a much easier life than their Army or RM counterparts, though you want to check the rear cross member on any RAF vehicles that could have been used for aircraft towing and overstressed around the hitch mount.

Sometimes things can be a little more confused - my Tdi has a new injector pump (was fitted to a Wolf engine which was immediately cast) and had never worked. I sent it for re-timing, having worked out the timing was off, making it impossible to work on the vehicle. It runs ok now, except that another manufacturing fault means that the boost diaphragm doesn't respond to the turbo - give it full welly and the turbo spins up, but there is absolutely no smoke and acceleration is sluggish. Anyway, in this instance, the smoke is a give away that either the engine is not getting enough air or the timing is off (too advanced if it's the fuel pump timing, cam timing could be out a tooth in either direction).

The double lipped seal in question was introduced in 1980 for SIIIs with rationalised axles, which share the same bearings as Defenders and Range rovers. The seal is interchangeable with the standard seal used on the coil sprung models, and as James says, is much better at both keeping oil in and water and dirt out.

It's mis-typed duct tape!

Are't they meant to have washers on each end the same diameter as the bushes themselves? Mine always have...

I only picked up the distortion of the piston's recess on a second look - I'd be very suspicious of your injector.

For what you want, I'd suggest a Pulse ambulance or earlier 110 ambulance would be a good starting point.

Camel Trophy Defenders used a second tank under the driver's seat. It was the MoD underseat fill type. I have two of these fitted to my 109 in addition to the standard rear tank. One of these from an 88 or 109 GS/FFR will fit a 110 3-door, but not a station wagon because of the latter's lateral beam and second row foot well, but I believe a 109 ambulance's tanks will fit. You would need to fit appropriate outriggers to mount it.

I did it a while ago with a pair of push-button Defender doors. I had the frames blasted and red-oxide sprayed, and etch primed the inside of the skins for protection, and then applied seam sealer between the frame and skin before fitting, but that was messy and made the joints to thick, making a neat fit tricky. In retrospect, using high quality dust tape over the frame faces that contact the skin would have been neater and easier and would have given perfect results.

I have started in earnest today, having over the last two months rebuilt the 109's gear box and rebuilding its head, and just yesterday refitting the front prop and the 3.54 Salisbury diif.. S, this evening, the Range Rover has shed all the trim from the boot space, the stereo base unit on the right hand side, the lower tail gate and both rear wings. The rear wheel arches are in poor condition around their joints with the inner wings, and the left side has rot around the base of the C-pillat, though the pillar itself seems ok. The boot edges and wings seem pretty good, mostly rust free - there is a small hole next to the brace for the spare wheel where it meets the floor, and the wing on the other side needs a small patch where the flange welded to the arch has rotted back a few mm, but it all looks pretty reasonable. The floor needs to come out, though it's not as bad as some you see, and the flanges need trimming off to be replaced with Z-sections. The rear cross member seems absloutely solid, it's only flaw being rust blowing the flange on the front face supporting the floor sides, limited to the areas behind the wheels. It might be possible just to clean that up and repair rather than replace the whole cross member, which would make life easier - I'll have to see once the main floor is out.

It could be a spray pattern issue with an injector, but it's probably just metal fatigue at that age.

The master could be leaking into the servo drum, if you're certain that there are no visible leaks anywhere on the system.

Could be the sensor gap being a little too big - that behaves the way you describe.