Ex Member

That should work well, but it would be best to have and automatic switch for it. As least for me manual switching (or using the alternator sense wire) will lead to a dead battery at some point.

Really the engine speed is not a problem. They are well designed. You just cannot keep getting power once the pistons reach the combustion speed.

I'm running 1/2" of camping mat, EVAZOTE®, Closed cell cross-linked ethylene copolymer foam against the roof. It is water and air impermeable, so acts as a vapour barrier. It is glued on with a special adhesive for foam. It has one of the higher insulating values around. This is covered with 1/2" of a perforated vinyl backed open celled foam for more insulation and to make it look decent. Flat walls and floors in the back have 1" of Corning board insulation covered in 1/4" plywood. Toasty warm at -40 all with a stock heater.

We are talking about Mark 4 Golf/Bora engines here, right? They are overhead valve, and a very similar design to the 300TDI. Maximum engine speed in a diesel is based on flame speed. The VW engines run higher boost, which gives more air and fuel to burn in the same space. These modified cars run around 25 to 30 psi. With the right fueling, this allows power at higher speed. Keep in mind that the guys running these high boost and fueling need to upgrade a lot of the internals of the engine if they want them to last. Unfortunately taking a 300TDI to 30 psi blows the head gasket, so you are limited to the lower engine speed. If someone made better con rods and better head bolts, it might be possible. Or just buy a TD5.......

Just had a quick look around for lower cost, automatic switching relays. http://www.powerstream.com/battery-isolator.htm 150 Amp break current, spikes to 2200 Amp. Automatic sensed switching based on voltage. $75

Some expensive (but certainly nice) solutions there.... A normal battery isolator works fine. Just wire it in a little different to avoid the voltage drop problems.

Center diff lock stuck on?

Pah, Land Rover do not need to be expensive. For the cost of those wheels, I could easily have them custom made and not spend half that much. I also like the look of Mach 5s, but that price is crazy.

Good lord. Those must be the most expensive steel wheels in the world.

There are certain situations especially in some types of snow and sometime mud where TC is detrimental and you need wheelspin to get through.

I believe the Simex are quite soft, so this should make them OK. A run SSRs and they work quite well on ice and snow, surprisingly, I assume mostly due to the soft compound. Not quite as good as a winter tyre, but better than any all season.

Well.... It gets down to -40 C here any I've never frozen a jet and never heard of anyone freezing one. So....with the correct solution, I don't think there is any call for heated nozzles. If you are really keen, you can buy washer fluid heaters. This is mainly to get better cleaning and de-icing of the screen. I've never seen anyone use one... http://www.windshieldwiperheaters.com/

Take a heat gun or carefully with a propane torch and heat the injector pump a bit. Just so it is warm. See if it goes. It probably gelled. Then get some anti-gel into the fuel. And, yes, you should charge the battery or jump start as well.

Normally $0.50 per liter is what you would pay, sometime down to $1.50 a bottle. http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/3/AutoFluidsChemicals/WindshieldWasherFluid/PRDOVR~0294199P/Pacer%2BWindshield%2BWasher%2BFluid.jsp I'm scared to even think how much I buy every year.....

Sounds fine. The workshop manual says: "Pressure, engine warm at normal operating speeds ........ 1,76 - 3,87Kgf/cm2 (25 - 55 Ibf/in2)"

Yes, that is the best way to go. A stated, it is usually not need until 3" and above. When you get that high there is a long list of things that should be changed.

Are the splines compressing properly? Perhaps they are binding?

Looks like I could make money selling washer fluid in Europe. I've never heard of anyone having frozen washer nozzles here. When it gets really cold, you switch to the -45 formula. http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/3/AutoFluidsChemicals/WindshieldWasherFluid/PRD~0294173P/Motomaster%2BWinter%2BWindshield%2BWasher%2BFluid.jsp

That and adjust the hot/cold flap so that it sits tight when in the hot position.

The heaters earth through the speed switches. Power is supplied directly to the heater. It is a strange backwards arrangement....

Can't you guys get washer fluid that does not freeze in the UK? The normal stuff here is good to -40.

Personally, I think the eBay ones are the best choice. Low cost, accurate, with min/max memory. You want digital with min/max memory, so that you can record the effect of changes. The only lowish cost 52 mm digital I know of is the cyberdyne.

I have an indoor/outdoor temperature gauge with voltage that includes max/min memory and high low alarms. It cost maybe $20..... A little toggle switch to read the voltage on the other battery.

I would check with VDO, though. It does not look right for this tach. For other 52mm VDO gauges they make a 3 prong connector, but the tachometers are different.

VDO 240-053 ?? http://www.usa.vdo.com/generator/www/us/en/vdo/main/products_solutions/marine/marine_instruments/accessories/gauge_accessories/connector/connector_en.html