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If you need a 3.9 ecu with a tornado chip in then i have one going cheap currently fueled for a 4.6 but could be remapped if need be. let me know

depends who you ask on here, some say they need work at 60k and some say there shot at 150k. RPI have some interesting reading on their web site, i know that my 150k V8 runns better than my 60k motor....... :S

Twin turbo / supercharge a V8 is the future!

i did alittle to be honest, so i do appolagise, but i have found in the past that using a lower or higher temp thermostat does make a difference to where the needle sits in the gauge regardless of the gauge being right or wrong, i have always changed a thermostat first if i have ever had coolant issues as its cheaper than a pump and or gauge... (presuming you have airflow, be it fan or forced air driving) Do agree with engine temp and pressure, but i'm a firm believer if you can keep your water temp correct then you dont need to worry about oil temp so much.

I'd crank it up as its in warrenty!

hello, your thermostat controls the temp of the engine correct? and your temp gauage takes a reading of your engine correct? so if you have a lower temp thermostate or a higher one for that matter thus changing the temperature of your engine surely this will have a knock on affect of your gauge??????

I reckon if i used a lower thermostat like that my dial would read better, but i use a genuine 88 thermostat.....

As temperature accurancy is pretty important when off roading especially with eleccy fans etc, i have decided to by a new gauage and matchuing sender, that way i know exactly whats going on rather than the vage reading of a lr gauge, I will have a quick play and see if there is a matching sensor / gauage tonight but i will be fitting one of these with correct sender http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p6142/VDO-WATER-TEMPERATURE-GAUGE/product_info.html thank you

to save confusion i'll explain number 1 This is a 1985 genuine V8 CSW, I put in a Multi-vee belt 3.9 from a 1991 RRC. the original clock read high (just touching the red on operating temperature, I through in a TD5 style 50th anniversary clock and it read perfectly, (half way) But really i need to replace all the other clocks now to make it look "matching" Number 2 Still in the build, 1993/4 200tdi, again I put in another Multi-vee belt 3.9 from a 1992 rrc, again clock reads high (just in the red) at operating temp, i have x switch for leccy fan and that comes on and goes off and gauge sits firmly in the red. The only real reason i don’t want to put another 50th anni clock in the tray back is A because of the looks but if i have too then i will but surely there is away round it. I will play with other sensors tonight and see if i can come up with something as we have plenty of defender variants cars around to try, I was just trying to save time. AL

I'm runing a Efi, not the carb version, so maybe you have a different sender? i know the senders arent interchangable do to thread ??? so my options are new gauage and maxing sender? or to find a way round it. yes i'd like to keep the factory dial, i'll have to get measuring a 200tdi and go from there.

Hello Zardos, The readings given were from this forum for yes a TD5 and two 3.9 senders, In my other transplant 3.9 V8 90 (which is V8 from new 1985 3.5) i had to change the dial to a 50th anniversairy gauage to make it sit in the middle, In this one i want to keep an orignal dial because of the looks and i think the resister will be the easiest way as long as i can work out roughly which one i need. How have you made yours work? are you running a 82 or 88 thermostat? what sender and gauage are you using please? Regards

Having searched the forum and came across this old thread ( http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=51698 ) i am looking into adding a line trimmer variable resistor because i have installed a 3.9l into my 90 what was a 200tdi and now the clock is reading high, My question is There are so many and so many different ohms ratings, In the link i have added above the results read below This is the result.. (sensor value in ohms) Temp....TD5.....3.9....3.9(2) 10......3900...1198 20......2700....810 30......1810....543 40......1213....360 50.......877....254....230 60.......636....173....184 70.......454....118....128 80.......336.....84....89 85.......298.....76....72 90.......252.....63....60 95.......224.....56....50 100......190.....50....30 Sowhat rating resistor would i need? 2k, 5k, 10k, 50k, 100, 300k, 500k, ?? i'm guessing a 2k? would this sound about right? thank you in advance

I wont be with adrian flux again, just be very careful with auto renewals and estimated mileage get in writing what you have agree'd the auto mileage and mail / email correspondence does not appear in your insurance documents. they have a clause for everything, after 14 days you cannot get your money back, also be careful with the way you correspondence with adrian flux, if you choose email only they can still post, they say something’s they carnt email (lies) so then i opted for post only and i received a email and they acted on that even thou i choose post. they will not talk to the insurence company even thou they are ment to be a broker. I have used them for years and had many policies with them and i'm very saddened to say the above. Big shame... so now to try someone else.

