Ex Member

If you look at the real one linked above, they use a separate 24 V battery bank for the boost runs, which disconnects from the alternator during the runs. When the charger is turned off, the alternator switches back to charging the boost battery bank.... http://www.civicforums.com/forums/79-forced-induction-swaps/126961-thomas-knight-electric-supercharger-2.html The idea is is replaces NOX, but you never run out. It can never work as a continuous source of power, regardless of design as the power lost from the alternator would exceed the power gains from the blower.

There is zero power change and it does not affect the engine heat up time. It does give much better access to the engine and allows the fan to be turned off when wading. It is also cheaper than buying a new viscous unit WHEN it dies.

This is the only real one available: http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0406tur_knight_turbo_electric_supercharger/index.html Big money. Only good for short bursts.

Traditionally on diesels, a positive displacement supercharger was used to get low rpm boost and a turbo charger for high rpm boost as you ran past the efficiency points of each device. The VGT allows the turbo to work over a larger range and negates the need for the supercharger in most applications.

There are different types of superchargers. It is important to note which type you are discussing before making statements as they behave completely differently.

As stated, that is not rust. The pinion bearing preload can be quite tight.

Some non LR installs: http://www.ffcobra.com/forums/showthread.php?t=232881 http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=512629 Ohhhh AND a Series install: http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/f7/summit-heater-siii-22650/

I found this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-991105/?image=large They claim 8200 Watts and 440 m3/h..... with the same dimensions. Might have to try it.

Stock is blue/red on driver's side and yellow/white on passenger's side. Blue/green is a normal front spring. Why are you changing the springs? Why did you pay money for used stock springs? You could get a dozen for free any day of the week. 70% of the people on here have aftermarket springs with stock ones lying around getting old.

Sounds like you have three rears and a front....

Just some things to keep in mind that will need doing as well as spring, IMO. 1) Correct shocks and mounts to suit. 2) Longer brakelines. 3) Some way to correct the castor (bent arms, bushings or rotated swivels). 4) DC propshaft for the front.

What happened to the original wiring? It needs to be done in a very specific way.

Sounds like the charge light bulb is burnt out. Change it. If you do not see the charge light with the engine off, that is your problem.

Now, THAT is interesting. 3840 Watt should be much bigger than stock and it seems to fit.

Adding a third pivot into the arm will free THAT arm from all bending restraint. This will free up articulation. BUT, the other arm now will take most of the braking torque reaction. This seriously loads up that side and make a very unbalanced system under braking. It has also been shown to be unbalanced off road as well leading to strange behaviour. The lockable pinned design is better as it allows it to be put to stock when on the road. People still found it unbalanced off road.

I think engine out is easiest. We did one in 5 hours a little while back with taking our time.

Money is no object equals any engine that you want. Obviously the LT77 and most of the rest of the drivetrain would need to be changed to take on any real power increase.

It is usually negotiable. 20 days is what I get. The 10 to 15 is the government minimum requirement. I know in Germany you get half the year off, so it is quite a setback..... The LR club is quite active in Edmonton, so that is a plus.... Most of them hang out here: http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/index.php?board=3.0

They seem to like to clean them regardless.

If you needed to work in Fort Mac, you need to live in Fort Mac. It is a LONG way away. And, I would not recommend THAT to anyone. The oil patch is pretty dead ATM anyway.

I went to an RV (caravan?) shop and picked up a couple of two bulb light sets. They are crazy bright. One bulb is tons. Something like this, but a different brand. http://www.rvstuffusa.com/thinlitervmodel312bythinlite.html

This is the best deal around. http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Auber-Instruments_Automotive-Gauges_W0QQ_fsubZ855802014QQ_sidZ9109784QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em322

If you want the vehicle to stay here, it must be more than 15 years old. Beyond that, it is easy to bring one in. As a personal import, when moving, you are exempt from tax and duty. It is worth bringing your own as they are quite rare here. Parts....we can get anything cheap (as cheap as anyone in the UK) but shipping has to be added.... Large items are the only problem due to the shipping, but containers tend to come over once or twice a year. Any particular reason for Edmonton? Nothing against the place, but if you had a choice, it would not be number 1.

Check the boost diaphragm on top of the injection pump. If it is broken, no power.... Might as well turn up the fueling a bit at the same time.

Yes, keep in mind that on THESE engines, the thermostat also CLOSES flow to the bypass line when open, forcing flow through the radiator. Without a thermostat the water won't be forced through the rad.