ThreePointFive

I removed the (excellently designed and built) Xcess 4x4 bonnet mounts and it made no difference to the front gap as there is enough flex in the bonnet to take up any additional height they made. Just to be sure, I have removed the rivets on my wing plates and counterstuck them for screws instead, which is a neater solution than the rivets anyway. Just need to paint the plates again. I loosened off the slam panel and front grille panel to try to raise it up to decrease the gap from below but it was already pretty high and I think I gained millimeters at best. @Maverikdo you think I should lower the slam panel to try to pull the bonnet down? I can see how that would work for gaps across the wings but those are reasonably good, but I'm not sure if that would improve the front edge unless the grille pannel was separated from it and pushed up. I am probably completely wrong in how I'm looking at this. My gap is probably 1-2cm bigger than yours, I can just about slide my hand in to operate the bonnet hook thing (though it doesn't do anything if latched down, of course). I think I might have to get it to a 'close enough' state for now and then worry about it post-MOT.

Interesting. I have mine thin-side up if that makes sense. If it doesn't, hopefully this crude diagram does:

I didnt really foresee this starting a debate on the family tree of Land Rover bonnet design but interesting nonetheless. I did some adjustments but still not near calling it finished. I wound down the locator spring to the point where it would just still catch but not as far as before where it wouldn't. When latched it's on pretty tight, the bonnet release is quite violent. I've also drilled out the rivets holding the bonnet up off the wing plates, and it's made some difference. Before: After: This is still big enough to get a hand in and does invite the wrong person to give it a try if it was in a car park so can't leave it at this. The wing lines are good but you can see that the Xcess bracket is holding it up: I'm going to remove the brackets and see if that makes the difference, if it does then I have to either cut the plates to fit or see if I can mount the brackets on the top face of the bonnet return - which I doubt.

I know this is a common problem and there's loads of threads on loads of forums about it, but I think mine is an extreme example and none of the existing information really solves this as they boil down to 'adjust the stops'. I have a panel gap at the front of my bonnet so bad it looks open when it isn't. No, that really is closed. The latch is holding it, it can't be opened without releasing it via the cable, but this is as small as the gap will get. If I put weight on it, I can close it to something near a normal gap but it immediately springs back up. I don't have any bonnet buffer/stop things so there's nothing holding it up, it's like the latch itself is gripping the pin too low (if that makes sense). Is there any way to adjust this down? I have tried tightening the bonnet spring which shortens it as I thought this was pushing the bonnet up, but all that did was to prevent the latch from latching it at all. It's worth noting that the bonnet is catching on a rivet each side where the Xcess bonnet ram kit is fitted which is making the bonnet sit higher but not this high. I'll replace those rivets with counter sunk bolts but they're not the cause.

There isn't that much metal in my entire 90 as you have in swarf.

How much alcohol are we talking about?! I've always liked the idea of one of these as it means less modification to the car and no need to go full expedition spec for the trip to Tesco. Really interested in how you get on with it.

On one off roading day, a convoy of us all parked at the top of a hill to go and look at an obstacle in front, at the bottom. We'd all make our judgments and then go back to our vehicles. I got back to my car to find a Jeep CJ-something-or-other embedded in the rear of it. The handbrake had failed (admittedly I don't know what type they have) and it had rolled down towards the group of ten of us, silently accelerating so none of us would have had a clue it was coming. I'm not sure what Euro NCAP pedestrian safety rating a 1960s Jeep has but I'm guessing it's in the "not good" range. By sheer luck my car caught it after a few meters and prevented the worst, owing to it being in-gear and the wheels turned away from the slope but it was definitely something that made me appreciate why people upgrade their handbrake. I'd only just had mine apart after it filled with mud and then froze, pulling a lining off a shoe. I had just replaced everything and adjusted it so it was at full effectiveness but if I were doing any amount of serious off roading any more, it would be the first thing I'd change. There was no damage to either car but I was not too happy.

Where is the patchy, mottled, running finish that I achieve with every wall I paint white? I don't even have to use flashbangs to create the same effect.

Even a stopped clock tells the right time twice a day. I love everything about what you're doing, please keep the updates coming.

In all honesty I was trying to poke holes in the idea and really couldn't come up with much. When deciding how to do the 4.0 it made sense for me to go with something that was readily understood and supported here specifically, as I knew I was going to have many, many problems and people on this forum are helpful. I'm not likely to be doing a project like this again, but can't see why I would stick to MS as opposed to any other systems. I've watched waaaay too much MotorTrend not to at least look at MSD or something similar.

