Sounds like you have the wrong oil in the LT77........ If it is just leaking, replace the seals.... You don't need a new gearbox. The R380 is not really much better.
They are as strong as the AEU2522.
If it feels tight and smooth, it is OK. You'll need to check the other CV and then the diff, if you are sure it is inside the front axle.
Are you sure it is not the tyre rubbing?
That is a CV from a Range Rover, R606665. It is actually not a bad design. The CVs are strong and the outer shaft is the weak point, which is easy to change.
See if you can find the axle serial number.
Normally, you just tap it off. Sometimes the clip gets jammed in there are you need some serious brute force. Be careful if you are keeping the CV as they are brittle and will crack if hit sharply.
Three kinds AFAIK. It is very confusing as different source say different things......
AEU2522, 23/24
RTC6862, 33/24 From 20L48866 RHD, 21L33356 LHS (I thought it was 32 spline, but everyone says 33....)
TDJ000010, 32/24, 300TDI and on....
The bracket is a custom made one (I made it one day) for a York compressor. Yes, the 3 groove pulley to run it (ERR3093). Same pulley, all engines. Groove closest to engine is the water pump and alternator, middle is compressor and front is PS. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=9759
Here it is on the 2.5NA. Currently it is on a 200TDI. The mounting is exactly the same.
There are four locations for bolts on the timing case, which may or may not be drilled out.
I don't have a clean picture, but under this plate. The four bolts holding the plate are them. They are pretty obvious. IIRC, they are M8 tapped directly into the case. Two are on the timing cover and two on the timing case over the timing belt.
An MTF will be much better for the synchros than an ATF.
Rover speced ATF because there were no MTFs on the market at the time. Now that it is fairly easy to find a quality MTF, it makes sense to use that.
Actually MTF-94 has the visocisty of a 0W-30 motor oil. http://members.shaw.ca/jbarge/MTF.htm
But it have friction modifiers that help synchro engagement. This document by Redline explains the reasons, http://www.redlineoil.com/whitePaper/13.pdf why an MTF is better than motor oil
So, not that I've had this specific trouble, but... I work in heavy industry and we have really big bolts. The normal way to loosen a large and tight nut is with a "slug wrench". Not sure what they are called in the UK (Google says "Slogging Spanner".
Like this:
IME, they are the best solution and a lot better than a big snipe. You can imitate one somewhat with a heavy bar.
Being longer does not affect the spring rate. The spring rate is set by the number of coils and the wire diameter only. Tall, low rate springs are pretty rare as most companies make stiffer springs. There is a place in Australia that makes long and low rate springs.
Red/Whites are 170 lb/in according to my info, http://members.shaw.ca/jbarge/springinfo.html#OEM
You probably hooked it up wrong. The sender is around 280 Ohms empty and 15 fuel (the sender is 330 to 13 full range when out). Just measure resistance from the sender line to ground.