cieranc

That's what happened to mine, collapsed air hose meant it wouldn't rev. Had to drive it home in low box.

What worries me is the huge difference in the number of Landies stolen, and the number recovered. Can't blame chavs for that. They must be going out of the country. Chavs get bored easily, so when the novelty wears off, or they run out of fuel, they'll just dump it. It'll then get recovered. But you simply can't dump hundreds of Landys and leave no trace of them. They're being stolen professionally to serve overseas orders in my opinion.

That is very helpful, thanks, a very comprehensive thread. Hopefully I will be able to see the problem with just the front half casing off. Is this all I need to do to achieve this: Or is it necessary to remove the rear half casing first?

Hmmm, can't do too much harm having a look inside I suppose. May need to take professional advice first though!

I'll start by stating this problem is totally self inflicted, and the box was fine up until this point. I removed my engine to replace the leaking rear crank seal. Which wasn't the problem, the gearbox seal was. So I removed the nose plate off the gearbox to replace the seal. At this point, no problem. Then a very helpful person noted I was working on a vehicle without the handbrake on, jumped in and pulled the brake on for me. Very thoughtful. He also pushed it into gear to be sure. Problem. This has shoved the input shaft out of the box by a couple of inches, and no matter which way I wiggle the shaft, I can't get it to sit back in place correctly, the outer bearing race doesn't fit back into the casing as snugly as it came out. I've now removed the box. I'm confident nothing has been damaged, just dislodged. I can get the nose plate back on the box and it to sit flat, but it won't select gears and the selector is very tight, and extremely notchy. Does this sound like an easy fix, or is it off to Ashcrofts with it, along with this month's rent? Although I've rebuilt boxes before, I've no experience of stripping these boxes, so I'm not over the moon with the idea of opening it up.

Just ask Scania. Their auto's do exactly this, use the clutch for pulling away, then rev and go. If you come to a stop without pushing the clutch down, you'll stall.

Dunno if it's relevent, but Ford have issued a TSB on replacing the DMF's in Puma engined Transits with solid flywheels: Subject/Concern: Premature clutch failures; Single mass flywheel and heavy duty clutch kit for service Model: Transit 2000.5 (01/2000–05/2006) - vehicles with 55 kW/75 PS; 66 kW/90 PS; 85 kW/115 PS; 88 kW/120PS; 92 kW/125 PS Build Date: 15.01.2000-18.04.2006 Build Code: 1J-6T Engine: 2.4L Duratorq-DI/TDDi (Puma) Diesel Transmission/Transaxle: MT-75 Markets: All Section: Summary Should a customer express concern about clutch burn out, the probable cause is excessive clutch slip for long periods when pulling away, changing gear or low speed manoeuvring. This is likely to be most apparent to customers who operate for long periods with a fully laden vehicle and/or trailer (max GTM), i.e. a heavy duty user. A Single Mass Flywheel (SMF) should be recommended to these customers. A SMF and heavy duty clutch will address the clutch burn out condition for heavy clutch users by providing a larger heat sink to transmit the heat away from the clutch lining. • NOTE: The customer should be made aware that the decision to switch to an SMF solution results in a degraded NVH performance. He/she may experience noticeably higher level of interior noise and vibration in cruise and low speed driving up to 2000 rpm. Parts Required Description Finis Code Quantity Vehicles built before 16.04.2002 (i.e. with Valeo clutch release systems): Single mass flywheel 4 447 891 1 Bolt, flywheel 1 128 791 8 Clutch kit 1 341 329 1 Clutch release bearing 4 056 754 1 Crankshaft pulley 1 377 588 1 Accessory drive belt (non-AC) (If Required) 1 129 181 1 Accessory drive belt (with AC) (If Required) 1 129 182 1 Vehicles built after LuK release systems, post 16.04.2002: Single mass flywheel 4 447 891 1 Bolt, flywheel 1 128 791 8 Clutch kit 1 530 440 1 Clutch release bearing 4 412 070 1 Crankshaft pulley 1 377 588 1 Accessory drive belt (non-AC) (If Required) 1 129 181 1 Accessory drive belt (with AC) (If Required) 1 129 182 1 It goes on to give full fitting instructions.

Apparently they have a 1600kg payload each. The forces use them because they don't cause as much shrapnel damage when they run over a mine as steel wheels do. In being, they just disintergrate rather than send shards of severed steel in every direction.

They're made on a pin board rather than from a diagram (well that's how we made aircraft looms in the RAF). AutoSparks may be able to offer advice on making a new loom: http://www.autosparks.co.uk/index.php?cPath=75

What a top place this forum is! Rather than having to swap hoses to make different appliances run, could you not just fit a diverter valve and have it permanently piped up? Two of our trucks are plumbed up like this, lever over one way to power the bed, the other way to power the crane circuits.