The only reason I've come up with when thinking through the same 'problem' is the support. These companies may fold and they invariably are using some proprietary code that cannot be unpicked by anyone else/competitors. I do wonder if problems develop, how will anyone be able to lend a hand diagnosing what's going on if no one understands the core functioning of some long-defunct company's product. At least with MS, it is very unlkely to die outright and it can all be easily understood even if it was no longer being developed. MS1 is 'dead' to all developmental intents and purposes, yet it's far from out-of-support. Certainly MS is not a winner on cost grounds alone, which was a surprise when taking it on for the first time. The other reason applicable for most of us is that we're using engines based on technology one-up from hitting one rock with another rock to create sparks, so the complexity of these systems and the efficiencies and performance they can extract is lost on our applications.

That's a good point, I went from a grey to black interior... I have both black and grey fixings though, I'll dig out the bags and get the part numbers tomorrow. LRWorkshop isn't clear which colour you're getting.

Results are in from the injector testing and cleaning. I had 12 (8 on the engine and 4 spare) Two on the engine were leaking (one fixed after cleaning), three (including one leaker) have spray patterns that make them fit for the bin and one spare is completely U/S. So I did end up with a good set of 8.... But only a set of 8. Oh well. Perhaps this will help with some of my running issues.

On mine, they're the plastic pin-rivet things that also hold on the wheel arches, two each card (top left/bottom right) Rivet: MWC9918PMA Insert to door: MWC3136 Some diagrams say it's these, but I have found they don't grip as well: MWC9917 I've just fitted my doors out so this is what worked for me.

I regularly go past Castle Combe and J21 in the same journey so might be able to assist if the above hits a snag. I am sure with enough effort I could even recall where Mr BishBosh lives.

Can't help but notice all of the photos and at least one other commenter have 255s on Wolf rims, they do just seem to be the package to have. Very 'right', as said in other threads. I'm not sure they suit other rims as well though, and I just didn't need MTs for what I have planned but even so I'd have to vote for them too.

Sir Drumstick, would you be willing to take detailed photos of how the hard top is mounted through to the cappings in exchange for internet points? That has the exact setup I'm trying to copy.

Terminates in a T-shaped connector on my (2005) loom. I've used it for the interior light but couldn't find what it was meant for.

That's helpful stuff but until I run in the cam I can't let it Idle. I'm hoping some of my issues are injector related and that it's running lean on some cylinders and pig rich on others which is why not all the exhausts are glowing. At least I can refer to this once it is run in, I'm only aiming for 'not melting the heads' at the moment, fine tuning later. I've done a fair amount of tweaks since the last run including the LPG bungs. If the starter motor hadn't snapped in half on the latest try I might have been able to confirm if any of it has helped. The injectors being ruled out will be a good step closer and at least I'll know they're cleaned and working hard to empty the tank.

I was calling it that because that's what it was! This is my third order of the stuff now, Turners must think I'm running in 6 engines.

Sounds reasonable, at this point I am definitely done with 'pointless trial and error at home'. And to think, my plan was to get it to an MOT-able state by the end of this week. Nope.

Too much science for me.

That's really useful, thanks. I'll also unplug the fuel pump so it stops pressurising the rail while I'm at it. What did you do to address a leaking injector? I have to suspect my new ones are to blame. Good news about the rings then, I'm just always assuming worst case at the moment. If the petrol to oil ratio was any higher I'd be putting it in the tank, so safe to say it will be disposed of. Shame as it's only been in a few months and had about about 2 minutes of actual running.

The gift that keeps on giving has yet again delivered maximum productivity for minimum reason. I noticed when I did the front crank oil seal that I could smell petrol, and out of nowhere the low fuel light came on a few days ago but I haven't even run it since May. I also noticed that it appeared the engine was making oil, according to the dipstick. I dropped the oil yesterday and it stinks like petrol, I am pretty sure I could light it if I wanted. So I have two problems. Firstly, I have to put the ignition onto pos II quite regularly to test out electrics and stuff, so I think the injectors are priming a lot and causing petrol to sit in the cylinders. Secondly, the piston rings are allowing that petrol to leak down... can't be a good sign. I want to take the fuel rail off, put it on a sheet of carboard in a suitable container and see how much it is priming and if I have a leaking injector. As I changed the seals and bought some refurbed injectors it's quite possible one is bad. Shame I don't have any petrol-proof containers of a suitable size. I can't see how to resolve the rings issue without a full tear down.

I think you're right that there would be enough room, but I've managed to convince myself I need a sectional door now and that will be inarguably more secure. I just need to pull my finger out and place the order.