cieranc

Or, grind the head off, knock the bolt into the chassis, and then give it a damn good soaking in waxoyl through the hole. It won't rattle when it's stuck down.

And doesn't use the term 'Simply Remove'. A term not comprehendable to Land Rover owners. Unless it something the Landy has done itself. As in 'the exhaust/prop/hub simply removed itself as I drove home'.

Well, up until recently the most I'd ever paid for a phone was £5. Last year my phone at the time got a soaking and packed up. No great loss for the phone, but I lost a lot of photo's. So I splashed out (so to speak) on a Samsung B2700. It was advertised as being waterproof to IP57, and tough. I've had it a year, it's been run over twice, knocked off the edge of a 20 foot roof, been dunked twice and had a 30t rated snatch block dropped on it. First time it got dunked, I forgot it was in my pocket as I was fastening chains around a wagon in the middle of a river, chest deep. The phone worked fine. Then later in the week, as I was telling the lads how good it was, my pal picked it off the table and dropped it in my fresh pint. Still worked. It's also got a micro SD card, so even if the phone was to pack up, you shouldn't lose your pics/video's. Bought it new and unlocked off ebay for about £130. Compared to the price of some of the other rugged phones, I recommend it.

I recently had to remove the dash base tray, to access the wring loom. As I had to do all the above to get it out, I cut it in half on refitting. It sits in place correctly, has no gap for bits to drop down, but now I can remove one half to access the wiring harness without stripping the dash out again.

Very easy conversion, about an hours work. Buy 2off 8 way fuse holders from VWP (FBB8U), and a bag of female crimp spades. It's a case of cutting off each wire, one at a time, crimping an end on and refitting to the new holders. You can get an selection box of blade fuses off ebay for a couple of quid. Unfasten the original glass fuse holder from the metal plate, then remove the metal plate from the vehicle. You'll need to do a small amount of filing (not much) to get the new fuse holders to fit. Then, fit the new fuse holders to the metal panel, hold it close to the original fuse holder and just do as above, snip one wire at a time reconnecting to the new holder. Once they're all swapped, chuck the old holder. After you've checked that everything electrical works, and scratched your head for 10 mins because NOTHING works, refit the panel to the bulkhead (to earth it out). Then everything works A nice easy Sunday morning job.

Ahh yes, the 200 Di, apparently it's a good conversion for a series. Glencoyne Engineering, check them out. EDIT: http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/200di.htm

I'll have a look, my machines's INT 30 but there's some odd stuff I've never used came with it.

Hot hot hot all the way. So much easier. Cold, you'll need an anvil and the more you hit it, the less it flattens.

I havn't touched the pump, there is a difference just with the intercooler. I have since wound the boost up to 1 bar though.

Another vote here for blasting. It's the only effective way of getting the metal totally clean. You can actually see freshly blasted metal rusting in front of your eyes, so as said above it's critical to get it primed ASAP. However, every blaster we've dealt with only use a cheap celly primer. We insist on using a good acid etch primer so any blasting we have done, they ring us about half hour before it's finished, we collect and take the steelwork straight back to base and we prime it ourselves. That way we know it's right. The other reason is that we're extremely fussy. If it's already been primed, we can't tell if it's been a good job or not. As we collect it 'fresh', if there's any nooks or crannies they've missed, we wait while they do it again

Cheers peoples! It seems to be. Arjan ran his for 6 years or more without them, and there was no cracking/bending/flexing etc.. Some people have checker plated bonnets which they stand on, or bonnet mounted spares, in which case I would think it would cause problems them not being fitted. But for my purpose, it seems to be fine. Bear in mind, the new intercooler itself is held in place by being 'wedged' between the angle iron bottom and the slam panel, so the panel can't really bend down.

