ThreePointFive

I'm going to have all the same problems with door cars, I have Bearmach ones and they look good but I also noticed the snapac stud things don't grip too well into the female inserts. I'm going to put some sound deadening into the cards if I get the drumming you've had, but fully expecting to have to go genuine after looking at this. Where you did buy your water shedders? Everywhere was out of stock when I looked, and there are some smaller internal ones that are pure unobtainium now. Cut-up heavy duty waste sacks it might have to be. Last question - when you built your doors up, did you have to screw in the plastic spacers and the window channels? SP-4x4 said they didn't need it when I enquired, but I can't see how that is the case when Genuine and Bearmach do.

Defender double pack Can't quite believe the 90 has an MOT. I can believe they don't have the V5. Features include extra-privacy 100% tint rear windows. The 'new chasis' for the 110 seems to be remarkably un-new. Wonder if they have the V5 for that one...

I would run away. That chassis looks like it has been blown over very recently and the bodywork is a respray (look at the hinges and bolts - all covered) and they've even covered the rear chassis tabs in body colour where they couldn't be bothered to mask them separately. You cannot asses that vehicle's true condition, but the fact there appears to be mud under the chassis paint says it all to me. Look at the inner tub mudflaps. This kind of vehicle is far more appealing to me than the boyracer one above where you can sense the frustration they had with trying to make it something it's not. However, I think this example is where an average condition vehicle is shown a lick of paint and a few (admittedly quite good) upgrades, the sum of which is not worth the asking price.

Just to close this one off, Karen finished my steering wheel and it is now back with me. The quality of what she's done is perfect - in that you can't tell she's done anything. It looks completely unrepaired and as-new. I could not be happier with the job she's done and would recommend her to anyone looking for interior work to be done. I could have just eBayed a good condition used wheel for a bit more cost, but that would have been wasteful and this wheel is of known origin/legitimacy and knowing this really is a new wheel is worth it. 10/10 attention to detail and customer service from Bustle About Ltd.

Yep I still have the bar one from mine. Doesn't give you quite as much confidence as a solid metal plate. These are one of the few end of run Defenders that I think come close to being worth a premium. They capture what the last 60 years was all about very well rather than showing how much like a new Audi you can try to make one. £50k wouldn't even be stupidly unrealistic in the current market (unfortunately).

So if it wasn't what it is, it would be good? 😆 I agree.

Reminds me of that 6x4 we had last year with the 'Bulletproof' grille and the advert that essentially said it was a deathtrap waiting to happen. Looks better executed than that, at least. I might have missed it, but does it say/show it is actually 6x6? Even putting aside the legalities - which are huge - I cannot see how anyone running a business would want to take on a 36 year old vehicle at a price above most entry level pickups of similar capacity, and nor would any 'enthusiast' in their right mind part with £30k for a tipper they don't need and that will have no added off road ability. Who is the target audience here?!

There's usually a good number on Auto Trader, just look for 'galvanised chassis' in any advert anywhere and it's a good indication.

Seems weird to spend so much time and effort on a car only to move it on because the result is exactly what it was always going to be. I cannot see how they're not taking a huge hit on the money spent. Otherwise looks nicely done, I just wonder if it's a good car to start with when (as Jeremy says) everything will be modified in some way.

What's said above covers it but with regards to modifications, particularly things that make it either a newer-looking car or "extreme off road to the max", try to familiarise yourself with standard before deciding you like it. The market is flooded with tarted up cars that have no attention paid to their mechanicals or functionality. Some mods can genuinely enhance the car, such as an expensive set of seats that make it more comfortable on a long drive, but some mods (light bars, bumpers, gear knobs..) are bought off ebay for £15 but somehow used to talk up the price. Same with cosmetics, like a set of chequer plate that's hiding the need for new doors in a year's time. 'Standard' doesnt give much room to hide things, you can instantly see what is right or wrong with the car and if you're happy to proceed. Modified might mean welding or other work that you have no way to assess the competence of - or why it was done. Personally - and I will be unpopular for this - I would walk away from anything that has or did have a lift kit. There are a number out there and all vary in quality and engineering. These cars are built around a very specific ride height, wheel sizes and UJ angles, changing that puts far more mechnical components under stress than the ones that have been changed and also invites the car to be driven that extra 10% where further damage is likely. But more than anything else, just don't let the fact it is modified inflate the price. I'd rather start with something plain and make it my own (saving money where I don't want to modify) than have to pay more and be stuck with someone else's idea of good.

This:

Great photos. The video of the elephant really makes me wonder how anyone would want to hurt them.

