cieranc

I did mine a while ago, the only concern was the clearance between the diff pan and the panhard rod. shouldn't be a problem for you, as your new pan is the right shape, so the bulge for the crown-wheel is right where the bend in the rod is. I used the arse off a gas cylinder, so there was no crown wheel bulge: http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/index.php?topic=376158.0

Welcome in! Do you mean it won't turn over on the key? Have you tried winding the engine on the crank bolt, to see if it's the engine that's locked, or the starter motor in-op?

With disc brakes and coil springs???

Ideally, a dab with a gas welding torch will make easy work of them.

For newly blasted/bare steel, a good strong acid etch is the only thing I would use as a base coat.

Mike, yes the basic Tracker is well worth the money. I've got to say I have no affiliation with Tracker at all, I'm just convinced that, pound-for-pound, they are the most effective way of recovering stolen vehicles. Si, top result, well done! We got two new rollers from a container at Teesport last week, destined for Greece. With them was some small plant, all new, total value nearly £70k. All pinched.

Ashtree seem to do the job properly. They do repair them, though I understand to a high standard. http://www.ashtreelandrover.com/ How much does a new LR bulkhead cost, out of curiosity? My 110 has had a new rear cross member fitted before I got it, and bulkhead repair corners and footwells done. But the rust is starting to creep through again. I'm not a fan of patching things/constantly chasing the rust around. As it is it's solid and has a good few years left in it, but is niggling me. So I have the same quandry as you: spend a couple of grand on a re-chassis and bulkhead, or sell it as is and put that money, and chassis/bulkhead money towards something else?

Maybe, but what about the arse on of having a collapsed filter or pipework damaged through it? The novelty will sharp wear off!

1" thick steel plate - £30 10x Thunderbolts - £100 3' of 16mm chain - £50 Decent Disclok - £100 Look on your face when you realise they gassed the chain off in 30 seconds - Priceless. Tracker Horizon gets my money. £450 to fit and £350 for as long as you own the vehicle, or annual subscription. We've seen so much stuff recovered that has had trackers on, it's got to be worth it. As for the SMS/GPS sim card trackers: http://www.thejammerstore.com/handheld-gps-jammer-gj02-p-152.html Renders them useless before the car is even moved.

You could remove the ECU and lock the doors manually. But that won't stop someone winching it onto a tilt+slide and driving off with it. Nor someone with a knuckleboom and a damage free kit lifting it out of your garden!

Any tracker that is guaranteed to work inside a container, operating on radio frequency as well as GPS and SMS. Of those available, there's maybe only three or four that fit the bill. All ports now have fixed scanners at entry and exit points, if a container goes through with an active tracker inside, it'll get stopped. Those that use a sim card rely on having a phone signal to operate. Would these work inside a container, or an underground car park, or in a hanger? Not likely. Most of these type require an external aerial too (or fixed inside a window), something a toerag would spot and just cut off.

If you blocked the return, you'd probably just blow a pipe off.

I'm a vehicle recovery operator for Durham, North Yorkshire and Cleveland Police forces. We recover a huge amount of stolen vehicles. Cars, bikes, wagons, boats and caravans, diggers and trailers. At least two a day. Anything from a kids mini-moto to an ExTec crusher. The majority are old Corsa's and the like that have been joy-rided in, but occasionally we get top line motors. Ferrari's, Astons, Lambo's etc. Some have been ringed/cloned to an exceptionally high standard (in particular an Audi Q7, that had work done the dealers say wasn't possible to carry out). We also carry out a lot of effecting entry procedures for the police, customs or for customers when keys are lost or locked in their cars. We get trained by the manufacturers on how to do this. There are very very few vehicles available that we cannot open up completely damage free, nearly all have a 'back door', a design fault which can be exploited to bypass factory security (Disco 3 and 4 are easier than Disco 1 ). I could drive away a new (and dead-locked) Merc S600 in under ten minutes, completely damage free, without the keys. One thing we've learned through this work: Stealing a vehicle is not difficult. We have recovered cars from multi-storey and underground car parks, locked cars out of containers and rail carriages,, farm buildings and stable blocks, places you can't get a truck anywhere near. We've removed a locked 110 from a 7 foot walled corner, boxed in 3 cars deep without moving the other cars. But the only sure-fire way of getting that vehicle back, is to fit a good quality TRACKER. (Not one of them cheap sms/sim card text ones).

Been across every inch of every pipe, cannot see so much as a damp spot anywhere. I've checked the flexi-hoses with someone else stood hard on the pedal, no signs of balooning. After speaking with mmgemini (Mike), I'm tempted to replace this valve.

Good luck with that. You're more likely to find a golden turd I pratted about getting my intercooler to fit exactly as I wanted it, and never gave a second thought as to the availability of the grill panel. I just assumed that, like any other LR bit, there'd be plenty of second hand ones kicking about. It took 3 months to track one down, and even then it was damaged and I had to repair it

Well, had the drums off the back again today, no signs of any leaks whatsoever. Inspected the brake pipes the full length and inspected the calipers. No signs of leaks at all. I know they're very simple in operation, but do these bias valves ever fail? Any ideas?

Gentle heat to the drop arm, or you'll bake the seals in the steering box.

Although I bow down to your LR experience, and have benefitted many times from your threads in the tech archive, I firmly believe that a TDi should fire up on compression alone, without glowplugs.

Correct as always , I have Disco rings on the front of my 110. Can't say I noticed much difference mind. Rear springs are 1" larger diameter, so Disco one's won't fit.

Steel foot off a high-lift against a steel baseplate will slide like hell, some thick marine ply would be better.

So I guess it's not as easy as pulling the rubber trim off the outside bottom edge of the window frame and looking down the gap? My 110 has the same problem - passenger rear door has the push button stuck in on the handle, won't unlock/open from the inside. Been like that a while, I just can't be humped putting it right just now, because I know it'll be an arse of a job:(

Seem to remember in several re-chassis write ups, that aligning the doors should be done before the bulkhead bottom bolts are tightened up, so you can pull the bulkhead into place to suit the doors and shim it up correctly?

Well, the boxes were the budget blue rather than the premium green, I must admit. I never removed the rubbers, but all were bone dry in appearance from the outside. I'll knock the drums back off again and have another look, cheers.

So, with normal driving my 110 (1987, drums on rear) goes well, and stops well. But if I have to brake hard, or sustain pressure on the pedal, the brake warning light comes on. Fluid level is correct and clean, new cylinders on the rears, no leaks, no signs of ballooning pipes, front pistons free and dry. It always brakes smoothly and evenly even with a heavy trailer, the pedal never gets near the floor, but nor does it 'snatch' I dropped it on the rollers and there was no imbalance between left and right hand sides on the front or the rears, and all brakes had sufficient effort. When I think back, this problem may have started when I changed the NSR cylinder. The brakes are not spongy so I suspect there is no air in the system. Is there a correct/different way to bleed the brakes through the bias valve, as I suspect this is jamming over one way???

If you price a container, ask for a price both ways, I have sourced cars in Aus (Mk 1+2 Escorts) I am keen to get over here. Maybe a return trip would work out cheaper each leg than a one way load ???