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Ex Member

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Everything posted by Ex Member

  1. They are called fiddle brakes. Common for comp vehicles.
  2. The normal fuel lines are 3/8" nylon tubing. Should be easy to find at any hose place.
  3. Sounds like you have the wrong oil in the LT77........ If it is just leaking, replace the seals.... You don't need a new gearbox. The R380 is not really much better.
  4. http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listi...oint&page=1 http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/RANGE_ROVE...e/CV_joint.html http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/productno...p?partno=606665
  5. They are as strong as the AEU2522. If it feels tight and smooth, it is OK. You'll need to check the other CV and then the diff, if you are sure it is inside the front axle. Are you sure it is not the tyre rubbing?
  6. That is a CV from a Range Rover, R606665. It is actually not a bad design. The CVs are strong and the outer shaft is the weak point, which is easy to change. See if you can find the axle serial number.
  7. Normally, you just tap it off. Sometimes the clip gets jammed in there are you need some serious brute force. Be careful if you are keeping the CV as they are brittle and will crack if hit sharply.
  8. Three kinds AFAIK. It is very confusing as different source say different things...... AEU2522, 23/24 RTC6862, 33/24 From 20L48866 RHD, 21L33356 LHS (I thought it was 32 spline, but everyone says 33....) TDJ000010, 32/24, 300TDI and on....
  9. No.... In 1992 or so, they changed to 10/32/24.... The worst front axle.
  10. The bracket is a custom made one (I made it one day) for a York compressor. Yes, the 3 groove pulley to run it (ERR3093). Same pulley, all engines. Groove closest to engine is the water pump and alternator, middle is compressor and front is PS. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=9759 Here it is on the 2.5NA. Currently it is on a 200TDI. The mounting is exactly the same.
  11. It should be an AEU2522 if the axle is original. Has a look at the axle serial number. That will tell us.
  12. There are four locations for bolts on the timing case, which may or may not be drilled out. I don't have a clean picture, but under this plate. The four bolts holding the plate are them. They are pretty obvious. IIRC, they are M8 tapped directly into the case. Two are on the timing cover and two on the timing case over the timing belt.
  13. ICV100000 is the LR part #. Genuine ones are not expensive.
  14. An MTF will be much better for the synchros than an ATF. Rover speced ATF because there were no MTFs on the market at the time. Now that it is fairly easy to find a quality MTF, it makes sense to use that.
  15. White smoke is normally retarded timing on a diesel. Check the timing. As stated, overfueling with proper timing will be black smoke.
  16. Actually MTF-94 has the visocisty of a 0W-30 motor oil. http://members.shaw.ca/jbarge/MTF.htm But it have friction modifiers that help synchro engagement. This document by Redline explains the reasons, http://www.redlineoil.com/whitePaper/13.pdf why an MTF is better than motor oil
  17. What do you do for the bellhousing? Can you use the LT77 one?
  18. If you filled it right to the top cold, it would have spilled when it warmed up as the diesel has to go somewhere.
  19. So, not that I've had this specific trouble, but... I work in heavy industry and we have really big bolts. The normal way to loosen a large and tight nut is with a "slug wrench". Not sure what they are called in the UK (Google says "Slogging Spanner". Like this: IME, they are the best solution and a lot better than a big snipe. You can imitate one somewhat with a heavy bar.
  20. So are you planning on using a Rover gearbox then? Say goodbye to the gearbox.....
  21. Being longer does not affect the spring rate. The spring rate is set by the number of coils and the wire diameter only. Tall, low rate springs are pretty rare as most companies make stiffer springs. There is a place in Australia that makes long and low rate springs. Red/Whites are 170 lb/in according to my info, http://members.shaw.ca/jbarge/springinfo.html#OEM
  22. You probably hooked it up wrong. The sender is around 280 Ohms empty and 15 fuel (the sender is 330 to 13 full range when out). Just measure resistance from the sender line to ground.
  23. It is possible to modify certain 100 Amp 300TDI (AMR4248) alternators to fit the 200TDI Defender.
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