Just saw this, that's a really nice way to spend a couple of days and it comes through on the photos. I think we could all do with a few days spent to ourselves at the moment, especially in the mountains. There's something very special about both the Alps and Pyrenees. Reminds me of a trip I took with 3 Defenders/6 blokes to the Alps in 2012 (mine was under restoration even back then). I yearn to go back but doubtful I ever will in the 90 thanks to fuel costs and the increasing paperwork of trying to get out and enjoy yourself.

I thought as much, I cannot see them developing a new 1.5 engine when everything is heading to electric, a smaller platform and then making it FWD while bearing the name that they still reserve for the most capable off road. The changes in Jaguar do appear to be true, though, which really shows what utter chaos the company is going through at the moment.

All according to this article. Land Rover’s ‘Baby’ Defender Due In 2022 With 1.5-Liter Three-Cylinder And FWD? BY Cristian Gnaticov | Posted on November 2, 2020 29 70 SHARES Share to Facebook FacebookShare to WhatsAppWhatsAppShare to MessengerMessengerShare to TwitterTwitterShare to RedditRedditShare to Pinterest Pinterest Jaguar Land Rover has different new models in the making, and it appears that the ‘baby’ Defender is one of them. Mind you, this isn’t the first time we have heard rumors that the British automaker is planning a new SUV that would slot under the Defender. Now, however, WhatCar reports that it is approximately two years away. Watch Also: Which Is The Better Off-Roader, The New Land Rover Defender Or The Old One? The British website claims that it should launch with front-wheel drive and a small 1.5-liter, three-cylinder petrol engine, with other powertrains, including a plug-in hybrid, joining the lineup later on alongside the four-wheel drive variant(s). Previous reports have claimed that the ‘baby’ Defender will be based on a shorter and more affordable version of the company’s modular aluminum platform. While the full-sized off-roader is listed from a little over £40,000 (equal to ~$51,800) in its home market, the smaller SUV is expected to start at around £25,000 (~$32,400). If true, then it would become more affordable than the Discovery Sport too, which is priced from nearly £32,000 (~$41,500) in the United Kingdom. The official name of the model is unknown, but it has been reported that it might be dubbed either the Land Rover 80 or the Land Rover Defender 80. WhatCar believes that it’s likely a new moniker will be used and it might even start a sub-brand for more affordable Land Rovers Take with a huge pinch of salt, as JLR seems to be in disarray and is chopping models left and right at the moment to try to make sense of a mess everyone saw coming. https://www.carscoops.com/2021/03/opinion-jaguar-were-right-to-cancel-the-xj-but-the-rest-doesnt-make-sense/

The numbering sequence on these switches is an actual crime.

I'm not even trying to find new Defender videos and yet even I have noticed a trend to highlight issues with the tech or reliability, and then draw out 'the saga' over as many videos as possible. One guy in particular who has a very (unintentionally) ironic YouTube channel name is certainly milking the ever living funk out of some issues with his wade sensors.

Ralph, thanks, it looks like those are the ones I would need. While it would be useful to have an index of what seatbelt is what type, it's probably not practical. For those who didn't already spot the mistake and to close this one off in case anyone else stumbles into this - the front seatbelts dont go up the inside of the trims I showed above, those holes are for the rear passenger ones. Looking now, it seems obvious as they are angled into the load bay, not the front. I'm quite disappointed as it's a more elegant solution for them to be concealed, and now I have two holes I need to invent covers for. You'd think HardTop interior trims would assume no seats fitted in the rear, but apparently not. If nothing else, this thread shows that you do need to be mindful with your seatbelt part numbers that there are at least three different types (not including the clips and their anchors), which diagrams do not always show.

All, thank you, really good advice and just what I expected. I will give a VOSA office a call and just see theoretically what they would want as Ralph did, but with a view to sending just V5 with colour and engine changes. I am very wary of trying to be too helpful and causing someone who doesn't understand this is not some Spectre-ish special build to press the wrong button. For a vehicle that will look entirely standard, there is quite a list of underlying modifications I've accumulated so I just want to make sure I'm absolutely legit.

