Ex Member

They are supposed to be 88C thermostats. They open at 88 and close at 83 according to my VDO gauge. If it ever runs above 88 C, there is not enough air flow across the rad or some other problem. VDO sender model 323-026 (5/8”-18 UNF) is a direct fit for the 200TDI Defender engine.

Just grind the areas you need to weld first. You need to do that regardless. It is best not to weld over the zinc due to the fumes and the weld contamination.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=30261

As stated, that area on a normal early Defender with an LT77 is tight to the tunnel and there is no room without modifications. Maybe the later seat boxes have more clearance.

The heater should put out lots of hot air when adjusted properly and in good nick. As mentioned, the first and most important things to check. 1) Thermostat is not leaking when closed. The engine temperature should come up quickly to the normal temperature and you should see a dip when the thermostat opens. 2) Move the hot/cold flap to hot and make sure it is pressing tight against the stops. If not, pop the cable clip off and adjust.

No, you need to take the whole stub axle and hub assembly. It is quite a downgrade in strength though.

Not even close. The Salisbury ring and pinion is 2 to 3 times the strength of a Rover.

Switching to the 1.2 t. case seems to really lower the gearbox temps as it is running slower.

I suspect you have a battery drain somewhere. Check it out. Get a small automatic trickle charger, put it in the battery box and leave it plugged in. See here: http://soneil.com/12_volt.html They make great chargers and are locallish....

Do you mean 285? Normally they are 33" x 11.5" and fit on a stock Defender (just barely). They are best fitted to an aftermarket rim as standard ones keep them in a bit too tight.

Be careful using pot setup. Running two low of a voltage will prevent the motor from turning and cook the windings eventually.

If you want simple, Cole-Hersee makes 3 speed switches with built in resistors... http://www.elecdirect.com/product/b4ad6ed0-ebf7-4748-9290-212c49a454a9.aspx

Sure it does. The length of line after the NRV can self drain as air works into the system back through the nozzle.

I'm surprised there is not a switch. Most vehicles have one. There are certain situations where it makes things worse.

As stated in that post, the only real reason for the maximum power difference is the different governed maximum speed. So unless you need to rev above 3800 rpm, they will feel the same.... Turn up the fueling, if you want more power.

Yes, it will go in the front. I'm pretty sure I've bought genuine one around that price. I doubt it makes much difference. It is the same brake drum for 40 years. I have used Britpart ones and they seem to do exactly the same thing as the genuine ones. Here is an option for something in between? http://shop.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Drums.html

You should be able to get the drums machined. New ones should be less than £15.... You want to keep a 10 spline diff??? Why??

Surge will only happen at low rpm and high boost.

Read the first post. He said it had a head gasket failure.

I suggest putting the NRV close to the washer nozzle. It prevents the line from self draining out the nozzle over time. Freezing? Do you guys use plain water? That does not wash very well.... For a switch , you could get the genuine one. I just went to a wreckers and picked a suitable one of of some car, that runs both the wiper and wash. You can get the proper pump wiring lead cheap here: http://www.autosparks.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=2010

Yes they sell them in petrol versions.

Just guessing, put I suspect the slave should match the master. If you have a 300TDI master, then you should have a 300TDI slave.... Like I say, ask Dave Ashcroft.... Friendly, helpful and does not guess...

I would suggest that it is best to talk with Dave Ashcroft. The short shaft R380 is very special and he will know which slave cylinder is correct. A list of other slave parts is shown at: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_119.html

Do you have a reliable source for that information? OME publishes 280, but I never believed it.

FYI, this webpage is mine, http://members.shaw.ca/jbarge/springinfo.html Certainly some data is quite suspect. Ones that I have seen or had other measure are noted and I have adjusted data based on calculations and not actual testing. Maybe I should build a spring tester... Maybe someone could convince ARB to dig up their test data and send it to me....