cieranc

Hi, does anyone know where I can find some fluted reamer blades for an adjustable reamer? Size is H13, 30.16 - 34.13mm, or 13/16 - 111/32 " I've trawled the net and can't find anyone advertising them anywhere. There's people selling new reamers, but that's kind of against the idea of replaceable blades!

If I remember rightly you can't get your finger to it, it's a case of manipulating the nut into place and trying to catch the threads by turning the bolt. And praying the bolt doesn't knock the off/out of whatever it's precariously positioned with! As said above, if you drop it, you won't get it back out again.

Bah, baaaaahhhhhhh, baaggh. Did this job a while ago, and remember the verrry same nut being a right fiddly bugger to get in place. What's bugging me is that I can't exactly remember how I did it! But it was fiddly, I think I stuck the nut (used one of them with a washer part of it for ease) into the spanner ring with some assembly fluid (sticky gunk specifically for holding fiddly wee blighters in place, like treacle) I may or may not have procured from the RAF. Then wedged the nut with a screwdriver and rattled the bolt up with a windy gun.

I'd tend to disagree. We do a lot of fuel drains at work (petrol into a diesel car). Our pump works much harder when it's pulling through an electric pump that isn't running. On some vehicles it won't pull through the pump at all. So I would think that the wee pump on a night heater would struggle. Even if it does work, I suspect it'll be working that hard it'll get a bad back and retire early. Although, if you've got 12v to the night heater pump, could you not take that feed and splice it into the vehicle fuel pump relay, thus running both pumps at once? And by putting a diode inline, with the engine running but the heater off, the vehicles feed to the vehicle pump can't back track to run the night heater pump? So the night heater can make the vehicle pump run, the vehicle can make the vehicle pump run, but the vehicle can't make the night heater pump run?? My head hurts.

This project's nearly finished (it's all up and running, just got the cosmetics to finish) I'll do a full write up soon and post it up here.

Custom, straight fit types are, you're paying for the convenience of it being a straight fit in. Generic, one-size-fits-none types are actually quite cheap, but you've more work to do to fit them. But they have pipework on opposite ends, you'd have to run one pipe from the intercooler offside outlet to the nearside inlet manifold. More pipework means more pressure drop, more room for the charge air to warm up again and a general drop in intercooler performance. Not really, the channels in a radiator are much narrower than those of an intercooler. It would mean a considerable restriction to airflow. My whole intercooler install has so far added up to just under £200. Generic ebay twin-pass intercooler, aircon front panel, original intercooler hoses, everything else under the bonnet original. Left to do is paint front grill panel and fit front grill.

I'm just amazed that something from Machine Mart has lasted over a year! One of our lads has just bought a slide hammer kit from there, used it this morning to pull a dent out. 3 hits and the screw on end flew straight off, stripping the threads. Took it back, they said it must be misuse, said he had been slide hammering too hard. Beggers belief.

The drillings allow more 'edged' surface area for heat to dissipate through, you'll never need these on a road motor, the pads will set on fire long before the disc gets hot enough to need that type of cooling. The grooves are more useful, they allow for the glaze to be 'scraped' from the pads, reducing pad glazing and ultimately brake fade. Again, you'll have to work your brakes bloody hard for this to be a useful feature. Standard discs and pads are good enough for the job. My 110 weighs 2 ton and often pulls a 3.4 ton trailer around. Never had the brakes (Paddock cheapies) hot yet. And thats with drums on the back

Joe, Mini chargers, you mean BMW Mini ones? Thems an Eaton M62 I believe, too small for a TDi. We had an Eaton M90 on the Sierra (2.9 24v Granada Cossy lump), just the right size, an M112 would have been too big.

Hi BishBosh, I did the same as you and was suprised at how thin the standard pan actually was. I needed a quick fix, so just chopped t'arse end of a gas cylinder. Nice and strong, cheap (free), and a pretty good fit. Bit of a write up here: http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/index.php?topic=376158.0 Some have suggested you don't need to take the diff out to weld the new one on, but I'd be wary. It'll only take one small blob of spatter in your diff to cause problems. For what it takes it's a much safer job taking it out.

