steve_d

Sounds like they have already damaged any chance of sales to this fraternity. The last order I placed with them took over a week to get here. Having seen the posts here I will not be using them again. Steve

I can see nothing in the IVA manual that precludes their use. The closest is the line "A brake pipe or hose must have suitable joint fittings" If the Goodridge data sheet refers to their use in braking systems then that would fulfil the "suitable". A couple of catalogues I have refer to a Jiffy-Tite system but say this is not for brake systems. One refers to a Goodridge QD system but the Goodridge catalogue online only has them as a system heading with no detail. Steve

Don't know why I missed that will have to go back and read the whole thread again in case there are some other good things in there. Slapped wrist. Right so I have now modified things as best I can but the menus are different in MSII Extra and the settings are in different values which just adds to the confusion. Had hoped that something in those settings would cure my problems but alas no. So I'm still trying to find a cure for this interference. I'm more convinced now that it is not the code as it will all run nicely on the stim without the valve connected. When I plug the valve in it will behave for a while then everything goes haywire with all the gauges in MT jumping about and even the pump LED on the stim flashes. The valve also crashes open and closed. Flyback diode On the car I have one in the loom at the valve. When running on the bench I have one wired on the stim board. On the Extra forum I have been advised to fit it on the MS board but the manual says it should be at the valve. Can I put in more than one flyback diode so I have one at the valve and another on the MS board? Steve

Found something interesting today with the Bosch extra air valve. When I was first fitting one I noticed that there was quite a lot of air passing through it even when it was closed. Made a mental note of this and next time I was at the breakers I bought another one but it was the same so accepted that that is the way they are. Having read recently, whilst trying to get mine to run properly (see above), that they can stick I wondered if this is why it did not seal completely. This morning I cleaned my second valve to ensure it was not sticking. With all the plop removed you can now see, and prove, that the vane in the valve comes round to a closed position then continues to its stop. In this position the back of the vane is slightly open. What this means is that the valve must have a small amount of drive on it for it to be fully shut. This now answers one of the issues I had where as the car got close to the temp where no extra air was required the tickover would drop way back then recover. Steve PS any thoughts on my problem above? I'm not electronic so I'm stumped how to clear this interference if that is what it is.

You may get more response if you indicate what you are trying to achieve. A photo of a whole engine bay is not going to contain much detail and you would have to stand on the garage roof to get the shot. Steve

Try it in a sports car with 13" wide rear tyres................. Steve

Is anyone running the Bosch extra air valve with MSII extra 2.0.1? If so can you let me know what settings you are running with it as I am unable to get mine going. It will run and for a while can be run from the temperature table but then starts to jitter taking all the other things with it like all the gauges in MT start jumping about. Finally MS will lock up. If I simply unplug the valve all returns to normal. It will do this both on the car or running it on the stim. I have the flyback diode fitted but doubt this is the issue as it is fitted on the stim board when on the bench and in the car is fitted in the loom beside the valve so it is unlikely both diodes have failed. It will also do it with two different valves. I've posted on the Extra forum but there does not appear to be any specific reason for this to happen. It seems like interference but the diode is supposed to fix that. I think my next move is to go back to MSII basic and see if I still have the same problem. Steve

If you have coils and leads laid out as per the photo then wire as follows:- Coil A Pin 3 wire to EDIS pin 8. Coil B Pin 1 wire to EDIS pin 9. Coil C Pin 3 wire to EDIS pin 11. Coil D Pin 1 wire to EDIS pin 12. Yes polarity of the VR sensor is important. Hold the sensor to look into the connections so that the register (lump that makes sure you put the connector on round the right way0 is at the top. Pin 1 is on the right (+ve) connects to EDIS Pin 5. Pin 2 is on the left (-ve) connects to EDIS Pin 4. Steve

You bring the shaft towards you (in the picture), remove the ball bearing then the shaft can go away from you and out of the housing. Steve

