ThreePointFive

Ralph, you are - as ever - a legend. I think you're right, there is meant to be a stud in there but for whatever reason it hasn't got one now. It would make sense as I have found a mystery M10 nut while searching for this missing bolt that doesn't exist. I will order... Neat trick for the bolt hole length, by the way.

I have done something very stupid and lost a bolt which holds the gearbox and Tbox together. It's vitally important I find the right part number OR the length for the bolt, I only know it's M10. Here it is with a stand-in bolt just to stop the oil pouring out, but without knowing the proper length I cannot be sure it has enough thread engagement or isn't too long and doing something nasty inside the box. On this diagram, I think it's this hole circled. Note - no bolt pictured. There is nothing shown in the holes it could be in this diagram: I am stuck. Any help appreciated, I just need a length!

Going by that timing, that'll be when I went with you and Mr Neale. I think you were running the event. I would like to return to 7S, if only to test the car out in its current configuration and see what it can/cannot do. Options to not get too demanding (read: damaging) would really be what I'd look for.

3" and from the air filter to the plenum (60cm?) And from the wing to the filter (1m ish). 3 meters would be enough to make sure. I think Stephen's give you a better offer though, go with that!

I had this exact problem with hose, Wyrem was only available in 30m lengths.... If you want to go halves on 6m (unsure if that leaves you with too little, or if you only need the 640mm)....

That's been on here before...or the other thread. It's wrong yet somehow right.

That makese sense, I couldn't work out how a cash on collection deal could be a scam. The vehicle itself could be 'dodgy', but not a scam in that sense as it relies on physical possession of the asset.

I just cycle any old clothing through a rags stash, when they become uncleanable they get binned. Still wasteful but they've replaced x number of paper towels in that time. Socks make great polishing cloths as you can put your hand inside them and really apply pressure. Makes for a disturbing sock puppet show though.

I worry that's the same brand of Chinesium that the other kits are made of. I'll be going to a fixings supplier as suggested, it's just easier. Can anyone confirm the actual torque figures for these, I have found wildly varying figures.

What is that air pipe made of? I'm looking at options for something that won't rip like the cheap but expensive carp I've got.

A lot of TDCis that have been put on various forums/Auto Trader/Car and Classic at anywhere between 19-40k and not one has moved in over a month. There's been a couple of TDI in ridiculously nice condition that can't acheive £12k. This time last year you could have asked £20k for a middle of the road HT or Pick Up and it would have gone without question, they're hanging around now at less money.

Meanwhile, the arse has well and truly dropped out of the (old) Defender market with only very late or very early models in standard, as-new condition really hitting the figures we're used to seeing. I need to sell my Jag urgently due to the house move and that's worth a fraction of what I paid for it. Can't win.

Well that's fairly conclusive then, I know of a very good fastner supplier locally that I can take an example nut and bolt to and ask for the same (but better). Thanks very much for the assistance, All.

Does anyone have a recommended set of the full nuts and bolts for the propshafts on a Defender? I won't fit Britpart for obvious reasons but I have to say the Bearmach kit was disappointing - they wouldn't take the full torque specified in the book and stripped out. Worse, when removing them for the gearbox removal, I noticed one of the nuts had fully split/cracked. This is too safety critical to mess about with but I stopped speccing the Genuine stuff when I reached £50 for the nuts on their own. Does anyone have a better solution they're happy with?

Both, mostly diameter though. In the end I ordered FRC8220 which was very different from the original and much thicker, but the casing is cut deep enough to accept it. It's not "right" because the mudshield FRC8154 is a completely different design and I don't think will do much of a job, but I am content to run it as-is for now unless there is an obvious bad reason for fitting a thicker seal.

A moment of respect for this forum (specifically Ralph/Soutie) being able to recognise the exact application for something fished out of a pothole that was in all likelihood not even part of a Land Rover, and definitely not related to the problem described. Just shaken loose at exactly the wrong moment. Might sound trite but that is some seriously impressive nerding.

That raises an interesting point as I can feel the heat through my bulkhead, I need to find something that will work on the engine side. For sound deadening I did go full-youtuber in the roof and sides which seemed to have stopped any resonance. I have an Exmoor trim load mat/sound deadening thing which I have never really given a second thought so must be doing something (don't buy one, the fit and finish is awful). I did the doors as fully as you could, if nothing else they give them more weight and a satisfying thunk. The biggest change was when I plastered the transmission tunnel, my gearbox was screaming and yet it quietened it down with only one layer. The issue is now finding a suitable cover, but that's solvable. I know this doesn't answer the exam question as I did the full-coverage approach but it worked...

I don't want to, but I like that 90.

Everything you've listed is standard Land Rover stuff. You can make it as much of a project as you want, chase the rust around with patches or bite the bullet and put it on a galvanised chassis and have done with it, same for the bulkhead and doors. These things don't just die overnight so you've got plenty of time to think about it use it in the meantime.

That crane is Skookum as Frigg, as I believe the saying goes.

Thanks Ralph but therein lies the problem; I can buy it as a kit but I can't find the correct part numbers for just the seal and mudshield. I don't want to buy another flange!

I am having difficulty identifying the correct pinion seal for my rear diff. Axle is off a P reg Disco V8, had a 3-bolt rear flange with the donut on. I've swapped for a 4-bolt flange (STC4858) so bear that in mind... I had mudshield LR017552 already, which should fit seal FTC5258. Having ordered that seal, it was far too small so I'm a bit confused as it's matched to that mudshield. Should a 1996 Disco have a different seal/mudshield to the above?

Sounds like I need to fire my ornithological psychologist. Can't even remember where I read/heard/saw it so not surprised I'm wrong.

Can't play the video as it has a format error, but this sounds (reads) exactly like my issue. I'll be interested to hear it if you do get the video working.

Not to be too OT but I've read that Robins are not friendly at all and their propensity to get up close is actually a furious display to see us off their territory. I just like the idea we're all thinking how adorable and friendly they are while really there is nothing but a hate-filled rage with the burning intensity of a thousand (tiny) suns inside their little heads. It's the small things....