Where you at? That looks like A167/Aycliffe village behind you

A ratchet ring may help once they're cracked off, but they'll be threadlocked in. Be very careful using ratchet spanners, unless they're the type that you can flick the lever to change direction. I've seen someone ratchet a bolt out, up against a stop then couldn't get the spanner off the bolt, and couldn't wind the bolt back in! To crack them off you need a long handled 14mm bi-hex head spanner, they'll take some swinging on. Get a good quality spanner, a cheap one will round off and create a whole world of problems! Also, pick away at the rust around the bottom of the head, to make the spanner a good fit. I bought one specifically for doing this job, 14mm ring one end 17mm ring the other, with a long handle. Can't find it in the catalogue but this one is similar: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=hand&item_ID=4607&group_ID=523&store=&dir=catalog

Then you've got 28 days worth of irritating a copper ahead of you. £60 is not a bit steep. Take it to court, then see how steep it is. Where were you expecting it to get you? You knew the plate was illegal, so why take the hump when you get a ticket for it? Being helpful to the police does not give you immunity from the law. Unless you're a registered grass. Yes, because that's the copper's own personal bonus of course Losing respect for the why? Because they didn't let you off? Maybe you thought a simple warning would have been adequate, but that's not your decision to make. I don't get it. You knew before you went out the plate was illegal, you admitted to him it was then you take the hump when you get done for it, and lose respect for the copper doing his job. Why not just take it on the chin? Part 2, section 6, paragraphs 2 and 3 spell the law out quite clearly. http://www.opsi.gov....20010561_en.pdf

Right, he'll have a reefer running back part loaded on thursday, but reckons it'll cause problems putting a car in there. He's got a tautliner out tomorrow, should be runing back your way monday BUT.... if he gets a back load this would take priority. Bit of a gamble. Thinking about it, 400 euro isn't a bad price to get back here. Price up AA European cover, it'll be £300 easy I reckon, plus you'll have to either stay there a few days or come home and go back again. Or coming back for a trailer, you getting home, ferry crossings with a trailer and diesel, it'll sharp add up to 400 euro. Might be the best bet. I've been stuck near Montpellier for four days before, got a bit bored after the first day!

The engine will spin fine on the starter now, but chances are there's no compression, rings will be damaged. Just ringing my pal now, he runs wagons on the continent, see if he's got anything running back empty. Would you be able to get near some loading ramps, to put it inside a tautliner/ curtainsider?

There are plenty of solid vehicles about that don't need the chassis or bulkhead replacing. I would generally steer clear of buying a wreck to restore, unless you're planning on a full nut-and-bolt rebuild, and that would cost more thn a brand new vehicle. Look for something with a solid chassis and bulkhead and a service history. Ex-utility vehicles are usually a good buy, although they can sometimes look rough around the edges, they've usually been treat to a 'no expense spared' maintenance program throughout their working lives. Steer clear of ex post office LR's, they get abused. BT Fleet motors are well looked after and well maintained.

AAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRGGGGGGGHHHHHH! We've got a lad in a wrecker on his way back from Grenoble. Just rang him, he's already on the ferry How bad is the head gasket, just leaking a bit or completely gone? Kalimex's K-Seal is one of the few potions available that actually works well. We carry it on the service van, as do the AA, RAC ect. It will seal head gasket leaks.

Just to add, I've spoken to David Ashcroft for technical advice in the past, their customer service is second to none. I firmly believe that if there is a problem with the 'box (which I think is unlikely) they will sort it without question.

Agree with that, carefully and slowly drive a couple of feet. We do this with trailers that have siezed on wheels. On wagons with stuck props we usually just beat them with a heavy hammer to release. A ratchet strap can also help to give it some pull.

I got a VDO gague and sender from Merlins. Worth the money, you can see the temperature rise, see the 'stat open at 92 degrees and the temperature come back down to 88 degrees. The OE gague reads Cold, Hot, and Too hot. The parameters of each are entirely up to the driver Generally, you know when it's cold, as it hasn't been run. You know when it's hot, as it has been run. You know when it's too hot when it's siezed up. You don't need the OE gague to tell you these things.

I'll echo Gruntus' advice, for any engine mods the best place to start is an EGT gauge. The only real effective way to see whats going on in them pots

We buy A LOT of these, and the best price by far is from Arinsdale. This set (ratchet, strap and soft choker) is £6.50. Most places charge more than that for the ratchet alone. And they're made here in the UK. Don't buy Machine Mart straps, they're the only ones we've ever known fail. http://www.arinsdale.com/ProductGuide/tabid/55/catId/1/subCatId/20/subCatId2/53/subCategory2/Straps%20for%20Single%20Vehicle%20Transport%20%20Recovery/default.aspx

Happen I have one out the back from a Brenderupp tilt bed, I'll dig it out and send you some photo's if you're interested?

An intercooler getting some surgery, courtesy of my pal:

Take the ram to any decent hydraulics place, they can reseal it much cheaper than a new ram will cost.