steve_d

I use a scraper made from a broken hacksaw blade. Grind the teeth off and grind the end square. Grind a chisel edge on the square end. Steve

Sunflower yellow? My coat...why thank you. Steve

Yes. The earths from the ECU come out to an earth point beside the ECU and all other earths come back to that point. The earth point then goes direct to the battery with a fat cable and is not earthed to the body. Having said that, it does not answer why it has the same issues when connected to the stim board on the kitchen table. Steve

That may be the easier job. So what ratios are out there? What ratio should I use? And which model will it come from? Are the diff housings the same or have I to look just for ring and pinion? Steve

I've added the extra PWM circuit which has made no difference. So, back to the original question. Can anyone suggest someone, or a business, I can send it to and have the problem analysed? I don't know much about electronics but suspect that someone with a scope would be able to see where the interference is coming from. I think it must be interference from the way everything starts jitering..even the pump signal keeps flashing on and off. Steve

For those that don’t know I converted my 87 RRC 3.5 Auto into a Dakar kitcar fitted with 33” tyres. I now find that it is reving about 2000 at motorway speed. When I come to an incline or try to accelerate it (most annoyingly) kicks down because 2000rpm is way below its ideal torque. The most obvious item to change is the transfer box but I have no idea what model it is but it is marked 1.222:1 4WD. Any ideas what ratio I should look for and which vehicle a suitable replacement would come from? Many thanks Steve PS Anybody got one? (had to ask).

That's the bit where I thought you would find a screw head if you looked down the hole in the top of the outer section. Have just had a look at my spare and there appears to be some sort of SRBF ring around the centre shaft which may mean it is just a press fit. I can see no other fixing method but am not prepared to strip mine down, sorry. Steve PS. SRBF Synthetic Resin Bonded Fibre also known as Tufnel

That section of the shaft is not where your problem lies. The shaft at the bottom comes up through the body and becomes the inner part of the shaft at the top. What you need to free up is the section of shaft that rotates a few degrees on the centre shaft. I don't believe you need to dismantle the gear etc. Steve

Never had a problem, just pick up the nearest plug socket and a selection of bars and away we go. Steve

Thanks John Will fit the PWM circuit and see if it makes a difference. Ref the 'because it says so in the manual', this is the MS-I manual which I have not seen before but it does prompt me to go find its MS-II equivalent again and double check I have not missed a later edition. Steve

I doubt it matters much what oil you use. I suggested 3in1 as it is very thin and penetrates. Don't know about the 13 1/2 stamping, would have thought it would be higher but when you get it freed of you can measure it. Steve

Down the centre of the shaft where the rotor arm goes. Use something light like 3in1 and keep working the shaft back and forth until it springs back to the stops with ease. The balance weights and springs are looking in good order so all should be good once you have it moving freely. Question though, When the weights are closed back in against the stops do the springs still have any tension in them or are they flapping about on the pins. A good answer will be that at least one of them will still have a little tension. The springs are sometimes different strength and length. Normally the light spring deals with the low revs and allows a quicker advance in the lower revs then the tension takes up on the stronger spring which slows down the rate of advance in the higher revs. Steve

On that subject, a trick taught me as a lad was trying to pour brake fluid into difficult to access master cylinders without pouring over the customers nice paintwork. Stick a (clean) long shank screwdriver into the master cylinder then dribble the fluid down the shaft from above. It's very controlled as you can hold the neck of the bottle steady against the shaft. Steve

Some further questions if I may. • Is there a reason for using 1K3 at R12 rather than 390 Ohm? • Why is C12 fitted? • You install the PWM injector circuit on your boards. Is there any possibility not fitting them is causing my problem? If so I can easily fit them. • Your wire links are different to mine but this may be a difference between MS-I & MS-II. my links are….. o R39 o D1 o D2 o XG1 to XG2 o OPTOIN to TACHSELECT o TSEL to OPTOOUT o TIP121 links to Q4 o JS10 to IGN • I think the SAW pullup I mentioned before is done in/on the MS-II processor. Again many thanks for your time. Steve

