iomlt

Why not remove TS and reinstall it? got to be worth a try.... I had a similar fault with megatune on my "posh" laptop but my cheaper one runs M.T no problem.. wierd.

I was just about to suggest that.. i did EXACTLY the same as you yesterday and had exactly the same problems as you. Today i plumed it into the correct place.. and re-timed her and SO MUCH better.... now to get logging etc

air flow meter?

no1 plug out and check the piston is at the top.

the price of 2nd hand SII and SIII have rocketed. you wont loose if you fit a new chassis if you ever came to sell her.

why bother fitting longer shocks? why not save alittle but and use dropper plates for the rear shocks and by -1 inlower front turrents. given her extra travel? I got away with this on mine and the genuine bump stops hit first. its a case of fitting things without the springs and dropping the car and see what touches. OR keep it standard and fit a locker in the back? just lift a wheel more?

No you dont. I think.. buy you have to double check, you can run a plus 2 shocker and keep the standard springs. but you will need spring relocaters front and rear and string retainers again front and rear. Keep the vehicle low good thinking and make the suspension travel! Fit the new shocks and lower down and what you want is the bump stop to touch first! not the shocks bottoming out.

painting is the easy part and you'll have it all painted in a hour or but there is lots and lots of prepping and if you want a really good finish getting the majority of the pannels into individual parts would be the ideal. which would take a age! the better the finish the more prep time need. the more prep you but into it the better the result.. :S

If you have done the modification to the dash wiring harness then i sound that the V8 temp sender works perfectly. i have a 3.9 efi multi belt.

i would say something more too it than that... double check your work, clearences and load....

OME for me too. far superior than anything else i have fitted. actually thats a lie, Hydro steer is the best damper i have used, not really a steering damper but hell its does the trick very well

I followed it and it worked perfectly. i did the whole dash / gauges. Fantastic link, i ran twin cor and ran the negative to the closest bolt on the trasferbox. also if your running a efi unit or later take a spur off the signal and link it to the ecu i found it made a tiny bit of difference

another vote for Genuine

you charge people to take them on public rights of way????

agree, with the rest of the bulk head looking like that i'd be not worrying about it and wasting time / money on that look out for a new one. depending on the rest of the truck

that is just how mine started out but a V8. mines 85 and was the spit of that. indicators are correct. i got bored and rebuilt it galv chassis, bulkhead, doors, updated td5 interior with outlast interior and i removed the stickers from the side and i stuck in a 3.9efi. happily sell mine for that.

. so many options you have., oil cooler, you dont need. so remove it orrrrr if you really want to use it use purchase a TD radiator, will fit in your current mounts and the engine oil cooler pipes will fit no problem Gearbox wise, the strongest box is the LT85, not the quietest but designed for the V8 and fits perfectly. if your purchasing new then a R380 would be a nice upgrade but you'd need to change / modify your tunned / seat box to accept which ever gearbox you decide to go for. A two hole tank is the better option, i have done both. you can use the 1 hole and put a intank pump but i found i had to loose the low light as i needed the connection to run the pump. External pumps are noisey.. a two hole tank does work better. The Efi system is nice and simple to fit. only a hand ful of wires to fit. so no drama there. Fans - what is the purpose of use? off roading? then the biggest fan you can fit or twin. on road? then just one fan will do or why not fit the viscous? this is only one way. but there are a few option you have.

in one word YES

i have a rpi optimax 14cux ecu currently fuel for a 4.6 on hotwire wiring if that would interest you. open to fairly sensible offer . another option for you

GW for me too on all my trucks road or off road..

i had this on a dizzy, two sparks jsut died off. cleaned plugs and would last a few minutes and soon die off a again, new leeds and plugs and been perfect for the last 12 months. i know its not MS, what plugs are you using NGK? are the ends of the plugs coming loose? earth good? (i know it would affect more than 2 plugs but strange things have happened. moved good working plugs for bad ones? same for the ht leads too? make sure the threads are clean on the block?

Its good, but not as strong i think as you maybe like it to be, if you want to turn very quick both ways then you wont. It slows down the steering alittle but it is stronger. there are a few upgrades you can do, Brand new genuine pump, and modify a couple of fluid ways and that helps. I have also found that it takes some of the load off the steering box. I'm overall very happy with it but it didn't do it quite as well as i hoped, but that will be down to me and thinking ohhhh hydrolic ram that will never fail, but its only an assist not full hydro....

another vote for electrox primer.. excellent product.

keep an eye on that top joint, usually sieze up again. the wd40 works well to test as it frees it off for a short time.

never seen the point in seat covers. i'd be just looking for a set of leather seats instead, you can pick them up cheap and waterproof to a point and comfortable. the price of seat covers would easily cover this. Why hide a nice looking seat. My step mother does this with her new lr every few years, gets top ES spec and then insists on having seat covers..... why have such expensive seats and never see them..... pointless.... . just my view.