I have a habit of asking questions that have already been asked repeatedly, but I am specifically after the thoughts/opinions of people who have been through the process or the similar DVLA hoops. Most interested in where the pitfalls in this process so I can make it easiest for both sides - I am not looking for advice on how to bypass the system, or for discussion about IVA/SVA. As I move towards completing my rebuild, I need to get the paperwork sorted with DVLA. It is clear from all that I have read that my vehicle is most definitely rebuilt but not radically altered. For those who don't know, I took a fairly-original yet thoroughly beaten up 1988 V8 90, stripped it completely and did a complete 'nut and bolt' rebuild onto a brand new galvanised chassis but modernised much of it using various newer parts. Points wise I am not too worried: https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration/rebuilt-vehicles A rebuilt vehicle can keep its original registration number if you can prove you’ve used: the original unmodified chassis or bodyshell (car or light van) - N/A a new chassis or monocoque bodyshell of the same specification as the original (car or light van) - new Richards chassis to same specification as original (but galvanised) You must also have 2 other major components from the original vehicle from the following lists. For cars or light vans: suspension (front and back) - All replaced with springs, Superpro polybushes, shocks, so while standard spec, not original. steering assembly - Steering box, shaft, column and everything down to the axle is original axles (both) - on P reg Disco 1 axles, so no. (blew up my front axle and replaced with an RR 10 spline many years ago, wanted the rear disc brakes so made sense to swap as a set) transmission - LT85 and LT230 engine - 4.0 out of a Range Rover, so no. All in, I have a chassis, steering assembly and transmission so just squeaking through. I am assuming the transmission and steering box are original to the car - who knows what happened in the 20 years before I bought it. The bodywork is a mix of a TD5 bulkhead, TD5/200tdi front end, original tub and floor plates, TD5 dash and 300TDi roof and sides. It's a real mix but doesn't impact on the points, just general 'originality' is not there any more. I was going to send off for the colour change and engine change on the V5, which is where some exprience would help. Is it better to declare those two things on the V5, wait for the change and then submit the rebuilt vehicle form, or should those go straight onto the rebuilt form? DVLA is like any other Government department where making it simple for them will get the best result. Give opportunity for mistakes by making it complicated, and they will never disappoint to disappoint. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/278783/V627X1_270913.pdf What the website doesn't really go into is what happens next. I assume if it doesn't read like a simple rebuild, they will want a ful inspection (or possibly an IVA but trying not to mention that in this section...). I also understand they will want to see receipts for the new engine and an engineer's report for fitting it - I did that myself and bought it on eBay 10 years ago so no receipt. I have done almost everything myself except for the brake pipes, so I don't have an engineer's report - but could get one if required as a mate who is a mechanic/MOT tester is going to look over the whole vehicle before it goes anywhere near a road anyway. I cannot be the only one in this situation so assume it's not a problem. So that's it really, what are people's thoughts, experiences and what happens in the process? If this does get into the realms of IVAs (because that's what it might be) then I'll need to have this removed. I'm not expecting that all of the vehicles we're had rebuilt on here have been IVA'd.

The wade sensors are in that region.

I'm just looking at the Garmin camera now, not cheap at £100 but looks to be smaller and higher quality than a lot of offerings. How would you find it using one as a general (non-hitching) reversing camera? I am unsure how geared up for live viewing it is. At least with a company like Garmin, the Chinese state doesn't get to watch whatever I do with my vehicle or on my phone by downloading some unknown app for a suspiciously cheap camera off ebay.

That was exactly what I thought so if we both were reminded of the same vehicle, did they not suceed in some weird way?

I know this subject has been touched on multiple times, and I am sure I even inputting in one recent discussion, but I can't find it now. I am interested in working out which seal belts (by part number) fit to which vehicles, both in terms of year and body style. The reason for this is that I have messed up and purchased the type that secures the bottom end to the reel mounting bracket (BTR8410), as below: On the old CSW trims I had, this would have been fine as the seatbelt top anchor is on the outiside and doesn't need to pass through anything: The problem is, I have newer style interior trims where the belt needs to thread through and then down to the lower anchor, which it canot do with these belts as they're fixed at both ends. BTR8410 (and the matching one for the other side) were ordered based on this diagram, which shows the type I want but evidently these part numbers don't relate to the diagrams. It's also noted as being for a soft top despite being the same as my car originally had fitted (separate anchor points). This diagram states it is for Hard Top, Pickup, Chassis Cab and 90SW - and shows the same all-in-one reel/anchor as I've got. This one shows the same again. So, It would be very useful to work out what seat belt configurations relate to which part numbers, and for which body style as I cannot be the only person coming up with this problem. Either way, is there a part number for a pair that definitely bolts to the lower bracket that goes down at the very base of the seat box? If anyone wants to buy a pair of the other type, mine are brand new and unused.

Was there any explanation as to what they were trying to acheive or why? They must have had a very specific look in their mind, I am genuinely curious as to how they feel about the result and what the motivation was. There's a fair amount of effort gone into it, like movng the hinges and slam pannel, the sheet metal in making up the sides. Then making a hole in the raised section for no apparent reason. And that's not even mentioning the paintwork. So many questions to be answered. On a side note, looking back through this thread there are now many ebay ads that are gone forever, with only the comments here as a testament to their existence. To prevent this important historical record from being lost, I think screenshotting the adverts might be a good way to preserve them forever, and so that the generations to come don't repeat our car modifying mistakes.