Finally completed my budget intercooler installation. This project has had some interest, so here's the write up as promised. Design brief: Intercooler as large as possible, half the price of an AlliSport, not too bling/keep it simple and as standard as possible. So, I trawled Ebay and decided for ease it would have to be a twin-pass IC, to keep the plumbing simple. I saw this one advertised at £135 with £12 p+p or offers. I offered £100 delivered, he came back at £120 delivered. I bought. Two problems with this IC (which I'd considered before buying). The overall length was just too long to fit between the inner wings of my 110, and the pipework was 3" diameter, where my 200TDi pipework was 2". So I had a plan. I cut the end pipes off, made some blanks, and drilled two 2" holes in the side of the end tank. I knocked up some rough patterns for the new pipework. Then it's over to my pal Ben, who fabbed up some new pipes to my pattern, welded them in the new holes and welded on the blanks for the end plates. These new pipes meet up with the original intercooler hoses, albeit the other way round. Top hose fitted at the bottom, and bottom hose fitted to the top. The reasoning behind this is that at any point, this new intercooler can be removed, and the original just slotted back in onto all the original mounting points and hoses. Fitting it up. After taking advice from Arjan over on LRaddict, I removed the two diaganol stays that run in front of the radiator and support the slam panel. This left the two brackets where they attached at the chassis. I cut a length of angle iron and drilled it to bolt straight onto the stay brackets, using the original bolts. Now I have a solid flat edge to mount the IC on. I drilled two holes in the angle iron for the rubber mounting bobbins. I drilled two holes in the slam panel for the rubber bobbins at the top. The IC now just pushes in the top holes, drops down into the bottom holes and then I screw two nuts up the threaded part of the top bobbins to lock it in place. Again, resorting to OE specification is a five minute job, no major modification work done. Next problem. The original front grill panel is just too shallow to cover the IC. I sourced an air-con panel from CWS4x4, £40 delivered. It had some damage to one corner, so needed a bit of fibreglass work to strengthen it. I removed the 'Defender' sticker. Mine's not a Defender! Fibreglass on the inside corners, a bit of catty on the outside to tidy it up, a good sand down and it's ready for paint. First a good high build primer, then another rub down, then the top coat. The grill I just used a scoth pad and aerosol black to tidy it up. To finish it off, I got a new 'Land Rover 110' sticker, and put the LR badge in the middle. Fairly happy with it, and there's a noticeable difference in low down pulling power. Total cost: IC £120, Grill panel £40, welding/fabbing £20 (mates rates), rubber nuts for grill £4, sticker £6. I did buy a stainless grill for £25 off ebay, but I'm not keen on it, a bit too bling. So less than £200, It utilises original bolts, mounting brackets, hoses ect and I can swap back to original spec in about 10 mins.

Nope, I've just had my renewal from NFU, down 6% on last year due to loyalty bonus.

Gotcha. It's only an MOT fail if theres different sizes on the same axle, you can put different sizes on different axles. Time for more shopping around. There doesn't seem to be a great range of 7.50 tube type tyres left on the market.

The job of the suppressor is to minimise interference to your radio signal. If you radio works well, then don't worry about it. If you get interference on the radio, then do worry about it

In a nutshell, will the centre diff cope with this setup? Or is the difference in circumfrence too great?

Doesn't happen with NFU, they're extremely fair.

Have you recently stood on the roof? We had this happen three times with a 52 reg (it was brand new at the time) Sprinter flatbed. Except it was the windscreen. We eventually sussed it out, the driver occasionally stood on the rear of the roof whilst sheeting loads up. The roof would pop in, then pop back out whilst driving, blowing the windscreen out.

Had a similar problem back in 1999 with my fiesta rally car. Decided to cancel my road policy with Adrian Flux, and take out 'laid up' cover with Competition Car Insurance (top people to deal with) whilst I rebuilt it. Can't remember exact figures now, but I remember being absolutely fuming at the time with Adrian Flux. I even swore at them on the phone, and that's not like me at all. Needless to say, I've never used them since.

Yep.

I spoke to Brian at Cromwell at Stockton, they can't get fluted blades in H13 size. They did stock plain blades but their supplier has gone to the wall and they can't guarantee when/if they'll get them in again. Even then at £78 a set, it's a lot of money (they sell a new reamer at £122), there's people selling new reamers at £40 elsewhere.

Tried all the above (Matrix tooling are at Nottingham), no good. So the search goes on!

It's not something I thought of with my 2.5 petrol 110! I'd replaced the leads, points, dizzy, pump, filters, stripped and rebuilt the carb 3 times and eventually replaced the carb in search of this problem. All for the sake of a £5 air intake pipe! When I finally found the problem, I didn't know wether to feel happy or angry!

Yes, remove the fabric air box - carb pipe. These pipes are prone to coming apart on the inside, causing the loose bit to restrict the airflow. Try running it without this pipe for a short test drive, see if the situation improves.

Very. It's a 6 blade reamer, for which I only ever had 3 blades. I've never used it until last week, and then used it a lot. It was hard-going with just three blades, but did the job. Ciderman, thanks for the links, do you know if these people sell them?