iomlt

2 nuts and about 15 minutes a side. you can leave wheel on to do the job.. lots of wire brushing first and wd and makes life easier...

decided to through on a standard disco transfer box, i have lowered gears in the diffs so be ok... plus saves changing this part.. thanks for the advice.. know for next time.

Quick question hopefully get a nice quick answer basically, i want to lower the gearing and plus i want to get rid of the borge warner transfer box. so i got myself a transfer box out of a 90 to put on the auto hp22 and it doesn’t fit. it goes on about 2 / 3 inches and then wont go any further... what transfer box do i need? I noticed that the main shaft out of the 90 after the spines nearer the actual gearbox is thinner than that of the auto, so understandably it wont let the transfer box slide on far enough.. I wasn’t expecting that to happen. please advice me thanks in advance.

lucky lucky man...

Adrain flux.

Change the diffs in the axels.. stock ones are pretty soft anyways... wack some HD ones in there and lower the gearing while your there two birds one stone

why not just whined in a long threaded bolt and tap the pressed in part with a hammer while screwing in? i have never had a problem removing them by doing this???

two of us here had it bad, anywhere from 40 - 55 mph roughly and changed wheels round / another set and perfect. we both run simex. in the end i bought two new simex tyres stuck them on the front as minue they were 5 years plus and now perfect OME everytime.

borrow some wwheels of someone that doesnt have problem. my money is on them and a warn panard bushes

Yes they can be removed, and you can buy new ones.... or get someone to machine you up on.. not difficult..

Or you might be lucky.... the last two i have done i have knocked out with a lump hammer. A great way to A. keep warm when its cold out in the garage. B a great way to release fustration / angar etc..... getting back in can take some doing with a hammar so a press would be way.... Always think the worse and hopefully it wont be that bad

I had a similar issue on mine... turned out to be the connection on the actual control stalk. Re-soldered on been ok since... once minute it worked the next didn’t. :S mine is earlier than yours having said that.. but might be worth a look or test with the multimetre.

cheaper in the long run if you have 10 spline already with funny ratio diffs. at least gkn give us the option of uprated 10 spline stuff.. unlike many other manufactures

http://www.devon4x4.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=299&Itemid=14 they have the shafts. i got my cv's of Gwyn lewis.

fit GKN shafts and CV's they work well for me (10 spline)

even more of a basic question how would you know if it was fitted?

I could do with a pair of wings doing

new rotor arm? leads to sprak and coils renew magnicor...... check the tops of each spark plug if the tops are loose. the coil, is your alternator / battery giving out enough, when my alternator started to fail i had this and struggled to rev in the end. maf?

Why out of braided? why not use standard fuel line? pump is in tank so wont collapse be a lot cheaper.

1. yes 2. min of 6mm for carb i'd say 3. yes just make sure you give it a clean / flush out with petrol first. and make sure your first tank is a full tank. 4. totally guessing here, pump for the diesel (unsure on engine) might be high presure and as your unning carbs you need a low pressure pump. tick tick tick type pump not the wizzy one... hope i have helped

temp sensor?

same for me also

Drive harder they will cope, unlike standard lr shocks which carnt cope!

Easy. just put the 3.9 electics onto the 4.6 and buy a 3.9 ecu fueled for a 4.6 (RPI tornado chipped) that i have for sale simples*

I have done exactly this with my 90 less than a couple of months ago they are a very simple unit to work on and very simple to cpnnect up (efi side of things) There are plenty of manuals on line that can help the search on here is fantastic if your stuck give me a shoute