3/8ths drive worth the money, yes. 1/2" drive not so. Although you could easily make a good tool with a cheap socket and extension, and the bench grinder.

I found mine were siezed in and the heads badly corroded. I had to use a drift to bray a tight fitting spanner on to them to crack them off. Then once turning, bray the spanner back off again. Then fit new bolts. Actually, I might be thinking of the swivel bolts

Oh I see. An exhaust brake is the only viable option in my opinion. Just a butterfly valve in the exhaust pipe, down-stream of the turbo. Shutting the valve chokes the engine, so you get more engine braking. Isuzu NQR's have a setup which would easily convert to use on a landy, and they're not air operated either. Jakobs brakes or retarders would be massive overkill on a LR.

Never fitted one, there'd be a lot of work in retro-fitting one to an engine it's not designed for. Have worked on them on big cam cummins lumps. Bloody awkward buggers to set the exhaust valve solenoids up. And if they fail, you'll be left with zero compression, as the valves jam open and the engine won't run. Very effective though. Oh, and they're noisy as hell. The problem we had was, oil getting into the solenoid wiring and the solenoids failing - in a TD5 injector loom styleee. Exhaust brakes are much more simple, much quieter but not as efficient. Still work good though. Mechanical retarders, can't see any use for one on a Landy, a couple of hundred kilos wrapped round the propshaft

Beat me to it again Was just gonna say LR offered the BMW lump for export markets

I never removed the shocks at both ends, just the bottoms. Then tywrapped the springs to the top seats, and the calipers to the springs. If the axle is complete, then just unbolt and rebolt:0 If it's just the axle casing you want to swap, unbolt the swivels off the axle ends like so: Then everything comes off in one lump. Springs and shocks in place.

I would use nylock nuts rather than threadlock. When the time comes to undo the nuts, threadlocked nuts will be a bugger to undo, especially when the flats on the top of the shock have corroded away. Nylocks will undo nicely. But they won't shake loose.

The Merc OM422 is quite compact for a diesel V8, maybe the one in use? If anyone's interested, I know where there's a nice engine available. Ford BOA engine, ProSport F3000 girdled bottom end, 3.2ltr 24v V6, running Turbo Technics twin turbo kit, Eaton M90 charger and nitrous kit. It was built and run in a drag car. It was a 4.0ltr, but it's now been sleeved down for better reliability. The guy's only selling as he went V8, but he's now got a Wessex helicopter engine for his car ! I'm sure Steve Parker will have an adapter plate for an LT77 :)

New weights are zinc, much much lighter than lead, meaning you need hundreds of them to do what a few lead weights could do. When I balanced my Insa Dakar's, I raided the yard for old lead weights rather than use zinc (using the weights off the original tyres as well). I found that getting the wheel straight on the balancer was a nightmare. First spin tells me I need 300gms in one spot. Shuffle the wheel round on the machine and it's down to 200, then 100. Eventually got them balanced spot on, but as I say getting the wheel straight in the first place is a chore. I think this is the reason we see so many Landies have a hundred weights on each wheel - because the tyrefitters just go off the first reading when the wheel isn't quite straight.

You can only use a chassis with no ID if it is a brand new chassis. You then swap your original chassis number onto the new chassis, and destroy your old chassis. Destroy means cut up, not just cut the number out.

I've used the compressed air method on engines, a bit of a mess on and not 100% guaranteed to work in my opinion. Method I prefer to use now is, I feed a length of string down the injector hole, as much as I can get into the cylinder. Then wind the engine until the piston is as close to TDC as it will go. This jams the string between piston and valve, the valve can't drop at all now. Obviously, don't lose the end of the string!

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In case you never read post #137: http://www.thejammerstore.com/handheld-gps-jammer-gj02-p-152.html You won't be doing any crazy cool things with it, as this £20 device renders it useless before the vehicle turns a wheel. No, but not for Western's reasons. My thinking is, if they're going to steal my property, I want to give the police every chance to catch them. If they don't know it's got a Tracker on, there's a much better chance of them being caught red-handed.

I was the same, never checked the fuses the previous owner had fitted. Flicked the sidelights on one evening, half the loom behind the clocks lit up. The wire from the switch right down the loom to the fusebox completely melted, knacking a dozen other wires in the loom in the process. You've never seen a seatbox lid and battery leads come off so quick! I checked the fuses, funnily enough the 40amp sidelight fuse never blew. Took a full day rewiring the loom. For the sake of the correct fuse. Also took the time to fit blade fuse holders and swap all the glass fuses onto blades, nice easy job.

Sounds like it's siezed then