steve_d

Think Automotive BGC motorsport components Merlin motorsport all do them but all want about £28 Steve

The thread will be heavy reading and take a while so the simple answer is that your Hal-Tech ECU will need programming on a rolling road and you will be for ever reliant on paid help when you have issues. MS you will map yourself on that expanse of road you pay huge amounts of tax for. You will not find better help than exists on this forum. Before you start reading cut and paste the whole thread into Word then when you have finished reading you can do a word search to go back and find bits you want to re-read. Steve

I will say this very quietly so your car can't hear. I don't think you have found the actual problem just disturbed the real culprit. The reason I say this is because an earth is the end of the circuit so if it is not good nothing is connected so nothing can blow. For the fuse to blow then something is earthing earlier in the circuit. It may still be in the injector run where the injector supply cable is earthing before the injector. Steve

The times you quote and the noise levels you are making will not cause a problem with the council but as others have said you could have a 'Sensitive' neighbour. The most important thing is to engage your neighbours in your enthusiasm for what you are doing. What may seem to them and unnecessary amount of noise will be viewed in a different light if they know how much it means to you. Keeping the garage doors closed could actually have a negative effect as they cannot see what is going on and what progress you are making. I have worked on cars and built kitcars for many years and there are people who live on my estate who regularly wander in and have a natter. It also helps if they know they can get a bulb changed or a wiper blade fitted without having to take it to a dealer. Steve

Right, just given myself a good slapping on your behalf. When I had that screen up I just looked below and saw it was only one page so came back out. Many thanks for your perseverance. Steve

I would not worry about only being able to tune when off road. If that is the only place it is driven then the map boxes seen will be the only ones that matter. The only thing to watch for is that boxes just outside those visited in the datalog will influence the tuning so if you can see they are way off then manually adjust them to something close to the boxes visited. Steve

It may be the right one but difficult to tell just from a pic. What's wrong with getting them from a car breakers along with a decent length pigtail which you can graft into your wiring? Avoid the ones from the states. They are the same pin configuration but do not have weather seals like the UK/Europe ones do. Steve

Do you have a circuit diagram so you can trace everything fuse 37 supplies? Switch on then get out and see if anything extra is on outside...someone may have wired spot lights to that circuit and you've unknowingly switched them on. Next take all of those you can out of circuit and see if you still have the problem. If you do then you know which routes it has to be in and run (temporary) new wires to bypass the ones in the loom. Will take a while but stick with it. Steve PS I doubt any of the fuse37 problems are related to the overheating unless you have electric fans in which case it could have everything to do with it.

I would not worry too much as it seems to make very little difference to the way the engine runs. After blowing mine I fitted a couple of resistors and a switch so I could select a hot or cold day but soon forgot which way the switch went for hot or cold and it made no difference so I left it in one position. If you have a reading I would just be happy that it is not open circuit. Steve

My test sheet says Ohms. There is a warning saying don't test for too long as the multimeter will heat up the sensor and give the wrong reading. What it fails to say is if you keep it on for more than a few seconds it can blow the sensor completely...ask me how I know. Steve

Bit like pulling teeth this. Right, found the drive and mounted RAVE03 A box opened saying something like there were a variety of file types and which program did I want to open it with. If I cancel from that I'm left with a folder structure for RAVE03. there are one or two .exe files in there but all they do is open a one page pdf of a RAVE splash screen (waterfall). How do I boot RAVE? Steve

Now there's a desperate man. Steve

I've found and downloaded 'Virtual Clone Drive' and installed it. Where do I find RAVE ISO? I have downloaded RAVE03 from Green Oval but cannot find an iso file anywhere in the various folders. I'm assuming iso is a file extension. Steve

Thanks guys Sounds like I will at least need the sump gasket but should I also replace the filter and does the valve block have a gasket? Rave has beaten me so far as I don't have any facility for burning a CD/DVD and not being overly PC savy I don't know how to do it within the PC. Steve

Had problems at the weekend where the auto did not want to change up or down as it should. Traced it to the kick-down cable where the inner lining of the cable has come out at the engine end and therefore restricts travel. This happened before so I made a plate that only the cable itself could pass through but somehow it has beaten that so I have to assume the cable is pretty gummed up inside for it to force the liner out. Q1 How do you change the cable as it disappears into the box? My parts list shows it winding round a disc on a shaft so I assume I have to take off the sump plate to attach the new cable. Q2 Do I have to do anything else other than adjust the cable at the engine end? Q3 Best place to Buy? Have Googled the part number (RTC 4854) and found a mix of OE and Britpart prices but wondered if there was another route like a cable manufacturers rather than a LR part supplier. Q4 If, as I suspect, the sump plate has to come off what else should I be doing while I'm in there and what parts will I need? What gaskets/seals need replacing...is there a filter....anything to adjust...etc. The bits are all 87RRC which is the ZF 4 speed auto 'box. Many thanks Steve

Car builder solutions for your fuel cap. Steve

It should be a permanent supply. comes in via what Haynes calls the main cable connector (7 pin) and also supplies pin 86 on the main EFI relay. Steve

As Nige says..throw some composite gaskets at it. If that doesn't work find another engine, there are plenty about. Steve

Short answer...No. The switch will not take the load. In something like a RRC where there are more electrics than a series or early 90/110 there is an ignition load relay which is activated by the ignition switch then the contacts carry all the 'ignition switched' type loads. Steve

I use Firefox but I expect that never switching the computer off has something to do with it. Steve

Spot on. Shift refresh fixed it. You say patience but it has been a few days since I put the new pic up. Many thanks Steve

I use Comma brake cleaner which is primarily NAPHTHA. I thought tetrachloroethylene was banned in the UK. On second thoughts that may have been trichloroethylene. Steve

What am I doing wrong? Have updated my avatar photo and I can see it in my profile but my old photo is still appearing in my posts. Steve

Keep it simple comes to mind so I would favour the bent and welded loop. When I've seen these fitted they tend to be mounted with the bar of the loop vertical which I don't understand. In a straight pull it makes no difference if the loop is vertical or horizontal. In the case of a side or angled pull a horizontal loop would be stronger so that is the way I would have expected to see them mounted. Perhaps my lack of winch experience is missing some other vital element of the pull. Steve

You say they have been bled but there is quite a special technique for bleeding the RRC twin system calipers and if it has the brake fail switch in the side of the master cylinder that must also be withdrawn. If you know all this then tell me where to go. Steve