ThreePointFive

Hard to see why an exhaust would limit revs, that sounds like something else and either the installation of the pipe is a coincidence or disturbed something and while being fitted. The back pressure that's often quoted as being essential for proper running has been proven to be a myth (though cylinder scavenging is a real thing and can be effected by manifold lengths and various other things) so I don't think this is the source of your issue. Best thing to do would be to refit the original exhaust and test the running, if it runs better then you know the replacement is at fault. Otherwise, it's back to basics with the old air/fuel/spark. When were the filters and plugs last changed? I just can't see how it would limit revs; you say specifically in neutral, what's it doing in-gear?

I have nothing of any value to add other than to say that is a really nice wagon.

Edit: I made a bad joke and I have removed it.

Far more than the price, the execution or the fact they would only acheive the 'illusion' from one angle, it's just that they're fake that really irks me. These are like those flesh tunnel earings that yoof wear.

Well, bidding ended. Better be sat down when you see what people thought it was worth. In other news, I find these to be a charming addition to any Defender and most definitely in keeping with the whole ethos of the vehicle and its heritage: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184692684351

Is there any reasonable prevention for swollen nuts? Like soaking them in a corrosion inhibitor or similar?

I have bought a set of ATs* on 265/75 despite the fact that I thought the size was 'all show'. The reason is that the size of the contact patch and the tyre section are not the same thing, the measurement is for the latter. So the sidewalls do stick out a fair whack but the actual tread footprint in contact with the road is less than my old 235/85 MTs and at least an inch less diameter. On the other hand, the BFG ATs in 265 are a wide tyre. Also take into account that a 255/85 BFG mud on a Wolf rim is an incredibly heavy package (though no doubting the best combination for 50/50 road/off road use). That diameter of tyre might be perfect for a 1.4 or 1.6 transfer box but on my 1.2, I'd be changing down on hills and taking a hit on fuel economy I imagine. Not sure how you'd tell the difference with the V8 though. *I am not saying the tyre maker name as I haven't run them, have no way to know how they perform and don't want to misadvise. I did a LOT of research before I finally committed but I can't stand by it until I've tried them out.

I don't approve of your methods but I cant disagree with your results. Haven't you got a build thread to be creating? 😁 You jest, but I did look at all ways of creating the extra height. Looks like I can get the clearance I need with a different door design thanks to the amazing members on here.

My garage is single brick and made by the lowest bidder, an insulated door would be like sound proofing one end of a cardboard box! Also it is a heat sink in summer and releases that heat inside to unbearable levels, anything that might prevent that heat from leaving could be a bad idea! Seems I'm looking at about £1000 all in for a door on https://www.garagedoorsonline.co.uk/ so a significant cost, need to make sure my measurements are accurate or I could really regret it.

Well I think that solves that one. Electrical door.... now I'm thinking of the possibilities...

All, My Land Rover won't fit in my garage. The issue is the height of the up and over door, not the apperture itself. When in the up position it hangs below the frame, meaning that if the door and its frame were not there, it would just squeeze in at about the red line drawn in below. The number of factors that could make this red line wrong doesn't fill me with confidence. I can let down tyre pressures, compressing it down with weight, etc. but none of that is going to make the vehicle usable. I need to look at replacing the door with something either side hinged or a roller. I've read up and it looks like caution is required with side hinging doors as they put a side-load on the supporting pillar which it is not designed for. It would be the simplest to install though, would give me the whole doorway clear of any framing and because it would be on the outside, would gain me a foot or so extra room in the doorway itself. I have a steel lintle above the door which could mount a roller, but that requires a frame. I'm assuming that could be placed flush with the edges of the pillars though. So what do people recommend for a situation like this? Is a pair of side-hinged doors the way forward?

Just replace his Batt-ery

Mo, thank you very much for doing that, but can you make those measurements smaller by 50mm and resend? I don't like them. 😫

Much appreciated Mo, no longer going with 255/85s so I've ruined the full-height measurements you took before for me! And too many differences between vehicles to do it any other way.

Mo, do you want front or rear glass channels in the door? The rear (longest) one is 1m exactly.

I don't want to even post this question but needs must... I'm trying to work out the height of a Defender but taking out any variables like suspension age/sag, tyre height, vehicle load, etc. which will make it true for any Defender 90 hard top/station wagon. So, if anyone can help me out by providing the following two measurements I would be extremely, extremely grateful. It dictates whether my car will fit in the garage or not. The measurements I would like are: Red line is bottom of the crossmember to the top of the roof Blue line is the edge of the floor of the tub to the tope of the roof. I'd ideally like the two measurements just to make sure if there's not some factor that screws everything up which I've not accounted for. My roof is a mid-late 90's one, so doesn't have any ribs - if these could be left out of the measurement!

Looking at the bidding now, it seems like eBayers don't agree with our views. I suspect people are pricing based on the vehicle under the "upgrades". Or they're winding up the seller.

People in the comments are not being kind.

I prefer my cardboard wheels. The TDCI dash conversion would have taken a lot of work and I would find it quite desirable in a TD5 Defender. However, this is exactly the fit and finish I was talking about in the wood interior thread. "Baggy" is the only way that leather can be described.

Not solved the core question but I have a proof of concept for the fire extinguisher idea. £15 gets you one of these, which fits like this: I am not comfortable to have a 5kg lump of metal strapped to a piece of plastic, supported by two slots in plastic, held to the bar by plastic. But I can at least see if this position works practically.

The fuel tank looks Series, the cappings are correct (both real lights and the fuel filler) and the tub length is definitely too short for a 90. The front end from the bulkhead forwards is of course Defender and it's running on coils but we've seen that conversion before. Can't see any engine photos though so no idea what's going on under the bonnet. Not sure it's a ringer but I'm no Series expert.

Same, always used cheap ones. They may fail or flicker after a couple of years but for the sake of a few quid and the brightness/low power consumption I find they work.

Interesting that no one has said POR 15, I know it's horrible stuff to apply but I assume that makes it stick well.

Stonechip. I wish I hadn't as it's not hard wearing. I would want to paint it with something else but stripping it all off isn't really practical.

Well, I've put it all back together. I can't say I've found anything obvious. The lifters all lift, the cam isn't flat, all the valves open and close the same amount and there's no obvious wear anywhere. I've borescoped the cylinders and can't see anything bad happening in there, but I haven't taken the sump off. I reconsidered taking off the timing cover an have just made sure the seal looks ok and isn't caught up, it's an annoying job and I did it some time in November and didn't run it since so I don't see what I would tell from it without also taking off the bottom end shells, which I'm not going to. I have taken the opportunity to look at the injectors, I have replaced four from cylinders that were getting red and replaced all of the seals and the filters of the remaining ones. I did finally take out the LPG fittings that were tapped into the manifold just before the injectors. If nothing else they looked terrible but were wound in to different depths so were more obstructive in some chambers than others. My main reason was that I have no way to know how properly they were sealed or if the LPG system is why it ended up out of the vehicle in the first place. I've replaced them with some loctited M8 x 10mm bolts that sit perfectly. Before photo: There is no "after" photo. I'm a bit dubious that nothing has really changed, so expecting a different result is pointless but I have nothing I can confidently point to as the problem. I did paint the fuel rail as it was rusty, so if that doesn't make a difference I don't know what will......