Ex Member

PS Belt 13mm x 28.5" (725 mm) Alt Belt 10mm x 40.5" (1030 mm)

I do.

Fair enough. Measure up a 2.5NA then. The holes are in the center of the circular areas. If you are building stuff for sale, I would simply purchase a stock air con bracket and measure that..... Make sure the bolts make it all the way through the casting without touching the timing belt. The aluminum is not the best and strips easily, so full depth bolts are a damn good idea. This is of little help as my own bracket is in the way, but it is a picture anyway.....

The Disco engine is completely different in this area, so that is of no help. It is very OBVIOUS. 10 mm tapped holes in the center of where they appear to go.....

Have a look at a 2.5NA. They are all tapped that I have seen and the mount is exactly the same. That is why I tapped mine, to move the compressor bracket over to the 200TDI.

No and I've never seen one with factory tapped holes. I tapped mine. I think that they are M10. The center locations are pretty obvious.

LOL, I work in the welding industry. I rarely see a professional welder with an auto dimming helmet. It make no difference when you know what you are doing....

So what is their price?

Please do not weld MIG downhand....... It is hard enough to get a strong MIG weld without doing that..... What you are trying to do is called overhead. You need the welder set just right and then you need to weld it just right. You should practice on test pieces where you have good access and viewing first. Personally I would suggest using stick instead. It is very hard to get strong welds with a MIG and much easier with stick. It is also easier to work in tight situations.

Just get some regular old lead BBs. They cost basically nothing and do exactly the same thing.

The old ones had the little hose go to the air space. It works fine. Air can not accumulate in teh radiator as gravity forced the air out. The level of coolant in the tank should be higher than the radiator. I actually think the newer one is worse as air can get trapped in the radiator as gravity can not force it out easily.

Serial number on the back of the box. Last letter is the suffix. http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_1.html#pa1

A few things. 1) 5th gear is lower on the older gearboxes, so road speed is not the best for the 200TDI. 2) If you have the 1.6 t. case, you won't be going faster..... 3) Note that earlier versions of the LT77 may not be strong enough for the 200TDI. I would check the suffix first. If you have a "G" box, it is OK. anything lower is iffy.

One to power, the other to ground. It matter not which.

SMX-S, http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/castrol/CastrolSMXS.pdf looks OK. A bit thick, so I would not suggest for cold climates, but OK for others.

Under the bonnet, where else??

Yep, it is on here somewhere. A later rear tank can be made to fit. You need to trim the rear cross member and add some support bracket. There are also companies that make direct bolt in ones.

There should be no resistor in the circuit. The light showing means you have a bad rectifier. Get it fixed as the AC voltage destroys everything else really quick.....

Picture? Serial number?

Need to see a closer view from the back to see if it uses a standard Garmin mount or something special.

As I stated, it is the only thing preventing the CV bell from hitting the swivel ball. Without the clip, the CV will hit and rub on the inside of the ball.

Can you find a picture? I'm very familiar with all available mounts, but have no access to a 2009 Defender....

Man, you are greedy. 32 is pretty good.

Nothing stops the CV going too far into and hitting the swivel housing. It can also let the CV fall out of its bearing.

There is a stop screw for the throttle linkage adjust this while ensuring there is slack in the cable.