I take it the components in white are not fitted? There are components on your board that are not on mine so I will have a look at what they do and ask again about those before fitting them. Is the 1K resistor on the proto area anything to do with idle as it looks like it may connect to the TIP122? I don’t have anything like that on my board. Steve

I think I have built it correctly but the problem is the same on both my ECUs so it is unlikely to be a faulty or blown component but I could have built both of them wrong. I have omitted Q4, Q20, D8 and replaced R39 with a jumper. I have fitted a TIP121 to the heatsink (where Q16 would have been). It is fitted with a mica washer, heat transfer compound and nylon fixings. TIP121 is wired to the Q4 position. I have lost count of the times I have checked I have wired it correctly and also checked I have not bridged the pads when soldering. I have tried fitting the Flyback diode 1N4001 both at the valve and at the stimulator. Wired with the band towards the +12v. In the build sequence I have….. • Not fitted jumpers at Op.22. • I have assembled Op.50a not 50b. • I have not installed any of Op.51. • At Op.52 I have fitted the Hall Sensor jumpers. • At Op.65 the jumpers for EDIS have been made and the high current Ignition driver components. Have not been fitted. • Op.69 I have not installed the extra PWM Flyback circuit components as this seemed to be related to low impedance injectors. For reference this is a V3 board with MSII and I’m running MSII-Extra. Here’s hoping you just return with a quick answer like ‘What made you think you could leave out Op.69’. Many thanks for looking. Steve

It should not be necessary to remove the whole shaft but if you can see no other way to strip it from the top then you may have too. You should then have the whole shaft on the bench and be able to strip it down. When you have it all in bits you will need to start by fitting the shaft back in and putting the drive gear back on. Steve

Have you removed the vacuum unit, the ignition amp and the amp mount casting? Haynes says all these need to be removed. With those off it may be possible to remove the whole shaft and base plate. With it on the bench you may then be able to remove the reluctor. You are on your own after that as Haynes helpfully says don't dismantle it any further. As the shaft has lifted the balance weights will now be loose so you have no option but to continue. Steve

If it sensitive to cornering then either an electrical connection loose or even the drive cable loose. Steve

Just had a look in my Haynes and the reluctor is held in place by a circlip a washer and an O ring. The words say "to assist removal of the reluctor insert a small screwdriver under it and prise it up the shaft" Think we can take it from that that it is a tight fit. Steve PS Seems the screw is used in the earlier dizzy.

Look down the hole in the top of the shaft. You will most likely find a felt pad (oil reservoir) lift that out and there should be a screw underneath. When removed the rotor should lift off. Can't be sure on this but that is how most dizzys are built. Steve

If it is stiff then the outer part of the rotor shaft is binding on the inner. Remove the rotor arm and drip some 3in1 down the middle of the shaft and work it back and forth until it frees up. Once it is free check again that it springs back if it does not then the springs have either broken, stretched or come off the balance weights so will need stripping. Steve

Still trying to resolve my Idle valve problem. As I said above the thing just sends MS haywire and having tried all manner of things to resolve it. I became convinced that something had failed/blown in the circuit but I have no electronics knowledge or test kit so no way to prove this. I have another project on the go which will use MS. Today I completed building the ECU and you guessed it....idle does exactly the same thing. So today's question is, who can I send one of these too to get it tested and resolve the IDLE problem? I can most likely live without the idle control on the Dakar but the other project is a Chevy V8 with 500hp which will not be fun to drive with idle issues. Steve

I love a happy ending. Steve

Rather than pull the inlet I would start by putting a DTI on each of the valves to see how much lift each is getting. From my experience of a worn lobe the symptoms you describe are pretty late on into the process so you may be able to spot the problem by eye or just by holding a steel rule beside each spring. Steve