Tell the police anyway as they may know the vehicle. Steve

You need a two pole Momentary On/Off/Momentary On. Company near me does them Furneaux Riddall in Portsmouth. but no doubt any number of other places will have them. PT511 056 they are splash proof and 16Amp 12V. Steve

I see a lot of threads relating to people who are having lots of issues getting the direct ignition control to work properly so that may be one of the reasons to go EDIS. Steve

There you go again, assuming your order IS going to be small. Have you not read the catalogue yet. Steve

A quick Google seems to indicate that is a good number. It appears in the Dingocroft service kits etc. Steve

http://www.polevolt.co.uk/ is the supplier I use. You can buy by the meter. Don't go thinking a piece of wire is all you will buy as their catalogue is very tempting. Steve

The problem with the use of that alternator is that the beams of your headlights will now shine into the lamp rather than out. This would of course constitute a failure of both MOT and IVA. Steve

Also your cruise will be different to both mine and FFs. Have no idea what you are driving, mine is an auto on 33" tyres and god only knows what ratios FFs beast is running so all our cruising will happen at different revs and vacuum. Best to start with your data log. Go out and do some cruising. When you review the log the steady state, almost straight lines, of throttle, revs etc will show you where your cruise falls in your VE table. Steve

With the size of the beast and the size of the wheels/tyres I would not even consider the Rover engine/box combo and go straight for a Chevy as it will have way more grunt. Steve

As has been said there are quite a variety of spark maps around. I could make a guess at what LR did originally with the mechanical and vac advance and try to copy it into a map but unless you use a rolling road I can't see any way to tune it. Am I missing something? Steve

The only daft question is the one you don't ask. Steve

When referring to the injector seals are we talking about a seal that has failed and is sucking in air? If so then get a propane blow lamp and with the gas turned on but not lit play it around the injectors. If the engine speeds up then you have found your leak. All normal health and safety caveats apply. Steve

OK did not think about the turbo. If I were doing it on my engine then I would drill the hole whilst holding a shop vac beside the drill then tap the hole with the tap coated in grease. Clean and recoat each time you stop to check if you have tapped far enough. Personally I don't think a small amount of swarf will worry the turbo but I wait to be flamed on the matter. Steve

Better still ring 01792 454 203 which is the direct line into the VOSA technical support department. I have had nothing but good support from them and they seem more than happy to have a chat and discuss the finer points of your query. In a phone conversation you have a far better chance of running a number of 'what ifs' or 'yes,but?' past them. However, the decision as to whether your changes will require SVA/IVA lies with DVLA not VOSA. In that respect I've had very little help from a technical direction as each office seems to work their own rules and getting hold of the technical officer in your local office can be a nightmare. You can only deal with the office local to you so there is no scope for finding a LR friendly office. Keep us posted as to what you find. Steve

As this is on petrol or LPG it is not going to be the injectors. To me it really smacks of exhaust manifold to head so two things.... 1. Have you put an exhaust gasket on upside down or back to front? Both are possible and result in only about 2mm of gasket at the worst point. 2. Are you sure you properly tightened the bolts as some are a complete barsteward to get at and can be forgotten in the final tightening sequence. Steve

This is about the easiest tapped hole because you are tapping into an uneven and/or curved surface doesn't matter a F if it is square or not. Why do you need to remove the manifold? If there is space to get you drill down in there Or a flexi drive Or a rightangle drill adaptor then just drill it in situe. When you tap the hole get it started and wound in a few threads then remove it and try the fitting. It won't go in far enough and will give you a guide as to how many more turns you need on the tap. Keep doing this until you are happy with the depth. When you fit the sensor it will likely turn about two more times from finger tight. There is also nothing stopping you tapping a hole or two in some scrap metal on the bench. Use some oil on the tap. Take it easy and don't force it. The normal hand technique is to turn a bit then back of just over 1/4 turn to break the swarf chips. It's a feel thing. Steel will need this but cast iron less so. Enjoy Steve