cieranc

But still, a Pollack 6 port valve would overcome this, both fuels would be returned to their respective tanks with no dilution. Returning diesel to the oil tank is not necessarily a problem, but putting oil back into the diesel tank could eventually lead to cold start problems.

That's a winch off an overhead gantry crane, as found in workshops, factories etc... Which is why it has a single layer rope, really quite short. It only has to pass from the roof/gantry to the floor a few times through a snatch block. Ours at work has a 4 line pull through the snatch block, and is still only a single layer drum.

Good pics there Ralph, but surely the Scoob is 4WD???

The AA/RAC won't entertain a vehicle that isn't road legal to begin with. A Frame that distance is illegal, and would invalidate the tow car's insurance in a crash. A pre booked MOT must be reasonably local - could you argue in court that 150 miles is local? Either borrow a suitable trailer or pay to get it recovered professionally.

When you fitted the aftermarket gague, did you fit the matched sender unit with it?

!!! Which makes it a HGV. You'll have to test yours at the VOSA Goods Vehicle Testing Station! Plus, you'll need a tacho fitted with a 6 yearly in date, regardless of wether it's private or commercial use. And they'll want to see your 7 plate, which I presume you won't have??? I'd get it changed quick, before you get in bother

I've recently acquired a Eberspacher engine heater from a Sprinter van. It's a small, diesel fired coolant heater with it's own coolant circulation and diesel pumps. From what I've read on other websites about this heater (in particular a camper van website where this is a popular modification), it takes about 15 mins of the heater running to get the coolant from stone cold to 80 degrees. My plan: Install the heater, coolant and diesel pump. Diesel to come from already installed auxilliary tank (veg oil twin tank setup). Install a small car battery (small square type out a little Korean car) alongside the main battery, fed through a split-charge relay. Wire the heater relay onto one of Maplins 2 channel remote control module thingy's. Adapt the vehicle wiring to run the interior fan on the second remote control channel (diodes probably needed to prevent back-feeding the ignition). Then, on a cold morning, I could fall out of bed, click one button of the remote control out of the window, this'll fire the heater up. Have a wash,15 mins later click the other button, power the fan up. Eat my coco pops, 10 mins later, nice warm, de-iced car. Worst case would be the second battery flattening, but as it'll be fed through a split-charge relay it won't pull the main battery down. I'll have to experiment with how long the battery would last with heater and fan going. But best of all, could start up and switch over onto veggy oil almost straight away. I figure the heater running for 15-20 mins will use much less diesel than driving long enough to warm the engine well enough for the veggy oil. What could possibly go wrong with this plan

The same blue grease in BPW hubs?

I never found this, after fitting the Paddock +15mm studs I tried an original wheel on. I blued the studs so could see how far the nuts went on. Torqued up correctly with 2 threads to spare.

Chris, with all due respect I sincerely hope no-one does post a picture up here of where they go!

It's worth a trip to your local ally fabricators, a new tank made to your design may not be as expensive as you might expect.

I've just got hold of an Eberspacher engine heater out of a Sprinter van, it's designed to heat your coolant up and circulate it.

I've only got the printed catalogue, I can post you it after the results are up?

Meant to say, Mich xzl grade 1 (as new/take off/ minimum miles) on a genuine tubeless wolf rim for 85 + vat, top price. You'd probably have to repaint the wheel, unless you like desert sand and olive green.

Right mate, I've bought a lot of stuff off them, direct sales and tender sales, but never through auction. I would recommend PERSONALLY VIEWING EVERYTHING you buy off them. The tyres are all graded, either 3/4 worn or good as new. Be aware there's VAT to pay on their prices, and they won't take credit cards, its cash, cleared cheque or debit card only. I've got about 16 bids in the sale ending today, but as said above, view the lots personally, take a notebook and camera so you don't forget whats good and bad, and set your budget. They are fair people to deal with and there's some fantastic bargains to be had at their sales. But never buy blind or you may be disappointed. I personally think their Mich XZL's on wolf rim deals are brilliant value for money.

Or a little one, this one is mine: http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/index.php?topic=376158.0

More likely an opportunist theft - please all keep an eye out for this trailer and 110. It could be anywhere in the north of the country by now.

Taken to PM

The second photo of the 110 looks like Stainton Grove Ind Est. I'll keep an eye out for the 110 and Trailer.

**** mate, that made me look out the window. I'm at Gainford 1.5 miles down the road, and thankfully so is my 110 and selection of trailers! I'ts unlikely they'll show up locally, but I'll keep an eye out. Bejeezuz, I was just having a pint in the Carlbury Arms tonight! Do you mind me asking which car park it was taken from? I guess you're staying at the George?

Does it need to be PAS43 compliant? If so, some of those listed above are not suitable.

X 4, can't fault it for the money.

Take them to a specialist to get them re-conned.

I'd be very keen to see exactly how the pump is upgraded, weather it is actually upgraded or just tweeked. And moreso, how much power increase you get with this kit and a standard pump, how much of the extra power comes from the pump itself.

That is a lot of money for an extra 21 hp and 65 foot pounds of torque. I'm sure a decent intercooler and pump tweek could get as much as 15 hp for a start.