ThreePointFive

I'll be wanting a bigger V8! It was nice of you to sail past after watching me struggle to keep to 55, and probably noticed I am not a motorway driver!!! Oh and I did wave back in case you didn't see it, think it was obstructed by the A pillar. No one has yet explained to me what this LCH thing is!

Oh yes, definetly did. I want to go back now. Thanks Pugwash for letting me passenger for the water etc. and testing my off road knowledge! I had a really good weekend apart from the rain, especially when Tim's wagon disapeared in front of me on the Motorway because it was so heavy and it felt like one big aquaplane, that was not fun. Even the drive home was good apart from that even if my car seemed to be underpowered compared to everyone else's...

That was an enjoyable weekend, only got a few pictures though. Here's a photo I was told to take of some clever trailer loading technique...

Sorry to steal the topic further, just wanted to thank Western for the common sense, they were indeed on the wrong sides, fixed now. By the way, until that scorpion racing thread I had only a vauge understanding of why they're so opposed, now I know.

I had hoped to get to the next DRD but due to 'budget constraints' I am going to struggle! Anyone want to hire a part time car valeter, coincidentally?

Sorry, I meant in the rear springs section directly below that, they're listed as D90 only, but no positions.

Glad someone asked this as I was curious what the colour markings meant on my new springs. I did a search of the technical archives and found this site, is that the one refered to above? It refers to NRC9449 and 9448 but doesn't give their position on the axle left or right, does this mean it doesn't matter or they did not have that data?

Is the constant fear of scraping your bodywork what makes a Land Cruiser so much more interesting than those "boring" 90s?

I would like to come along too, if I can sort out the funding, but it is unlikely at the moment. Anyone got 300 litres of unleaded they don't need and a Bowser I can tow it with?

The Britpart Gaz shocks I ordered did come with bushes if that helps.

Yep I still wish to attend this one, I haven't got my schedule for next year but unless it coincides with uni in any way, I'll be there.

Ian, it is an original V8. It was in the red at the last drive round day I did so I need to get this sorted before 7 Sisters or I'll be having a rather not fun weekend. I will try anti freeze strength as it was a higher concentrationt than before. Cheers guys.

There is still a problem even after I have fitted a new viscous, the viscous itself isn't giving any resistance even at normal running temperatures, it's looser to turn than my broken one was at the same temperature. Is there anything that could be stopping heat getting to the viscous to make it work? Also getting a fluctuation in heat, with it changing quite rapidly. Interested to know of anything that could solve this (I know there are topics on fluctuating heat but not on a new viscous not working as well, could this be related).

I have the Safari equip wheel carrier/hi lift mount and it's a very nice bit of metal, if anyone is thinking about it. My only complaint is the powder coat is lifting after only a year or so. As Les said, at the back it remains much cleaner than the rest of the vehicle. I have made the mistake of not using a hi-lift cover when out with it, but thanks to this thread I will be looking for something now. Personally I don't carry the hi lift unless I think I might have to use it, that is only when going off road. I know everyone here intends to use theirs, but I think stickers telling people you have a hi lift are much cheaper if you only want to look like you're going off road. I know people who carry one on the rack and obviously day-to-day it's easier to keep it up there, I'm not suggesting everyone is a poser, but some people are very overt about their ownership of a jack... As an aside, nice car, Godlykepower.

Ah good idea. I'm waiting for the primer to dry before I take it off again and have a go with the hot air gun. At least it's only the front of one rim so far, not too much time wasted.

All I could find in any shop I know of that might sell it was brush-on etch primer, from Mill Auto Supplies. I've near enough finished removing the paint from the wheels, and I started to apply the primer but it's bubbling around some areas, possibly where I couldn't remove all the old paint as it's too tight to get the wire brush into. I can't see any way of removing this paint, and I think it will ruin the finish of the wheels so I don't quite know how to remedy it.

Just to set something straight, the Snatch isn't unarmoured, it's got the same level of protection as those vehicles used in NI (they're a development of the ones used by the NIPS if I remember correctly). You can open a whole can of worms on the subject, but when there are bombs used in Iraq (and so probably Afghanistan) capable of destroying the American main battle tank, something like a Snatch that's designed more for urban operations with small arms fire rather than explosions in mind (again, if I remember correctly, I know no more on the subject than anyone else) hasn't got much of a chance. It's not just the design of the Snatch land rover which is at fault, it's that until now the army didn't have the foresight to procure vehicles which are designed to be used where the Snatches aren't. That's why now much bigger 6x6 and 8x8 vehicles are coming into use, such as the Mastiff and the US Stryker. At least that's my understanding of it, it's a highly emotive issue and I could be completely wrong, I hope I've not upset anyone with this and someone (one of the servicemen on the forum) can correct me if wrong.

There was one up at Bristol airport during the terror alert last year if I remember rightly.

Thanks for the replies. I don't have time or know of facilities to get them shot blasted, a wire brush on a drill is the best I can do. I won't bother with the plastikote then, I'll go and buy proper etch primer. Cheers for the link Les but it doesn't work, I'll google the name.

Hi all, I'm respraying some 8 spokes and have been looking for etch primer, but can't find any at any of the DIY shops around. Where can you get it from? I bought Plastikote metal primer instead, will this be useless? The wheels are off the rims so I need to get a hard wearing finish that will not flake off under pressure washers, or stone chips. It's especially noticable as the rims used to be white underneath, though I am going to bare metal in a lot of places due to rust spots. Is there any technique to doing wheels I should know of? Cheers

I have just taken the 90 for the first run since I did the brakes and while it can stop very well now, the rear drums are getting very hot. I only covered about a mile yet the outside of the drums are too hot to touch. Refitting the new drums was a tight fit, they barely fitted over the shoes and so must be in contact with them constantly. There was no more adjustment in the adjuster or anywhere else that I could see, the pistons on the wheel cylinders were as far in as they'd go. Is there somewhere you can adjust the clearance other than the single adjuster on each back plate? Is it just a case of new shoes and new drums not being worn enough yet? Last thing I want is a failure or for them to get so hot they cause a blowout or fire. I've been put off doing anything brake related from now on, but I need to at least get this finished so answers urgently needed please.

I find the biggest drawback to this search function is the lack of an ability to search for all words in the term. For example, brake drum shoes will return all results for brake, all results for drum, etc. Do a search for this and it is basically a list of every post made in the last few days!

This picture was taken at night.

Pretty much sorted now, drums all back together and replaced the return springs just for good measure. Going to get the cylinders replaced at a later date, I don't have the equipment to do it here. One question, there's a peg on the shoe and one opposite on the back plate. The return spring wouldn't fit into the notch on the peg on the shoe, as it fouled the adjuster. At the moment it's hooked onto the peg but the other side of the adjuster, nearer the shoe itself. It seems secure, but will the slightly different angle or fact it's not fixed in one place on the peg be an issue? Not sure how to sort it out if it has to be on that notch.

I have done one side, I jacked up one side of the chassis and used an axle stand with a block of wood on it, then used the jack to lower the axle, spring poped out and new one in. Out of interest, from reading the first posts it seems the advice is to lower the axle in one go, what that be with a trolley jack?