Ex Member

If you have a lot of variability in loading, then they are the best option, IMO. The other companies that make them are Airlift in the US and Polyair in Aussyland.

He is not machining all his own. It is a company that builds portal bolt on boxes for a living. His is just the first one adapted to the Rover axle. Once it is done, it will be a regular production item. http://www.killeraxles.com/

If you have a balance line and don't mind the one tank overflowing into the other, then that works fine. I know others that do that.

How much higher do you want to go? 3" between axle and bumpstop is normal.

Well, it is certainly MUCH less work via this route than the only other real options which are MOG axles. MOG axles need to be completely rebuilt to fit on a Rover. Volvo portals were a simplish solution, but I understand finding them these days is almost impossible.

For a simple switch solution, Pollak make a low cost 70 Amp push pull switch. They work fine, are easy to find and low cost. http://pollak.thomasnet.com/viewitems/switches-push-pull-type-switches/extra-heavy-duty-push-pull-switches?&forward=1

I have heard that. Take a normal drill and try. If it does not drill, use the other method..... Mine drilled easily enough.

Drill, tap, fit spacer and bolt (in addition to the circlip)

Power comes from a fuse shared with the interior lights. Check the fuse first. The horn switch is common with the dim/dip switch and turn signals. Supply power is a purple wire.

Yep, no need to longer stops.

No. The engine produces 200 lb-ft * 3.6 * 3.32 = 2400 lb-ft. If you can replicate that with a socket, you would probably lift the truck. It is all good. They are on tight, but a normal 1/2" drive bar should work. Best to use a new nyloc hut as they sometimes work loose.

With poorly designed spring lifts.....

The battery is in the way.

It is the size of the tyres that determine if you need bump stops. It has nothing to do with a lift. Somewhere a little above 33" the rear tyres will hit under full compression at the top and longer bump stops should be fitted.

110s have a lot more rear overhang and that is where the tank fits. Won't work on a 90. Get one made is your best answer. I'm building one right now. It should hold 65 liters.

Factory is 150 feet of 5/16" (8 mm), but the rope packs better as it flattens out. Let's see if we can calculate.... Area increase is simply proportional to the square of the diameter. If 125 feet of 11 fits then 14^2 / 11^2 * 125 = 98 feet Why have you bought such heavy rope? I use 125 feet of 10 mm and that is as much as I want to see, so I suspect you will be more around 90 feet.

TD and 200TDI downpipes are interchangable. The official factory 200TDI kit used the complete existing TD exhaust including the downpipe. I'm using a TD downpipe on my 200TDI. They are better (IMO) because there is a flange at the bottom, allowing it to be removed without taking the cross member out.....

Taps are not tapered. Once again the female side of pipe fittings are all parallel. The male side is tapered or parallel. The only time you need to worry about a taper is when threaded the male part with a die. You should run the tap right through until it screws in freely.

It is NOT a tapered hole. The taper of pipe fittings are on the male side only.

I'm guessing the springs have gone in wrong. The upper spring pulls on the trailing shoes and should prevent this.

Added Wolf wheels. Still waiting for data from others!!! http://members.shaw.ca/red90/roverwheels.html

If the charging circuits are in that device, then you are stuck using it. At 6 Watts any cheap 120V inverter would work in the car. $10 or so around here. Not sure what you do on the wrong side of the pond. eBay maybe. Here: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/12v-DC-to-AC-adapter-Car-Power-Converter-INVERTER_W0QQitemZ380183527048QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5884b43e88

Personally I would suggest a digital gauge instead. It provides more information knowing the exact voltage.

You have two choices (being discussed above). 1) Switch the relay using the alternator charge light circuit. The relay will close (connecting the batteries) whenever the alternator is working (charge light is OUT). So no other equipment needed. 2) Use a split charge controller to switch the relay. These sense the voltage and open the relay once the battery has reached a certain charge level. For either system, you can add manual switches to either force the relay open or closed.

We are talking about ones with the Bosch VE pump here. They stopped using these engines in 2003. Let's not confuse these engine with other newer VW engines. These are quite different. The TD5 is common rail. This allows the combustion event to happen faster as the injection time is much shorter. At the high speeds the injection time also becomes important. The VW guys run much larger nozzles as well to help. Keep in mind that they are still only going to around 5000 rpm on the style of engine in question. I assume the limit is the injection time which is limited by the lowish pressure injection system. On the OP, I really have never heard of anyone changing the electronic pump for a manual one. It seems a dumb thing to do. Low cost custom tuning is easily available. The electronic control allows control over fueling, timing and boost. It is a lot more flexible than with a mechanical only pump.