Ex Member

I had a bit of a look. On the front, NRC9448 and NRC9449 should do what you want. On the rear, OME 755 might work, but I'm not sure of the data, plus the spring rate might be too low for your liking if it is correct. You could us NRC6904/6389 which will drop you a bit too much. If you include Airlift bags with them, it would give you around the 50 mm drop at the minimum pressure of 5 psi and allow you to maintain that height as load is added by increasing the pressure.

I used to be in a club that was around 50% 80 series cruisers (I used to live in Australia). The front axle failures, on stock tyres, were very common. Almost all of the on trip failures in that club were Toyotas. I have no illusions that they are designed any better than anything else. When I say stock are around the same strength, I really meant the 80 series stuff is +-30% stronger than stock Rover stuff. In other words, it is ALL carp for any hard use....... One guy in the club with a 75 series on 37s did two front axles, one rear, a gearbox and transfer case all within a 12 month period. He eventually gave up trying to make it strong enough and changed to a Patrol to build up. Most of the serious guys seemed to be moving to Patrols because they felt the newer front axles were too weak.

1) Make sure the stock heater is in good form. They get out of adjustment over time - Open up heater vents, in stock form they restrict the airflow. - Check heater flap adjustment - Make sure the thermostat does not leak when closed. 2) Insulate... The stock insulation is quite poor. 3) Add a second coolant based heater that just recirculates and heats. For a 110, these are a good idea. There are low cost aftermarket ones that take up little room. I get to drive in -40 weather every winter, so probably have a little more experience than the UK folk...

That does not really help the OP. He is in Canada and needs to make what he paid a lot of money to work....

Really, you can not expect anything to ever just fit on a Defender. The build tolerances are plus or minus an inch. And I'm being serious here. I think it is understood that no aftermarket stuff will just fit as no two trucks are close to the same.

IME...at least 50% of NEW thermostats leak when closed. You should always check your tstat to make sure it is leak free when closed. If there is any heat in the upper hose before it reach normal operating temperature, it is leaking.

Or push your foot further to the floor................

Sounds like bog standard UK business practice..... Can't help, but usually posting here gets someone local to head over and break his legs calmly solve the problem.

I always thought getting the 2 piece system ESR158/NTC4221 was a better option than the one piece ESR158. With ESR158, the pipe can not be removed with the engine and/or the gearbox cross member in place. Note that the genuine Land Rover 200TDI conversion kit says to reuse the TD downpipe (and complete exhaust).

As I understood it, the 2 exhaust partnumbers and the different bolting systems were both used on 200TDI and are both the same pipe size.

The R&P design is a lot stronger. Stock halfshafts and CV joints are about the same as the stock Rover stuff. Once you have the Longfields in there you will be around 50% stronger than the Ashcroftted Rover axles you have now.

Sorry that I have not had time to look. If you are not in a rush, I'll look next week. I'm off to a trials over the weekend.

I'm pretty sure they use the same downpipe. The factory bracket for the exhaust to the block costs very little.

The picture I posted above is right out of the genuine workshop manual for the 200TDI. Seriously, pulling the engine makes life easier. It is not a big job. We did one the other day and the out/in part of the job was 4 hours. 2 people, some hand tools and a crane. These must be the easiest vehicles on the planet to work on....

OK, just checked.... Nope, ladder frame requires engine out of vehicle....

I'm guessing 1 mm of height loss is NOT a small bend. I'm not sure if you can get at the bearings with the engine in place as the ladder frame needs to come off which (I think) has bolts in from the clutch cover which need the engine off to access. It should not hurt anything to use the engine to run it. The cylinder will just be down on compression. There is no sense in not fitting new bearings.

If it is not travelling up as far as the others, it is bent. The fun part....is that bent con rods cannot be removed from the engine....they need to be cut in half. You are best to remove the engine and work on it. It only takes a couple of hours to pull the engine. You might as well do the bearings, rings and hone the bores while you are at it. Really a full overhaul might as well happen.

A really large one would not work in the stock location do to the belt arrangement. There is not anough belt wrap to drive a really large alternator. 100 Amp is about as big as that location could take. If you do not have anything in the air conditioning pump location, you could mount any large alternator there with its own belt.

Oops, brain fart. I see you bought the "standard" 70 amp one from Woods. That is a nice price. I wonder if I could convince them to ship to Canada. They seem pretty keen on only accepting UK credit cards.

Let us know if it fits!!! LOL... Take a photo or two if you can. Note that it has a bigger shaft (17 mm) than the small units, so you will need a larger pulley or drill out your current one.

Lighter springs and airlift bags. Adjust the pressure to suit the load. If you want to measure the height of the current springs, I can figure out height changes with different springs.

Are you sure? I've looked at V8 alternators and the mounting dimensions are quite different.

I forgot to get back on this. They wanted £95 for shipping to Canada, so I passed....

The pilot bearings are different sizes, so although it did fit, it was not done correctly.

I've been using Redline MTL for years in the LT77. It is very specifically designed to replace ATF in manual gearboxes while providing better synchronizer performance. IMO, it does work better at making the synchros work and at a higher range of temperatures. The reasoning as to why it should work better in the syncros is explained here: ttp://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/54.pdf It is specifically designed to have a high dynamic coefficient of friction and low static cof. This aids the synchros in working faster without collapsing the oil film.