ThreePointFive

Nige, that helped immensely. I can now see what's going on. It's starting at 90% and going down to 50% where it stops. It's idling at 1800rpm though, which is not good. I assume there's a target idle speed I'm meant to tell it.

I have just fitted a PWM exactly as per the instructions in the MS Manual but I'm getting no indication it's actually done anything. It seems just as unwilling to start without throttle applied. Is there a more recent version of Nige's manual than Sept 2014 which would have fuller/different instructions? I have a switched ignition feed going to the PWM and an 'earth' (I guess) going back to the appropriate wire on the ECU. Is it possible to have the wires on the PWM back to front or does it not matter? I have the ECU wire on the side the 90 degree pipe comes off and the live on the side the straight pipe is on. Should the idle screw be wound fully in or otherwise changed to let the PWM take full control? Does Tuner Studio show anything to indicate it's working?

I can't speak for the admin team but one land rover forum I was on years ago died when it tried to split everything out. While it can give the appearance of more resources and a wider range of technical discussion, all it ends up doing is diluting what discussion was already happening anyway. It actually makes the forum look dead when you see there are only five topics under one heading, for example. Besides, most of the time when a forum has been running as long as this, you end up using the search function to find those discussions anyway. Scrolling hundreds of subsections just makes it unwieldy. Perhaps the best way is to continue to put the thread under the one for the vehicle that is most appropriate and use the tag functionality to label it as transmission related. It turns out there's no substitute to active members having lively debates.... perhaps like this one?

I don't hate that. Any more photos?

The first thing that came to mind seeing that thumbnail...

In that case, I would go with someting like grip tape, given how terrible chequer plate is for stepping on.

I would definitely not go for chequer plate when it looks so good as-is.

https://www.gumtree.com/p/other-vehicles/1972-land-rover-200-tdi-88-4-cyl-diesel-2500cc-auto-gearbox/1450735009 Brilliant, awful or a ringer. You decide for yourselves.

There's no way a Chinook is lifting this thing off the ground. It looks brilliant though.

Nice, I've never seen earth straps that can double as recovery points before.

I see that this would be cheap but it would be also be uncomfortable. For everyone.

I realised this while writing it out, and factored-in that the swivels take priority over any 'upgrades', but at the moment I don't want to acknowledge the amount of work (or cost) I'm in for. I hate cars.

I did think about Nige but my needs are a little less.... Heavy Duty... 😆 I probably (deliberately) overstated my requirements at the start, but to be clear, this is not a challenge truck but nor is it a road car. It's a difficult middle ground.

I thought this thread would be one of those "what tyres should I fit?" type questions but it seems like it held a bit more interest, glad I asked now...! Ashcrofts will sell a complete diff with an ATB for £1030 or you can get one with an Ashlocker for £1200, so it's a more difficult decision financially than I stated earlier (not sure where I got my numbers from, before). I still like the idea of the control of the full locker but the need for additional equipment around it (and the cost of that) balances against the ease of the ATB. I just don't know if I love the inability to tell when it's working... All of that said, I have an ATB in my LT230 so it would at least match... I've always thought the point in the half shafts was to act as a fuse to prevent more serious damage 'upstream' (a snapped crankshaft apparently being the pinnacle), or at least the drive flanges. My plan will be to get complete diffs with ATBs so I can eliminate any tiredness in my existing diffs which also has the benefit of getting new seals and bearings that I can't/don't want to learn how to replace. Then I can do the shafts, CVs, etc. at a later date, probably throwing in a swivel renewal at the same time.

Had my 90 up on a 2 poster just before Christmas and they are awkward. The chassis sweep upwards just after the rear radius arms gives little flat area and it would be easy to have it slip. I did not like being under it.

I know you didn't post it to get comments and I know thats not what the threat is about... but dang I like the look of this thing. Stephen, I like the look without the cut angle. What you've done on that panel is disgustingly neat.

JCB think its worth messing with.

By the sounds of it, one of these:

You know we're now going to see a 2 inch thick plate of Rolled Homogenous Armor perfectly formed into the shape of a reservior shield.

Looks a lot nicer in profile as a pick up. The fussiness around the rear quarter is neatened up substantially. I hope they'll do a proper canvas top. Are there any plans for a single cab version or is that too niche/too L200-market for them to compete? Before I decide if they've finally made one I like, I'm going to need to see how it fairs in the industry standard 'an HGV fell over on it' crash test. I hear Defender2s excel in this regard.

I don't think the occupants care who's favour it was in.

I don't think I've ever seen one where the truck came off worse....

I read about this on Gwynne Lewis's site while looking at refurb Vs upgrade. It sounds like they really had to work to fit the TDCI in there and it resulted in some sub optimal compromises having to be made. Though I look forward to finding out that's wrong, as with everything else I've said on this thread. 😬

Just when I think I know something, it gets corrected on here! I read they should never be in phase as it creates problems, so both of mine were out of phase. Ah well.