steve_d

Some 'Old School' bits for you then. An EFI age engine is going to do all the timing from a map so the sensor has only one position to be in. In a dizzy there are two timing advance mechanisms. Mechanical...this is archived by a set of weights down in the bowels of the dizzy that are flung outwards as the revs increase. In doing so they rotate the upper section relative to the lower section of the shaft. Vacuum....this is connected (by a tube) to the inlet to sense engine load. At the dizzy a diaphragm pulls on, and rotates, the base plate which carries the timing sensor or points if you go really old school. As you can imagine over time this whole arrangement wears which is why it has to be adjusted. Adjustment is by way of loosening and rotating the dizzy. The timing marks are a fixed pointer on the timing cover beside the front pulley and the timing marks on the pulley itself. You will need to know the setting you are aiming for but the 6 degrees before TDC sounds about right. Mark both these lines with a thin line of tipex or white paint. With a timing light connected to spark lead one, engine running at about 800 revs and the vacuum pipe disconnected you should see both marks lit up by the light and in line with each other. If you rev the engine you should see the mechanical system advancing the spark. If you suck on the vac pipe you should again see the spark advance but it needs a good hearty suck (I use a syringe). HTH Steve ETA Don't forget the fan. It will make a nasty mess of a timing light and body parts too so go careful.

IVA manual says minimum 4mm on the plate and 7mm on the chassis. There must be no gaps in the VIN number. I used 4mm for both on my Dakar and nobody complained. If you can get someone to do the plate you will avoid the rather crumpled affair that graces the Dakar. Stamping the new galv chassis is fine. Replacing the plate may give rise to questions as to why you replaced it so if I were doing it I would take detailed photos of the old (corroded) plate before I replaced it and also retain the old plate should you need to argue your case. Steve

If you can get in there with a Dremel and cutting disc you could make a big screwdriver slot in the bolt head. Steve

You may be sorted now but for the future and others try.... BGC Motorsport or Think Automotive Steve

Fuse 11 and 13 are indicator and hazard. 13 is good if the reverse lights still work. Fuse 11 is good if the interior and door lights are still working. If not the fuses then it is most likely the hazard switch or its connections as both systems use the same relay. Try punching the hazard switch on and off lots of times as the switch contact can become dirty through lack of use. Steve

If this is now a custom setup does the tank have clear breathers? Steve

You must have an internal mirror and a drivers side mirror. If an internal mirror would provide not rearward vision then you must have a passenger side mirror. The only gotya they could pull is if they determined that the interior mirror view was restricted by something like roll cage cross braces etc. I think there is a allowable % of restriction. Steve

To me the use of the mog axles infers you are going to play harder. If so, then most of the LR drive train options will become the weak point. Whilst it moves away from being a Land Rover I have to say a swap out of the engine and drive train to a Chevy or Ford etc will give the best package IMHO. Steve

Rather than just moving the engine earth I would add more. I think the RRC had about 5 earths as standard. Steve

No, not usual. Ordered something yesterday mid morning and it arrived middle of this morning. Rather good I thought but would have been surprised if it had taken longer than tomorrow or Monday. Steve

£64+vat for the one I bought. Steve

How big are these holes and how many have you to do? Sounds to me like opening them up with a die grinder would be quicker and easier. Steve

Should be in here, Statutory Instrument 2001 No. 561 Steve

Very nice. Would avoid the Hammerite though as it chips very easily. A good coating of zinc or red oxide primer followed by chassis paint or an enamel would be better. Steve

Think Automotive|http://www.thinkauto.com/ Don't know if they do a banjo that then takes the standard flexi but they do sell banjo fittings so you can make up your own hoses which means you can make them just the length you require. Very easy to make, have done plenty myself. Steve

I have MSII extra running on a 3.9. Only at the early stages of tuning it but it is running and on the road. What form of IAC are you looking at? Steve

Ali Living in a country where A/C is a must I am surprised you can't just take it to any local A/C company and have them make up a system for you. The only specialist parts would perhaps be the mounting and belt tensioning for the compressor. Steve

How about a nice engine turned finish? Can be done with grinding paste on the end of a stick in a cordless drill and various other methods. The swirl pattern does a good job of masking any future scratches. Steve

I did the normal checks on mine, trying to twist the two sections and pushing and pulling and found nothing. In trying to isolate the noise I took one end of the prop off and then found it almost seized solid so the normal checks below may not find the problem. I also agree the U/J is the most likely culprit. Steve

Difficult laying underneath but I have 130mm for/aft and 157mm up/down on an 87 RRC chassis. Steve

Is that normal inches or Britpart inches? Steve

In the coming years you will have to take extra care as the area will be prone to sunburn. Steve

If, as above, it could be the temp sensors then a worthwhile first move is to check and clean the connections at the sensors. The sensors work on resistance so a dirty connection can cause problems. Steve

I know this is a touchy subject with some but here goes. If you change the design of the rear cross member you have modified the chassis and in principal would need SVA/IVA. Your removable version would definitely fall into that category. Repairing the chassis is perfectly acceptable. The fact you used some heavier gauge material you happened to have in stock also is not an issue. If you then boxed it (even with lighter gauge material) you would leave it looking pretty much standard and remove the likelihood of someone looking at it and declaring it an issue. All just IMHO. Steve

Salvage the bits you need from an old caravan with Ali window frames. It will come with all the hinges and rubber seals. Just need to add more substantial locks and some gas struts. Steve