3.9 90, 285/75/16 tyres, road go'er.... 18mpg, if i behave BUT it sounds sooooooooooooo good when i dont (tubular manifolds and ss exhaust system)... so i'm getting about 12 / 14 mpg..

hot wire system is simple. if i was you i'd recheck the whole loom for any problems or get another loom in (there cheap) when you turn the key you should get the ignition relay click and the fuel pump one should click on for about 5 seconds or so.. so we need to know why this isnt happening. check your earth. make sure its earth well. if you want pictures of anything just ask as i have now done 2 of my own, first one i had slight trouble and similar to you had no fuel, rechecked everything and been working perfectly now for 18 months. and the second installation has and is working 100%. you can run your engine without the maf, so 1 less thing to rule out. really then you should only need to concentrate on what 7 wires. perm power, ignition, fuel pump, coil wiring (3 wires) and Main earth. I'll try and take photos of each part of my set up and it may help. Al

go and buy a some heavy duty jump leads. the heavy heavy duty type and cut the ends off and use that.. cheapest way to buy the cable.... :S oddly

just disconnect the orange / black. just have the three connected

Not very useful but a 200tdi conversion is the only cure!

swopped dizzy with working one from daily car, no change he has today refit exhaust replaced manifolds all clear and system sounds great now but still missfiring under load. happens on gas and fuel, seems to be left bank (drivers side) idols lovely, he thinks it gets worse with heat, which would indicate coil. but as described above changed all that. tomorrow he is going to check / add more earths and try little things that really should make that much of a difference as mentioned above checking and keeps ht leads seperate there currently in their holders but you never know. we have changed them for genuine and known working onces so not hopeful. thins is doing our heads in!

or a small racket strap, connect to chassis a few feet away wrap cord around shock a couple of times, then attack other ebd to chassis tightern up and then undo nut of shock, if you wrap strap the right way around shouck when you undo nut the strap gets tighter, not had a failer yet. cheap too

Added answers You have verified that: The fuel pump actually pumps. (have you compared the rate of flow to any online stats for the pump?- if there are any...) works perfectly and compared The fuel filters are clear. News ones fitted and tested flow good You have the correct plugs (are they gapped correctly?) Yes and swoped them out of my running 90 perfectly The same misfire occurs on LPG and Petrol. Both the same Have you verified the voltage you are feeding to the coil? yes, and ran a direct feed from the battery missing out ignition just incase Does the misfire occur under load at any RPM? yes any Does it happen only when hot/cold/both? yes both Does the engine idle evenly or does it hunt at all? runs beautifully at idle How did your exhaust checks go- any leaks anywhere? leaks on the Y piece he is sourcing new parts to make it sealed, should be complete over the weekend Sorry to ask more questions without giving any further answers myself, but I thought it would be good to summarise at this point... exhaust replacement and sealing not complete yet he'll finish off over weekend and i'll report back. thanks for the above and above posts, nice to double check and the likes. thank you. report back over weekend

this is what we need random suggestions. ticked both of them, added extra earth cables new fuel tank fitted. pump bottom filter cleaned and new filter fitted. we disconnected the carb side and it fills a jug nicely with good flow. Carbs been rebuilt. Third engine same fault different carbs, also does the same fault when running on gas. keep them coming

he did have but unpluged now and we're trying with just petrol. rechecked timing. still popping under load,

Some info i missed, he also had a gas system attached to the oringal engine and every time he put a new engine in and it wouldnt run right he then plumbed in the gas and it does the same thing on gas, the missfire. so we think this rules out the carbs / jetting fueling, the fuel pump as mentioned above. He is currently attacking the exhaust, manifolds off and through the rest of the system

positive to positive on coil and negative to negative on coil. i think white it positive and white and black negative off the top of my head..